A Visit to the Pocono Mountains
Posted by Bobbie Green, under Journal Articles
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Out of Africa
Posted by Bobbie Green, under Journal Articles
Out of Africa
By Bobbie Green
Seal splash no, Tiger Splash—Huh! Watching wild tigers at play swimming and splashing in a pool with humans—not professional animal trainers, is one among many amazing sites one can see and experience at the “Out of Africa Wild Animal Park.”
Out of Africa Park located in Camp Verde, Arizona is where the wild things share their feelings with staff and visitors. This wild animal park cannot be compared to others in the nation. The animal habitat is the life and blood of owner Dean Harrison.
Harrison and his wife Prayeri began sharing their wide-ranging animal experiences with the public in 1988. Since then, their park has grown and flourished. It is home to over 100 species of animals, most of them rescued from closing zoo’s, parks or personal ownership. In my opinion these lucky animals have arrived at animal heaven.
Here they are housed in a natural habitat setting with plenty of room to roam. Although many visitors tour the park daily one never feels they are in a zoo. This is a shared experience– the animals are also viewing you. They are friends with all of the staff members therefore; they are your friends also. They do not hide from view, but come out to see you. We ate lunch sitting at a bench on one side of a chain link fence with lions just on the other side, one lying down close to the fence happily watching us, maybe waiting for a bit to be tossed to him. Unless the animals are sleeping, when a staff member and especially Harrison, the owner, comes by their habitat, they come running to greet him. They want him to come in and play, this is not the norm in wild animal parks and why Out of Africa is so special. It was a real treat to be riding with Harrison in his jeep around the park and see how all the animals treated him with affection, he had no food treats in his pockets, but the affection was returned. 
Visitors may walk around the park on their own, or they may take an African Bush Safari, where the driver/guide makes sure you have a personal encounter with a zebra, giraffe or ostrich. The animals know everyone on this bus has a treat for them and they want it– great fun for kids and adults. There are many beautiful wild animal species and unique animal experiences to be enjoyed by visitors to the park.
There is a large pool with a chain link fence around it and a 2000 seat covered seating area outside the fence. This is where the Tiger Splash, Bear Splash and Tiger Feeding take place. The tigers and the bears seem to look forward to their fun time in the pool. These animals are not trained to perform tricks. Each day different tigers and bears and different staff members with toys come to the pool. The animals want to play with the toys and they are friendly with the staff members who bring the toys. The tigers leap high into the air as they dive into the pool. The heavy bears seem to plop into the pool. It is an amazing to watch. After the tiger splash is over visitors may feed the tigers who eagerly await the stick they hold with food on the end. This seemed to be another special highlight for the visitors.
Visitors also get a close encounter with reptiles. At the giant snake show each snake is brought out and visitors are given a brief history of the animal. Afterwards visitor are invited inside the gate to pet the giant snakes-Pythons, Anacondas and Boas. This is one female did not participate in the reptile show, those who did were thrilled—I still do not know why.
One of the visitor’s favorite is Boom-Boom, the Southern White Rhino. I was quite amazed at his habitat area, large, yet not very confining. I questioned his getting out of it and was told no, he could not; he loves where he lives and would not want escape.
I completely believe that the animals here are quite happy with their home and would not want to leave it.
Out of Africa is quite a unique place to visit and one that should be high on your bucket list. If you go, choose one of the tours and walk around on your own, watch for Harrison,
he is always around, don’t miss a chance to chat with him. He loves to tell you about his animal friends.
Travelers will find lodging in Camp Verde or near by Sedona, Arizona.
IF YOU GO
Out of Africa
Open daily
928-567-2840
Days Inn & Suites
Camp Verde, AZ
928-567-3700
Return to Playa del Carmen
Posted by clayton, under Journal Articles
Return to Playa del Carmen
by Ron Kapon
In May 2007 I was the guest of Fernando Garcia Zalvidea, the owner of the Royal Resorts in Cancun & Playa del Carmen. Cancun reminded me of Miami Beach and that is where the international airport is located. Be aware that it is the second busiest Mexico airport after Mexico City. It always seems to have logjams getting through passport control and customs. They have added another runway and terminal but all that seems to do is increase the wait.
On the positive side I flew on Jet Blue, for only the second time, non-stop in under 4 hours.There’s a beautiful new terminal at JFK with a large food court. The check in was easy and my flight left on time. There was much more legroom and wider seats than I expected since the plane is all coach. The individual TV consoles had movies and TV shows and made the time go even quicker. Don’t forget the famous snack basket. I would fly Jet Blue again in a heartbeat.
First and foremost, let’s get the geography lesson out of the way; Quintana Roo is a state in Southeastern Mexico on the eastern part of the Yucatan Peninsula with a population of 1,135,000 million. The Caribbean Sea is to the east and the nation of Belize is to the south. If the name Quintana Roo is not familiar, look at some of the cities contained within the state: Cancun, Playa del Carmen and the island of Cozumel enhanced further by the Mayan Ruins at Tulum, Coba and Xcaret
Less than an hour south of Cancun you will discover the Mexican Mayan Riviera where Playa (del Carmen) was established by Europeans from Germany, Switzerland and, especially, Italy. Playa del Carmen is named for Our Lady of Mount Carmel, the patron saint of Cancun. In the Mayan time (300-600 AD) Playa del Carmen was called Xaman-Ha (waters from the north) and was the departure place for the Mayans who would cross over to the island of Cozumel (Cutzamil) to worship the Goddess Ixchel and bring her offerings. The first modern village was created in the beginning of the 20th Century. The first tourists to discover it were Europeans who found Playa to be a tranquil place. The lifestyle is slower with clean white sand beaches where one can find beautiful surf, coral reefs, scuba diving, jet skiing, windsurfing as well as a 20 block pedestrian street named Fifth Avenue (Quinta Avenida) with a mixture of shops, bars and restaurants (mainly Italian & Mexican, but with many other specialty cuisines). With a population of about 250,000 there are fewer large hotels and the atmosphere is definitely more laid back. The Playa del Carmen government has attempted to retain Playa del Carmen’s charm as a small fishing village and artists’ colony, without it becoming as large and metropolitan as Cancún. To this end, the city passed an ordinance limiting buildings to four stories.
The island of Cozumel can be reached from the ferry dock in Playa in less than 45 minutes. It is where the cruise ships dock. The snorkeling and scuba are great as they are near the Great Maya Reef which passes between the island and Playa. It is the second largest coral reef in the world including the countries of Belize, Guatemala, Honduras & Mexico (Australia’s Barrier Reef is larger). That same 45 minutes will take you to Tulum by road, which reveals the Mayan period of 1200-1520 AD and really must be seen to be appreciated. There are truly great photo ops here. It draws over 2 million visitors a year (the most visited of Mexico’s archaeological sites) and was actually “rediscovered” in 1842 by archeologists. Hurricane Emily hit the Rivera del Maya and did minimal damage (mostly broken windows and roofs) in July 2005. In October of the same year Hurricane Wilma hit Cancun very hard, causing a lot of damage but no life was lost. It is worth spending, as I did, an afternoon and/or evening at Xcaret, which is about 15 minutes from the hotel. For $60 you can get an all day pass or, for $43, just experience the two-hour evening extravaganza (the history of Mexico with over 200 performers). I spent 3 hours walking through the Mayan Village, along the jungle trail, through wildlife, underground rivers & caves (called Cenotes, and they are everywhere), through an Aquarium and several other shows. Bring your comfortable walking shoes and do the same.
