HELL’S CANYON RIVER ADVENTURE
Hells Canyon River Adventure
By Bobbie Green
Eagerly we stepped into the jet boat, looking forward to our adventure upstream on the free-flowing Snake River through the deepest gorge in North America, Hells Canyon, bordering Oregon and Idaho. Early explorers referred to the gorge as Box Canyon or the Snake River Canyon, but it is referenced as Hells Canyon in books and journals as early as 1895. Fortunately for us, when congress designated this area a National Recreation Area in 1975 they also allowed for power boats to be used, leaving this area accessible to those of us not able to hike or paddle a boat in.
Admittedly I had visions of shear cliff walls lining the river edge like Lake Powell. Instead there is a fair amount of beach area on the banks and the mountains rise with a slower ascend, allowing better observation of various geological structures in the terrain and wild life. Our jet boat captain is also our guide. His family owns the fishing lodge where we will be eating our lunch 80 miles into the canyon. He has been piloting boats on this river since he was 11 years old. We were happy to hear this information since the forest service advises only people who know this river should pilot their own boats here and they must have a permit.
As we entered Hells Canyon the land roads end. Anyplace in the canyon could now only be reached by boat, helicopter, horseback there are hiking trails in some parts of the canyon. Near the entrance to the canyon before the designated National Recreation Area are river front lots, some still for sale, with an interesting array of homes built on them, however one must be of a hardy nature to have a place here. Accessible only by boat, all wood for building, food and water must be hauled in. There is no electricity and no sewage systems. Outhouses are plainly visible behind the homes. There is an American flag flying from each property, peace and solitude reign here, with the exception of a daily mail boat. Soon the houses stop and pristine wilderness surround the rugged river with only a small forest station midway.
Our trip up river was slow with informative narration along the way, while keeping a keen eye out for wildlife. Bighorn sheep were once plentiful in the canyon and a source of food, clothing and tools for the Nez Perce Indians, the Bighorn died out after domestic sheep were brought in by the early settlers. Since 1971 wildlife biologist, parts of FNAWS have been transplanting bighorn back in the canyon as part of their conservation efforts. Some of the other wildlife to be seen are wild turkey, deer, elk and black bear. Various birds like osprey, Canada geese, mallard ducks, magpies, blue herons and eagles if you’re lucky. The remains of the old 1900’s copper mining town Eureka can be seen on the hillside.
Amazingly we skimmed over the waters surface including class I, II and III rapids. Most of the passengers were pleased by the absence of feeling the rapids; I however missed the thrill of the bouncing. We passed by Mountain Sheep Rapids we could see the iron rings low on the mountain wall where the paddlewheel ships of the 1900’s needed the rope lines to help pull them selves up through the rapids as they did not have enough power. The Paddlewheel Imnaha built by the mining company to haul their product and supplies, wrecked on its 13th run over the rapids using the pulls. A boat hand threw the line over the uphill side of the boat instead of the downhill side and it caught in the paddlewheel leaving the ship steering powerless. She was turned on her side and finally rested sideways in a narrow part of the river as the rapids bashed her. All the people aboard were saved but the animals were not. She is still there in 65 feet of water. We saw evidence left by the prehistoric and historic peoples of long ago in the nature of petroglyphs and pictographs on the rocks.
When we reached the Kirby Creek Lodge we were treated to a bountiful home cooked spread and treated as special guest. Fisherman and river rafter come and stay overnight at the lodge. This lodge is still situated in the wilderness of the canyon with supplies brought by boat and outhouses for public use, indoor plumbing for overnight guest. The guest rooms are very basic and shared baths are down the hall. This is the only lodge on private land in Hells Canyon it was grandfathered in when the National Recreation area was designated. Some guests come to ride the class IV and V rapids in the 27 miles between Kirby Creek Lodge and Hells Canyon Dam, the only part of the canyon we did not travel through.
On the way back, with the exception of a few stops to point out wildlife or pictographs our jet boat pilot let her rip. This was exciting. The whole trip was an experience to remember and an easy way, maybe, the only way, for some tourist young and old to answer a call of the wild.
If You Go
Hells Canyon NRA Snake River Office
509-426-3916
Snake River Adventures/ Kirby Lodge
800-262-8874
Columbia River Itinerary