Cruising on the River Seine

River cruising on the Seine combines convenience with art and culture

By Bobbie Green

Paris, “City of Lights” provides the perfect launch site for your adventure. The city is definitely the spot for a pre-cruise stay. Those who have visited Paris before always welcome the chance to go again. One never gets tired of the happenings along the Champs Elysee and my favorite, boating on the Seine at night watching the people lining the shore and the lighting of the Eiffel Tower turning the intimidating metal giant into a magnificent work of art. To me, this is where the legendary Romance of Paris begins. Of course your art & culture will start with the museums, probably the Louvre. How fun it was to see all the places mentioned in the DaVinci Code. Paris has a museum for every facet of life, even a sewer museum; truly there is a museum for everyone.

We boarded the Viking Seine in Paris for our 9-day trip to La Havre, stopping at Conflans , Rouen, Honfleur, Giverny. What a treat to visit all of these towns along the way without having to change hotels. Our category B cabin was pretty and spacious. To my astonishment the showers in the bathrooms on this particular ship were the smallest I have ever encountered on a ship. Our daily fights with the shower curtain became a humorous conversation piece aboard the ship. They were not that small on other Viking ships I have been on.

Cruising through the French country side is as beautiful as one can imagine. It is easy to see how the artist gets their inspiration. Unbelievably, Monet felt he had to construct his own garden settings to be used in his paintings. Admittedly he did a fantastic job, maybe because of the beautiful landscape that already surrounded him in Giverny and it did give him some creative control over the lighting. There was no doubt his home was the home of an artist, as each room was devoted to many shades of one color every room exhibits a different color. The gardens are kept up by the Claude Monet Foundation, inaugurated in 1980, as he did them and open to tourist.

In Rouen visitors enjoy the medieval town and see the setting of the execution of Joan of Arc because according to history she refused to stop wearing men’s clothing i.e. army uniform. The market square where she was burned at the stake is now alive with tourist, sidewalk vendors and café’s. I found the privately owned museum of Joan of Arc most interesting to me not because of its content, but because of the building it is housed in. It is very old and the tour starts in the cellar with the stone walls all around. You gradually work your way up to the wooden floors that I was sure would not hold me creaking and bending as I was winding my way around the display cases and the scenes depicted with life size models. I felt like I was lost in a medieval castle and it was quite intriguing. Also in Rouen, on Big Clock Street, one can see the giant clock, with a single hand, built by the city in 1525 perched over the archway and still keeping time. Since clocks with a second hand were not introduced until the 16th century AM and PM is tracked by a large silver and black ball, black being PM silver AM. The old Merri-go-rounds are still in play and like the old clock; the artistry of the people from this country is showing everywhere.

The most appealing country side to me was around the town of Les Andelys and Vernon, lush and green with many varieties of trees. The small village of Les Andelys sits peacefully along the rivers edge under the shadow of Chateau Gailard sitting high on a hill above the town. The strong hold was built by Richard the Lion Heart in the 12th century. The serenity there matches the beauty.

Honfleur is an important fishing town and shipping port. The country side homes have thatched roofs that last for 50 years. Flowers are grown along the top roof line to draw the moisture from the thatch adding to the quaintness. Honfleur is home to France’s oldest wooden church, built hurriedly in the 16th century by shipwrights wanting a place to worship. One can see the red pointed half timber house that was home to de Meure du Peintre artist and tutor to Caude Monet. Half timber houses so popular in Europe, yet they were an art in themselves. First the timber is soaked in salt brine for seven years and then air dried for another 10 years the result is no termites and the houses are still standing after 500 years. This was definitely not the mobile society we have today, but there artistry told us much about their culture and their history is still with us today.

At this point in our trip everyone was getting anxious to get to the beaches at Normandy another reason the passengers aboard had chosen this itinerary. We go from the ship to the beaches by motor coach. The first stop is the D-Day museum. It looked to be an interesting account of history but the little museum was so crowded I could not stand to stay inside the building. Apparently they do not have fire safety codes there. I asked when a less crowded time of year would be. The attendant replied “This is a good day, it gets worse”. Even without a good look at the museum the experience of the trip to different beaches Omaha, Utah etc. seeing where it happened and what is still left to remind us is awe-inspiring. Everyone there was touched in some manner. The visit to the Normandy American Cemetery and seeing the rows upon rows of white crosses really put things into perspective; We are humbled at this sight, the cost of freedom is high, and we are full of admiration for those who kept it for us. The land for the cemetery was given to the U.S. tax free by the French Government. The beautiful grounds and monuments are kept up by and at the expense of the U.S. Government. The tour we were offered from Viking even took us up the cliff’s, where we could walk into the German bunkers and see the shell holes in the ground. Even here we find art and culture; the striking monuments that have been erected greet visitors with grace and beauty honed by fine artist.

On board the Viking Seine we had all the amenities a first class cruise line has to offer, they are on Conde Nast Traverlers “Gold List” and Travel & Leisure’s “World’s Best” list. Viking ships have beautiful public rooms and deck area. The Viking Seine has an open air walk-around promenade deck, unusual for river vessels. I found the dinning room staff on this particular vessel not up to par with other Viking ships I have been on, they seemed short staffed and overworked and betting on their good reputation and my past experience with them, I would sail on Viking lines again after checking first on the size of the shower of the purposed vessel. The on-board language on all Viking itineraries is English.

The growth in the popularity of river cruising tells me they are offering what the savvy traveler is looking for. Multiple itinerary choices, never-ending scenery, with the convenience and comfort of a floating hotel, and vessels intimate enough to get to know your fellow passengers. Art and the native culture is found at each stop along your route and shown to you by local tour guides.

IF YOU GO

Viking River Cruises

877-668-4546

Vikingrivercruises.com

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