This time I was invited to the grand opening of El Taj Oceanfront Hotel, one of 4 almost adjacent properties under the Condo Hotels banner. There is the Porto Playa luxury condos with a soon to open deli, a gym (one of the owners also developed Equinox fitness center), two pools and two Jacuzzis where lush tropical gardens surround waterfalls. Villas Sacbe is an intimate boutique condo hotel with a Jacuzzi that flows into a plunge pool. Maya Villa is a unique condo hotel with a jade colored Gecko shaped mosaic and glass tile pool topped off by a 40-foot waterfall cascading into the pool. All the artwork is Mayan. The slightly older (2008) El Taj Beachfront was my quiet refuge for writing with a Bali & Tahitian theme. There are lily ponds and a black mosaic infinity pool and Jacuzzi. Across the street is the brand new El Taj Oceanfront directly on the beach with a world-class Indigo restaurant that just opened. The beach chairs, mattresses and lounges were the most comfortable I had ever used; I was so relaxed it was hard to stay awake. A giant movie screen that will be seen from the beach will soon join the obligatory pool. Developer Jack Perlman and his wife selected all the furnishings during visits to Bali and Tahiti. All the 57 rooms are sold as condos (not time shares or fractional ownership) with prices from $400,000 for the one bedroom I occupied to $1.500,000 for a three-bedroom penthouse with private grill and Jacuzzi, facing the water. There are full kitchens in all the condos, plus flat screen TV in both the bedroom and living room. The owners may choose to rent out their condo when not in use and mine would have ranged from $235 to $445, depending on the season. Like it or not the bed was the hardest, most comfortable I have ever slept on. I actually looked forward to going to bed every night. There was accessible wireless in the room and throughout the condo, including the beach.
Who is Jack Perlman? A 54 year old New York City resident (although he now spends more time in Playa) who previously worked in marketing for Modell Sporting Goods and the New York Yankees. Rudolph Giuliani, a huge Yankees fan, was Mayor during that time. Jack arrived in Playa by accident when trying to escape the prefabricated environment of Cancun, which led him to Cozumel, where he missed the ferry. Rather than wait 4 hours for the next one he walked along the beach and found a hotel for $7 a night (it was 17 years ago). Playa had only two streets and there was no highway from the Cancun airport but it was an ideal place for Jack to begin his second career in developing properties. His first was Villas Sacbe where he implemented the “Americanization” of the real estate processes. Perlman created a legal environment in which the North American buyer can feel secure investing in Mexico. He believed in the curve concept that allows the breeze to flow through his buildings and optimize air circulation. There are no flat walls or pointed corners in any of his buildings. That concept also protects the buildings from the strong winds that lash the region. “If we want our projects to grow, the growth must occur in harmony with the community we’re living in.”
By the way, Jack lives on the property in El Taj Beachfront and was working from the time I was awake until the time I went to bed. Playa del Carmen, Condo Hotels and Jack Perlman go hand in hand with success.
For More Information-
www.visitmexico/playadelcarmen
The Pony Express & St. Joseph, Missouri
Posted by clayton, under Journal Articles
The Pony Express & St. Joseph, MissouriBy Ron Kapon I have visited and written about Missouri several times in the past few years. Kansas City, Lake of the Ozarks and Branson. But St. Joseph? An invitation from The Beenders Walker Group, the public relations agency that hosted me at the Lake of the Ozarks, almost went into the trash bin until I saw the magic words, “Come spend three days in St. Joseph celebrating the 150th anniversary of the Pony Express.” I was hooked and off I went, cowboy boots, saddlebags and hat.So how long did the Pony Express last? Who was the youngest rider? Where did it start and where did it end? How many horses did they use? How long did each rider ride and where did they rest? What about the weather, Indians and robbers? How much did it cost? All the answers to follow.First some facts- St. Joseph is 35 miles north of the Kansas City International Airport and has a population of 86,000. It was founded, as a city, in 1843 by Joseph Robidoux, who arrived in the area in 1826 to open a trading post. If “everything is up to date in Kansas City,” what about St. Jo? What is there to see and do? You can reach Kansas City in three hours plus from LaGuardia airport. My home for three nights was the Drury Inn & Suites, a privately owned, Midwest- centered chain of affordable hotels. Free hot breakfast and evening beverage and snacks (alcoholic beverages included and enough food to allow many people to skip dinner). There are free long distance calls, free Wi-Fi, popcorn popping 24 hours, an indoor pool and fitness center.Recently named one of America’s “Top 10 Western Cities” by True West Magazine, St. Joseph is where the Pony Express began on April 3, 1860. Jesse James was killed on the very same date, exactly 22 years later. In 1804 Lewis & Clark camped on the banks of the Missouri River near what is now downtown St. Joseph before continuing on their expedition across America. Jesse James moved to St. Joseph in 1881 as Tom Howard. The $10,000 reward was too much to resist for gang member Bob Ford, who shot and killed him. In 1889 Aunt Jemima pancake flour, invented in St. Joseph, was the first self-rising flour for pancakes and the first ready-mix food ever to be introduced commercially. Long-time CBS-TV News anchorman Walter Cronkite was born in St. Joseph in November 1916. Portions of the Academy Award-winning 1973 movie Paper Moon were filmed in various locations in downtown. Movie stars Jane Wyman and Ruth Warrick, musician Eminem, and jazz musician Coleman Hawkins are from St. Joseph.The Pony Express lasted from April 1860 until October 1861. Most people I asked guessed 5-10 years (me included). There were 80 riders paid $100-$125 a month and it is rumored that the youngest rider was 11 years old; the oldest in his mid-40s. It started in St. Joseph and ended in Sacramento, a total of 1,840 miles. The people in California say it started there and ended in St. Jo. The cost of a letter sent by Pony Express started at $5 and at the end of its run it was down to $1. Research showed that only two mail pouches were lost. The riders carried a Navy Colt Model 1851 and believed a fast horse could outrun trouble. There were originally 400 horses purchased and each rider rode an average of 75 miles per day. There were 157 relay stations each 5-20 miles apart where the riders would change horses, eat and sleep. Since the riders were recruited from their hometowns they tended to ride from and back to their home base. Weather, Indian raids and robberies were all part of the hazards.Where to eatJ.C. Wyatt Home- The owner and chef are both transplanted New Yorkers. Built in 1891 it is a Victorian era home restored to seat 40 people for dinner. It is by reservation only (no walk-ins) as the chef buys fresh ingredients when planning each meal. The upstairs is a museum of the era homes. Definitely reserve for their cooking classes.Galvin’s Dinner House- Fried chicken is their specialty and it is “Finger Licking Good.” Try the homemade dinner rolls, mashed potatoes and sweet corn.Boudreaux’s- The owners are originally from Louisiana & LSU paraphernalia is everywhere. Seafood Cajun/Creole style is their specialty.Bandana’s BBQ Restaurant- Next door to Druhy Inn. Try the BBQ beans, pork and beef platter.What to seeYour first stop should be the visitor’s center next door to the library. There are murals and interactive kiosk tables. I especially liked the $1 library books on sale.Patee House & Jesse James Home Museum- Formerly a hotel. In 1958 it was designated a National Historic Landmark. It was the headquarters for the Pony Express. True West Magazine named it one of America’s top 10 Western Museums. I rode the “Wild Thing” Carousel. The adjacent Jesse James Museum has artifacts from his grave and the story of his death in 1882.Pony Express Museum- The site where the overland mail service began on April 3, 1860.Missouri Valley Trust Bank Building- A former bank with ornate carved oak woodwork, stained glass, window teller cages and a walk-in vault.Mount Mora Cemetery- Established in 1851, it is the burial grounds for three governors and two Pony Express riders.Missouri Western State University- If you are a football fan this is the new home of the Kansas City Chiefs Summer Camp.Tobiason’s Stained Glass- Rick and Terri Rader operate this shop for commissioned glass artwork and restoration. I took a basic class and produced a stained glass plaque (with help).Albrecht-Kemper Museum- Features 18th, 19th & 20th Century artwork.Glore Psychiatric Museum- Think Friday The 13th meets Frankenstein. Replicas, artifacts, documents and photos as to the way mental illness was treated for the past 7,500 years. The current state-operated psychiatric hospital is nearby but there are no tours.Remington Nature Center- A full-sized replica of a 10,000-year-old woolly mammoth greets you. Lots of Native American artifacts.Parkway System- 26 miles through parks and past homes. It was developed in 1918 and placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1995. Some of the 150 homes directly on the Parkway have been restored to their 19th Century elegance. There are still many available as “Fixer Uppers.” The prices are so low.Krug Park- 162-acre park with a natural-bowl amphitheater rose garden, gazebo and sculpture garden. During the holiday season it becomes Holiday Park with lights, displays and elves.Pony Express Monument- Bronze statue of a Pony Express rider. Dedicated in 1940.Twin Spires- Former Immaculate Conception/Queen of Apostles Church now open to the public for weddings, receptions etc.There were a few sites I did not get a chance to visit but locals highly recommend them- Robidoux Row Museum- A series of connected houses built in the 1840’s and restored to include Robidoux’s personal quarters.The Wyeth-Tootle Museum- An 1879 Gothic building, which includes exhibits dealing with 19th Century St. Joseph.Amelia Earhart Birthplace Museum- (in nearby Atchison Kansas)- Gothic revival cottage built in 1861, which includes costumes from the 2009 movie Amelia.Terrible’s Frontier Casino- I would think they could come up with a better name for a casino.I was very pleasantly surprised to find all that history in a city the size of St. Joseph. That is what I am discovering about these United States. There is a lot to see and do in so many places close to home.For More Information:www.stjomo.comwww.druryhotels.comwww.ponyexpressjessejames.comwww.jcwyatt.netwww.galvinstjoe.comwww.heyboudreaux.comwww.ponyexpress.orgwww.stjosephmuseum.orgwww.mountmora.orgwww.missouriwestern.eduwww.albrecht-kemper.orgwww.stjoenaturecenter.infowww.twinsspirecathedral.comwww.ameliaearhartmuseum.orgwww.terriblestjoefrontier.comwww.tobiasonstudio.comwww.robidouxrow.com |
Beautiful Del Mar, California
Posted by clayton, under Journal Articles
Del Mar by the Sea
By Bobbie Green
Sitting on a bench in Seagrove Park, in Del Mar, California and looking down toward the white capped waves, breaking on the azure sea, dotted with bobbing surfer’s, my mind can compare its beauty to sitting atop a hill, on the Isle of Capri and gazing at the azure sea dotted with bobbing small boats.
This small picturesque town of Del Mar, that literally means “By the Sea” is located just 20 minutes north of downtown San Diego, Del Mar has become a tourist attraction itself because of its coastal beauty.
Beginning in 1882 Theodore Loop discovered what he called “the most attractive place on the entire coast” while working for the Southern California railroad. He built a tent city on the beach and his wife named it Del Mar from the poem titled “The Flight on Paseo Del Mar. The same year Jacob Taylor built a hotel and things progressed from then on.
In 1900’s South Coast Land Company built a new hotel called the Stratford Inn, which became a magnet for the Hollywood stars. Today the L’Aubenge Hotel sits on the old Stratford Property. Del Mar’s famous racetrack opened in 1937 with Bing Crosby, one of the founders, there to greet fans on opening day as president of the Thoroughbred Club. 2010 horseracing season at the track this year will be July 21 through September 8th.
The Stratford Hotel and the racetrack not only brought in the Hollywood crowd, but also many wealthy people began to come here and enjoy the natural beauty of the coastline. And it remains so today.
Our hotel was a few miles inland, the Grand Del Mar, designed with the more affluent in mind. The resort sits on acres of beautiful grounds and is inclusive of a Tom Fazio-designed golf course. The lavish old-world Mediterranean style resort is premier elegance. Pricey as it may be, if compared to a trip to Europe, a week at this resort with no long air flights, airports and pricey air fares to contend with could be the answer to your special celebration or vacation dilemma.
The materials used to create this atmosphere are the finest. They incorporated 30 types of imported stone, 16 different species of wood. There is polished marble everywhere.
Stylishness and grace though out the property from the guest rooms to the pool with under water music. Impeccable yet very friendly service adds to the guest enjoyment. The restaurants are a compliment to the resort. Among the five restaurants on the property is the renowned, award winning Addison’s California’s only Five-Star/Five Diamond restaurant. It is located on the second floor above the Golf Club, not in the hotel itself. Guests are transported to dinner at Addison’s via a chauffeured Mercedes. At the Amays Restaurant, located within the hotel itself, I cannot say enough about the Sea bass that is so expertly prepared. 
The Del Mar area has many golf courses and the Grand does not forget you golfers. The Fazio course at the Grand is designed for all levels of golfers. The back nine are a challenge to the pro’s and the many strategically placed tees throughout the course allow for the less gifted to enjoy their round. Shawn Cox the golf director likes to boast of their human touch feature. All resort players receive caddie services. These professionals read the greens, give distances and help the player with their game—they have found this to be a very popular amenity. Stays at the resort may include a golf package. They also offer lessons with video feedback and hold a summer golf camp for children. Golfing here is exclusively for guest, members and villa owner.
The spa and tennis court facilities are everything you would expect in a five star resort. The staff is the top of their field with many years experience. Many off site activities are available. My spouse enjoyed a pleasant informative 90 minute hike through the undeveloped part of Los Penasquitos Canyon Preserve with Grand Del Mars onsite naturalist.
In the mist of this countryside luxury you are only a few miles away from the beautiful beaches and the village of Del Mar with its many boutiques and restaurants to explore. Do make a stop at the trendy Del Mar Plaza– the top level gives a panoramic view of the coastline from attractive relaxing surroundings. This voice of experience urges you to check out all the great restaurants in the Plaza, before choosing one to experience.
The 2010 Summer Solstice will be celebrated in Del Mar on June 17 at the Powerhouse Park. The Farmers Market is held on the South side of the Village on Saturday’s 1-4p.
The Grand Del Mar Resort helped make my time in beautiful Del Mar really grand.
IF YOU GO
Del Mar Race Track
858-755-1141
Del Mar Visitors Info
858-755-9313
The Grand Del Mar
858-314-2000
The Stratford Inn
Best Western
858-794-6838
Albany,NY-Dysfunctional Legislature, Functional City
Posted by clayton, under Journal Articles
Albany, NY- Dysfunctional Legislature, Functional CityBy Ron Kapon Albany is the capital of New York State and is about 140 miles north of the city. The City of Albany sits on the Hudson River and has a population of a bit fewer than 100,000 (Albany County has 300,000). There are about1.2 million people in the metro area that includes the cities of Troy, Schenectady, Rensselaer and Saratoga Springs. Albany was founded as a Dutch trading post in 1614. In 1664 the English renamed the town Albany, in honor of James II, Duke of Albany. In 1754 representatives of seven British North American colonies met in the Albany Congress. Benjamin Franklin of Pennsylvania presented the Albany Plan, the first formal proposal to unite the colonies. Although it was never adopted by Parliament, it was an important precursor to the United States Constitution. In 1797, the state capital of New York was moved permanently to Albany. The State Capitol building was begun in 1867 and finished in 1899 when Governor Theodore Roosevelt declared the building completed. Albany’s location on the Hudson River made it a center of transportation from the outset. In 1807 Robert Fulton initiated a steamboat line from New York to Albany. On October 26, 1825 the Erie Canal was completed, forming a continuous water route from the Great Lakes to the city of New York. This allowed Albany to control the trade along the canal. Erastus Corning 2nd served as mayor of Albany from 1942 until 1983, the longest single mayoral term of any major city in the United States.What To See-New York State Capital- Built in 1899 and is 1 of 10 US capitals without a dome. In 1979 it was made a National Historic Landmark for its Romanesque and Renaissance revival style architecture. Check out the Million Dollar staircase and the 166-foot long exterior staircase (closed for security reasons). There is a subterranean retail arcade and part of Governor Rockefeller’s modern art collection. The Nelson A. Rockefeller Empire State Plaza was built between 1965 and 1978 and replaced 98 acres of 19th century buildings.The Erastus Corning Tower has free admission to its 42nd floor observatory. “On a clear day one can see forever.” The performing art space “The Egg” (that is the shape) as well as legislative & state agency office buildings are part of the plaza.The New York State Museum is a research-backed institution attached to the south side of the Empire State Plaza, facing onto the plaza and towards the New York State Capitol. The museum houses art, artifacts (prehistoric and historic) that reflect New York State’s cultural, natural, and geological development. It is the nation’s oldest and largest state museum. The same building also houses the New York State Archives and New York State Library.The Albany Institute of History & Art is a museum dedicated to collecting, preserving, interpreting and promoting interest in the history, art, and culture of Albany and the Upper Hudson Valley region. Founded in 1791, it is among the oldest museums in the United States. AIHA has over 20,000 objects in its permanent collections, including 1,600 paintings, 1,100 drawings, 4,000 prints, 600 sculptures, 500 pieces of furniture and 1,200 ceramic works. I got a back of the house look at their 4,000-piece clothing and accessories collections.US Albany Heritage Exhibit is located at the Albany Convention & Visitors Bureau offices. Five ships of the US Navy have carried the name Albany. The latest, built in 1990, is an attack submarine.NYS Military Museum began in 1863 and in 2001 moved to their new location in Saratoga Springs. The mission of the museum and research center is to preserve, interpret and disseminate the story, history and records of New York State’s military forces and veterans.Palace Theatre where the symphony orchestra and ballet perform.Lark Street Neighborhood filled with brownstone, boutiques, ethnic restaurants and bars. First Friday features specials at galleries, shops and restaurants.Albany City Hall is a Romanesque Revival Building next to the Empire State Plaza.The Capital Repertory Theatre show classic and new plays. They were the beneficiaries of the Albany Chef’s Food & Wine Festival (more later).St. Peter’s Episcopal Church is a National Historic Landmark and became Episcopal in 1789.Schuyler Mansion State Historic Site is a restored 18th Century Georgian style brick mansion overlooking the Hudson River. Alexander Hamilton was married here.The real reason I visited Albany was to attend the Inaugural Albany Chefs’ Food & Wine Festival. When the forecast predicted snow I decided not to drive but opted to take Amtrak. The senior rate of $72 round trip was probably what I would have paid in gas and toll and I did not have to worry about icy roads. In 2 1/2 hours I was at the Albany/Rensselaer train station, just a half mile across the Hudson River from my downtown hotel- Hampton Inn & Suites. Everything in Albany was an easy walk from my hotel, except it was up a hill to the festival headquarters, The Albany Crowne Plaza. I had a few hours to relax and use the Hampton’s Relaxation Room. One can rent the room with its sauna, steam room, massage chair & tanning bed. I skipped the tanning bed but sure felt relaxed after an hour in the room, which was located next to the fitness center. I stopped in at the Albany Wine Bar & Bistro on Lark in the heart of the booming nightlife area. Worth a visit.It was time for one of two “A Taste of Albany” food & wine tastings (the second one was the following day with different restaurants participating). I was impressed with the quality of the food offerings and the fact that most tables were manned by owner/chefs. There was plenty of room to move around and talk to the wine & food people. My only suggestion was to have another table for wine glasses & arrange to pick up the used food plates in a more orderly manner. Over 800 guests attended the two-day event, which resulted in a $37,000 donation to the Capital Repertory Theatre. At The Crowne Plaza Ballroom, all food, wine and spirits were donated. Empire Merchants North was the Festival’s wine & spirit sponsor. I was also amazed that the two tastings only cost $50, which also included seminars by Master of Wine Jennifer Simonette-Bryan of Remy USA, the Food Network’s David Britton & Chef Yono Purnomo. Yono, wife Donna & son Dominick were the main forces behind the whole weekend. I had dinner with them at their restaurant, Yono’s, located in my hotel the Hampton Inn & Suites. The weekend concluded with the Chef’s Grand Dinner & Wine Auction. 7 different chefs prepared this 7-course dinner. Might I suggest next year that they continue serving during the one hour wine auction? I left at 11PM (started at 6:30PM) & they still had two courses to serve.After breakfast on Sunday I returned by Amtrak to NYC. When someone mentions Albany to me I’ll tell them there are two different Albany’s; where our dysfunctional legislatures meet and the functional city of Albany. Come visit the latter.For More Information- www.HamptonInn.Hilton.com/Albany Ron Kapon |
Portsmouth New Hampshire & Wentworth by the Sea
Posted by clayton, under Journal Articles
Portsmouth New Hampshire & Wentworth by the SeaBy Ron Kapon Native Americans of the Abenaki tribe were the original inhabitants of the territory later named New Hampshire. The first settlement began in 1623 and was named Strawberry Banke for the wild strawberries that grew there. Portsmouth grew into the colonies’ fourth largest city at the mouth of the Piscataqua River, which divides New Hampshire and Maine. The port dealt with fishing, lumber and shipbuilding. In 1653 it was incorporated as Portsmouth after the port city of the same name in England. By 1679 it had become the territory’s capital, and remained so until 1774 when Exeter became New Hampshire’s Revolutionary War capital (in 1789 the state capital was established in Concord, where it remains). The first act of the American Revolution took place at Portsmouth’s Fort William & Mary in December 1774 after Paul Revere sailed from Boston to Portsmouth warning that the British were coming. John Paul Jones the “Father of the American Navy” came to Portsmouth in 1781 to await the completion of his ship America. The Portsmouth Naval Shipyard, which is across the river in Kittery Maine (home to 120 outlet stores and only about 7 miles away), was established in 1800 as the country’s first Naval shipyard. It launched 31 submarines in 1944 and built the first Polaris in 1962 and is still going strong today as refitter of the latest Virginia Class nuclear submarine fleet. In 1849 Portsmouth was incorporated as a city. In 1905 President Theodore Roosevelt chose the Naval Shipyard to host negotiations that lead to the Treaty of Portsmouth, ending the Russo-Japanese War and leading to his winning the Nobel Peace Prize in 1906 (Presidents Wilson, Obama & Carter also won the prize). The city of 21,000 (50 miles from Boston and 260 from NYC) contains many examples of Colonial, Georgian and Federal style houses with several converted to museums. In 1813 a fire destroyed almost 250 buildings and all new buildings built in the downtown area had to be of brick construction with slate roofs. The Historic District, which includes the North Church whose spire can be seen from most of the city, is centered on Market Square. The Portsmouth Historical Society’s John Paul Jones House Museum is housed in the Captain Gregory Purcell House renamed in honor of its most famous lodger. In 2008 the National Trust for Historic Preservation named Portsmouth one of the “Dozen Distinctive Destinations.” Also in 2008 Prevention Magazine called Portsmouth one of the “top 100 walking cities in America.” I can attest to that as I spent several hours walking past (and visiting) many of the historic buildings, sidewalk cafes, restaurants, art galleries and artisan boutiques. Forbes Traveler named Portsmouth as one of “America’s Prettiest Towns” in 2009. The redevelopment of Pease Air Force Base has led to many new job opportunities. It now houses the Air National Guard and the Portsmouth International Airport at Pease. I spent two nights at Wentworth by the Sea- A Marriott Hotel & Spa. In the afore mentioned Portsmouth Peace Treaty both delegations stayed at the Wentworth Hotel (as it was then called) for 30 days, as the guests of the owners on behalf of the State of New Hampshire. In 1994 the Portsmouth Peace Treaty Forum was formed to explore themes of diplomacy and to prepare for the 100th anniversary of the Treaty, celebrated in 2005. In 2006 the 100th anniversary of TR Nobel, the Forum was moved to Wentworth by the Sea. Each year the forum welcomes a diplomat or scholar to discuss his or her recently published book exploring the idea that ordinary people can make a difference if they choose to become involved; and that diplomacy works. The hotel was built in 1874 and closed in 1982. It was scheduled to be demolished in 1995 (all the furnishing were sold off). Attention was drawn to the plight of the Victorian hotel when it appeared on the National Trust for Historic Preservation’s list of America’s Most Endangered Places as well as the History Channel’s America’s Most Endangered. This postponed the demolition sufficiently to identify a buyer, and Ocean Properties (Sagamore- Bolton Landing NY- Samoset- Rockport ME- Harborside Hotel- Bar Harbor ME) acquired the property in 1997. The hotel was subsequently renovated, reopened in 2003, and is operated as a Marriott resort. The Wentworth by the Sea is a member of the National Trust for Historic Preservation Historic Hotels of America and is a AAA Four Diamond property. The now-independent Wentworth by the Sea Country Club is home to the golf course that was expanded to 18 holes in 1964. The Wentworth Marina is also independently operated and welcomes Wentworth hotel guests. Wentworth is one of a handful of the state’s surviving Gilded Age grand hotels, and the last located on the seacoast (technically in New Castle which abuts Portsmouth). There are 161 guestrooms and suites including The Little Harbor Marina Suites, located on the water and across from the main hotel. There is also a seasonal waterfront restaurant located there. The spa includes treatment rooms, the fitness center and indoor pool (free for hotel guests). During the summer season there is sailing, water-skiing, canoeing and fishing, plus an outdoor waterfront pool. I had dinner and the breakfast buffet in the Wentworth Dining Room. When the hotel was renovated they planned for only 161 rooms thinking there would be very little business in the winter months. How wrong they were. Mid January through the end of February they have the Winter Wine Festival. During the 6 weeks there are Grand Vintner’s Dinners, a “Bubbles & Jazz Brunch” each Sunday, a champagne Valentine Dinner and the Grand Tasting Reception with dancing and jazz. In 2009 the Festival premiered its first-ever Wine Fair & Sale with partner New Hampshire State Liquor Commission (NH has state stores with wine sold in private stores also). The weekend I stayed there they were sold out with weddings, business meetings and the first of 3 Vintage Christmas weekends. There was a free vintage trolley running a 15-minute route downtown. The holiday tree lighting took place on Market Square. The two highlights for me were the 30th annual Candlelight Stroll at Strawbery Banke Museum, a ten-acre living history museum. It features more than 40 restored buildings built between the 17th and 19th centuries in the Colonial, Georgian, and Federal style architectures, with costumed role players explaining the history of each home. Dinner was at Jumping Jack’s where I was able to see the Illuminated Holiday Parade through the rain/sleet/snow. To complete the “Strolls, Shows and Stayovers” I went to the Music Hall (the landmark 900 seat Victorian era theater built in 1878) to see Striking 12 with GrooveLily, a very witty score that combines pop, rock, jazz, and show tunes. The next morning the overnight snow was cleared from the roads and I went back downtown to the Sheraton Portsmouth Harborside Hotel for their holiday brunch. In 10 minutes I was in Kittery Maine with its 120 outlets divided into many sections all along Route 1. There is a very large and well-supplied state liquor outlet store in Hampton, just before crossing into Massachusetts. There is no sales tax in New Hampshire and the claim is the state stores have the lowest prices in New England. In 4 1/2 hours I was back in NYC. I would like to return in the summer. For More Information- |
Christmas in the Lehigh Valley
Posted by clayton, under Journal Articles
| Christmas in the Lehigh Valley
by Ron Kapon With a population of around 800,000 the Lehigh Valley of Pennsylvania encompasses the cities of Easton, Bethlehem and Allentown. Easton is the smallest with a population of 26,000 and is but 70 miles from NYC (first city after leaving New Jersey along Interstate 78). It sits at the confluence of the Delaware & Lehigh Rivers. It is the home to Lafayette College, the National Canal Museum (the only museum dedicated to the story of America’s historic towpath canals) and the famed State Theatre Center for the Arts with top stage and screen performers. Centre Square with its weekly farmers markets, restaurants, art galleries and antique shops is easily found by looking for the War Memorial topped with the Peace Candle (during the holiday season). I was there to see the Crayola Factory and store and was the only person touring the interactive museum without kids. Next door is the Crayola Store where I loaded up on gifts for my grand nephews and nieces. Crayola produces nearly 3 billion crayons each year, an average of 12 million daily. Drive 20 minutes to Nazareth and take the one-hour tour of Martin Guitar. Still in the Martin family after 176 years (1833) you don’t have to understand or play the guitar (I don’t) to enjoy the tour of America’s largest and the world’s oldest maker of fine acoustic guitars. See the art of guitar making, from old world tools in this state-of-the-art facility. Follow a guitar from rough lumber to a finished product, which requires more than 300 steps to complete. Visit the museum to see a $100,000 guitar, plus more than 200 rare, vintage instruments on display. They honor the artists who used Martin Guitars including: Gene Autry, Johnny Cash, Elvis & John Mayer. Or you can practice in the soundproof studio. I can now tell my Christian friends I have been to Nazareth and Bethlehem. Allentown is the third largest city in Pennsylvania, after Philadelphia and Pittsburgh, with a population of 108,000. The Liberty Bell Museum tells the story of the Liberty Bell that was hidden here from the British (from 1777 to 1778) who wanted to melt it down for cannon balls. The band shell in West Park is dedicated to civilian concert bands, including the Allentown Band, the oldest civilian band in the country. Muhlenberg College is nearby. I was impressed that a town the size of Allentown can nurture a symphony orchestra (they play at Symphony Hall). It is also home to the amusement and water park Dorney Park & Wildwater Kingdom (technically it is outside the city limits). The DaVinci Science Center recently relocated to a much larger building on the outskirts of town and is packed with more than 200 hands-on exhibits. Abutting Allentown is Bethlehem or, as it is called, “Christmas City.” With a population of 72,000 it was founded in 1741 by members of the Moravian Church who came from Germany. It was named after the city in Judea, the birthplace of Jesus Christ. With less than one million members worldwide Bethlehem is the second largest (after North Carolina) center for the Moravian church. There are several structures that I visited that showed the communal living Choirs of the Moravian’s (even the cemetery is divided by affiliation, not family). There is the Brethren’s House, Sisters’ House, Widows’ House, Congregation House and the Chapel. I had a chance to see the Central Moravian Christmas Putz, guided by the 12 year old daughter of one of the volunteers who spent 10 minutes with me explaining all, even the word Putz (from the German word putzen, meaning “to decorate”). It retells the story of Christ’s birth through narration and music, while tiny lights illuminate each miniature scene. The figures, many of them antiques of German origin, are nestled amidst live moss, driftwood and rocks. The nearby Moravian Museum (log structure) was built in 1741 and is the oldest existing building in Bethlehem. My self-guided tour showed an architectural history of Bethlehem’s Gemeinhaus (church, meeting place, school, and minister’s house). Among the Museum’s many features are period rooms furnished to interpret the life and surroundings of the early Moravians. The Moravian Bookstore is the oldest (1745) continuous bookstore in the country and is located across Main Street from the Historic Bethlehem Visitors Center where my 45-minute guided tour started. There was an exhibit in the next-door 1810 Goundie House called “Roll Out the Barrel: Bethlehem Brews History.” This building, along with the Moravian Museum, Burnside Plantation (a mile outside downtown this 6 1/2 acre historic plantation tells the story of a Moravian farm from 1748-1848) and the Kemerer Museum of Decorative Art (period rooms and galleries along with a Victorian garden) are all part of the Historic Bethlehem Partnership. So was my walking tour, the Horse-Drawn Carriage Rides and the restored 1750/1761 Smithy which brings into view the bellows, forge, anvil and fire used by Bethlehem’s blacksmiths. The partnership helps promote all their venues and also works with the Lehigh Valley Convention & Visitors Bureau to promote “Christmas City.” Bethlehem has more original 18th century buildings than Colonial Williamsburg. Christkindlmarkt Bethlehem is presented by ArtsQuest which also promotes Musikfest 2010. Started in 1984 with 118 performers on 6 stages it has morphed into a 10-day festival (August 6-15) with 300 performers, 14 indoor/outdoor stages (11 are free) and over 1 million people attending. Christkindlmarkt operates from the end of November through the 20th of December (Thursday- Sunday) under a giant tent as well as an outdoor plaza area. There are aisles of handmade works by artisans that have to be invited to participate based on the quality of their goods. There is live music, a food court, ice carvings, glass blowing and of course jolly, old St. Nicholas (not Santa Claus). ArtsQuest also operates The Banana Factory, a Cultural Arts & Education Center. In 2011 they will open the ArtsQuest Center for Performing Arts adjacent to the blast furnaces still remaining from Bethlehem Steel. Sands Casino just opened in Bethlehem on part of the site of the shuttered (1995) Bethlehem Steel. It hosts 3,200 slots, electronic table games, an unfinished hotel and retail shop area, as well as six restaurants. Regular table games have been approved by the legislature. In 1939 Bethlehem Steel was used to make The Star of Bethlehem which sits atop South Mountain. It is 81 feet high and contains 246 light bulbs. It is lit year round from 4:30 PM to midnight and can be seen for many miles. Lehigh University is located nearby. I stayed overnight at the Hyatt Place Bethlehem where I parked my car and walked everywhere in town. For More Information- |
Rocky Mountaineer Luxury Rail Gives Awesome Canadian Experience
Posted by clayton, under Journal Articles
Rocky Mountaineer Luxury Rail gives Awesome Canadian Experience
By Bobbie Green
There cannot be a better way to enjoy the awe-inspiring vistas that are found in Western Canada. My eyes are inundated with wondrous scenery in full view from my dome car on the Rocky Mountaineer Train.
In celebration of its 20th season, Randy Powell, President of “Rocky Mountaineer” the Canadian train company, was at the Vancouver station to see us off on the first train run of the season. I was taking the 2-day journey over the “Kicking Horse Route” to Calgary while enjoying their “Gold Leaf Service.”
As we left the station, all the Rocky Mountaineer staff not aboard our train were lined up to give their famous two handed good-by wave to those aboard the train. This guest pleasing gesture happens each time the train leaves a Rocky Mountaineer station. The seats in both Red Car Service and Gold Leaf Service are wide and comfy. Red car passengers enjoy picture windows and have their meals at their seat. Gold Leaf passengers ride in the upper dome car and have their meals below in the picture windowed dinning car.
Our route takes us along the coastal mountains, the Rocky Mountains and Glacier National Park. The first run of the season begins in April and some rivers, lakes and waterfalls were still frozen or just beginning to thaw, what a treat for passengers from a mild climate like my self. Guest getting to take in the majestic views while passing behind cascading glacier ice is almost surreal. Short of climbing a mountain yourself, where else could one see this phenomenal scenery? For those passengers used to a long white winter I would recommend taking the run later in the summer where your eyes may feast on the lush greenery and pristine lakes of Canada.
Unlike Canada’s Via train that goes from coast to coast Rocky Mountaineer is privately owned and runs western Canadian itineraries. Passengers may add sight seeing tours if they wish or lengthen their trip by connecting with Via to cross the country. The train runs only in daylight hours, not to miss the views. Guests overnight in hotels. We stayed in the town of Kamloops at the Thompson Hotel. Guest had a choice of spending the evening exploring on their own or attending a pre-arranged dinner and show. Room keys were handed out on the train and the luggage was in the room when the guest arrived. Kamloops is one of the warmest, driest cities in Canada and takes pride in its beautiful golf courses. The name Kamloops comes from a First Nation word meaning “meeting of the waters.”
I found the trip to be superior in every way. The service is out of the ordinary with the attendants also acting as docents pointing out sights and giving the history along with their own brand of humor. The food left nothing to be desired. It was presented as it would be in a fine dinning restaurant and tasted every bit as good. Beverages of all kinds were always forthcoming to your seats along with snacks.
Those with long range focal lenses on their cameras spent much of their time on the vestibule shooting the scenery without the glass. People from all over the world want to travel on this train. I met folks from England, Switzerland, Germany, Australia and Texas. I know the Texans will appreciate me listing them with the Countries.
Rocky Mountaineer has perfected luxury train travel through out the past years, the proof being all the awards and accolades they have won since 1991. Still an innovative company, they are now introducing escorted Tours and themed tours, with the addition of a lounge/ library car and features such as wine appreciation and special educational presentations. This means you will have another common interest with your fellow passengers who have chosen this particular theme. The train is handicapped accessible including a lift.
When talking with the attendants and the train manager I found most of them have been with the company for many years, and have plans to stay with them because they enjoy their work.
My train experience was truly awesome because of the scenery and fun because of the comfort, fellow passengers and attendants. When you are ready to ride the rails, I can recommend the luxury rails of Rocky Mountaineer for an experience of a lifetime.
IF YOU GO
Rocky Mountaineer Vacations
800-665-7245
www.Rockymountaineer.com
Goggle: tourism Vancouver
www.Britishcolumbia.com
Lions and Tigers-My Visit to Princeton, New Jersey
Posted by clayton, under Journal Articles
Lions and Tigers- My Visit to Princeton, New Jerseyby Ron Kapon Let’s start with the fact that I went to Columbia College and the Columbia Graduate School of Business. Our mascot is the Lion. Princeton’s mascot is the Tiger. On an early fall Sunday I arrived in Princeton for a two day visit. A few weeks earlier the Columbia football team, not known as a powerhouse, destroyed Princeton 38-0. This was Columbia’s first road shutout since 1961. Trivia alert- the 1869 game between Rutgers and Princeton is notable because it was the first documented game of any sport called “football” between two American colleges.Princeton, New Jersey is located in Mercer County with the university founded in 1746 and moved to Princeton in 1756. New Jersey’s capital is the city of Trenton, but the governor’s official residence has been in Princeton since 1945. Although Princeton is a “college town,” (the area gets almost 1 1/2 million visitors a year) there are other important institutions in the area, including Rider University, the Institute for Advanced Study, Educational Testing Service (ETS), Siemens Corporate Research, The Robert Wood Johnson Foundation, Tyco International, Verizon, Bristol Myers Squibb, Berlitz International, and Dow Jones & Company. The town is roughly equidistant between New York and Philadelphia. Princeton has been home to New York commuters since the end of World War II. It took me less than two hours to arrive at The Nassau Inn in the center of town. The original building (on Nassau Street) was also built in 1756 (they moved to their present location in 1937) and their 203 guestrooms have been updated with all modern conveniences. I stopped for a bagel in the Yankee Doodle Tap Room & Restaurant to admire their 13-foot wide Norman Rockwell mural, valued at over 1 1/2 million dollars. All the other 47 name brand hotels are located outside of the downtown area, mainly along Route 1.Ben Bernanke, Chairman of the Board of Governors of the United States Federal Reserve is a Princeton University professor. So are writers Joyce Carol Oates and Toni Morrison as well as John Forbes Nash, Jr., mathematician, subject of A Beautiful Mind. Notable visiting writers have included: Saul Bellows, Philip Roth and Gertrude Stein. Grover Cleveland, the 22nd and 24th President of the United States retired to, died in, and is buried in Princeton. Albert Einstein, physicist, was a fellow at the Institute for Advanced Study. Christopher Reeve, actor, grew up in Princeton, attended Princeton Day School. Paul Robeson, singer, actor, athlete, civil rights activist, also born and raised in Princeton. Woodrow Wilson, 28th President of the United States, 13th president of Princeton University and Governor of New Jersey. First Lady Michelle Obama graduated from Princeton, as did Brooke Shields and David Duchovny. Former US Senator Bill Bradley and Princeton basketball All-American is also a member of the Basketball Hall of Fame. One comical note- Brooke Shields dated Dean Cain who would play Superman. Christopher Reeve was also Superman and he grew up in Princeton.Mimi Omiecinski, owner and operator of the Princeton Tour Company, greeted me in the lobby of the Nassau Inn. The first hour was a walking tour of the university. The school is one of the eight universities of the Ivy League. Princeton University has traditionally focused on undergraduate education (4,900), although it has almost 2,500 graduate students. I was surprised to learn that Princeton does not have a law, medical or business school but it does offer professional master’s degrees (through the Woodrow Wilson School of Public and International Affairs) and doctoral programs in the sciences, humanities, and social sciences, as well as engineering. Nassau Hall, the oldest building on campus was named for the Dutch William III of England of the House of Orange-Nassau. The college also adopted orange as its school color from William III. Originally, the sculptures in front of the building were lions (Go Columbia!). These were later replaced with tigers in 1911. A variety of sculptures adorn the campus. They include pieces by Henry Moore, Clement Meadmore, and Alexander Calder. In 1969, Princeton University first admitted women as undergraduates (Columbia did the same in 1983). During the American Revolution, British and American forces occupied Princeton on different occasions. The Battle of Princeton, fought in a nearby field in January of 1777, proved to be a decisive victory for General George Washington and his troops. Two of Princeton’s leading citizens signed the United States Declaration of Independence: Richard Stockton and Clergyman John Witherspoon, who was later president of the college (whose great, great, great granddaughter is the actress Reese Witherspoon).The Princeton Triangle Club, a student performance group, built the Tony-award-winning McCarter Theatre. Today, the Triangle Club performs its annual freshmen revue and fall musicals in McCarter. McCarter is also recognized as one of the leading regional theaters in the United States. The Princeton University Art Museum has nearly 60,000 objects. The collections range from ancient to contemporary art and concentrate geographically on the Mediterranean regions, Western Europe, China, the United States, and Latin America. There is a collection of Greek and Roman antiquities, including ceramics, marble, bronzes, and Roman mosaics. The collection of Western European paintings includes examples from the early Renaissance through the nineteenth century and features a collection of twentieth-century and contemporary art. One of the best features of the museums is its collection of Chinese art including bronzes, tomb figurines, painting, and calligraphy. The museum has collections of old master prints and drawings and a comprehensive collection of original photographs. African and Indian art are also represented. Princeton University Chapel is the third-largest college chapel in the world, behind those of Valparaiso University and King’s College, Cambridge, England. Known for its gothic architecture, the chapel houses one of the largest and most precious stained glass collections in the country.For the next hour Mimi drove me around the Princeton area and a visit first to The Institute for Advanced Study,a center for theoretical research and intellectual inquiry. The Institute is perhaps best known as the academic home of Albert Einstein, after his immigration to the United States. The Institute has no formal links to Princeton University or other educational institutions. Princeton is also the home of Drumthwacket, the official residence of the Governor of New Jersey, although nearby Trenton is the state capitol. I had a brief visit to Princeton Battlefield State Park, the 100-acre state park that preserves the site of the Battle of Princeton (January 3, 1777); we didn’t have time to enter the Princeton Cemetery where Aaron Burr, Grover Cleveland and George Gallup, among others, are buried as I had a half-hour drive to my next appointment.The Grounds for Sculpture is a 35-acre sculpture park with two museum buildings on the site of the former NJ State Fairgrounds in Trenton. My only problem was having enough time to see the 250 sculptures, most in their natural settings. They were kind enough to provide a golf cart and docent to speed me through. I have to return and spend an afternoon there. Founded in 1992 by John Seward Johnson II (of Johnson & Johnson fame) the venue was intended to be dedicated to promoting an understanding of and appreciation for contemporary sculpture, including many by Johnson. Richard Moscovitz, the manager of Rat’s Restaurant, gave me a tour. Why the name Rat’s? In Kenneth Grahame’s classic, The Wind in the Willows, one of Seward Johnson’s favorite books, the character Ratty represented everything a host should be. As founder of Rat’s and Grounds For Sculpture, Johnson likens himself to Ratty who threw the best parties with the best wine. It is designed to make visitors feel they have stepped into a village reminiscent of French impressionist Claude Monet’s beloved town of Giverny. The restaurant overlooks Johnson’s sculptures inspired by Impressionists paintings, as well as the lily pond and bridge inspired by the works of Monet. After a meal one is invited to enter the Grounds for Sculpture at no charge. I can’t wait to go back for Sunday brunch and a few more hours touring the grounds.My dinner that night was at Mediterra, only a block from the Nassau Inn. It features cuisine from the 21 countries surrounding the Mediterranean Sea. Chef Luis Bollo prepared two dishes from scratch based on my allergy to all nuts. A great meal. My other meal was lunch at Witherspoon Grill also only 1 block from my hotel. I met Adam Perle, Vice President of the Princeton Regional Chamber of Commerce who arranged all my visits, at this classic steakhouse. After lunch we walked to The Princeton Corkscrew Wine Shop, considered the premier wine shop in town. We also stopped by the Paul Robeson Center for the Arts, again only a few blocks from the wine shop.Moving backwards to earlier that morning I was given a tour of the Nassau Inn by General Manager Lori Rabon and then a private tour of the Princeton Art Museum (see the description earlier in this story) by associate director Becky Sender. The museum is closed on Mondays so we had it all to ourselves. I did learn that admission to the museum is free. The kind folks at the Princeton Regional Chamber of Commerce gave me a gift certificate for the Princeton Record Exchange, again only a few blocks from the Nassau Inn. It is one of the largest independent music stores in the US and I found a prefect CD set of the US Presidents. It was time to return to NYC with a desire to return very soon.For More Information-www.groundsforsculpture.org/ratsrestaurant |
York County Pennsylvania-the Factory Tour & Snack Food Capitol of the World, and Uncork York Wine Trail.
Posted by clayton, under Journal Articles
York County Pennsylvania- the Factory Tour & Snack Food Capitol of the World, and the UnCork York WIne Trail
By Ron Kapon
An invitation to visit a few of the 12 family-owned wineries along the UnCork York Wine Trail led me to do more research on the York County area. Located about 4 hours from NYC, the city of York is also less than 55 miles from Baltimore, Gettysburg’s Battlefields, Harrisburg (PA capitol), Hershey’s Chocolate World and Lancaster’s Amish Country. Having been to all of the other five I decided 3 days in York County would work for me. Available tours include a brewery, a weaver, woodcraft, a farm dairy and of course Harley-Davidson Motor Company. York Barbell is a reseller of barbells and other equipment for weight training and bodybuilding and is the home of the USA Weightlifting Hall of Fame. The historic York Fair, which claims to be the country’s oldest, traces its roots to 1765. It runs every year in September for 10 days. I wish I had more time since I was there during its run. When you get hungry there is always Hershey’s Chocolate World, Martin’s Potato Chips, Revonah Pretzels, Synder’s of Hanover, Utz Quality Foods, Wolfgang Candy and Stauffer’s Biscuit Company. One can visit more than 20 factory tours to discover how America’s favorite products are crafted and all are made right there in York County.
Nothing was more than 35 minutes from my other stops and both Map Quest & my GPS system kept me from ever getting lost. I only wish the State of Pennsylvania was more accommodating to the wineries by allowing Wine Trail signs and did not charge an arm & a leg for the few signs they did allow.
York was founded in 1741 by settlers from the Philadelphia region and named for the English city of the same name. York was incorporated as a city in 1887. During the American Revolutionary War (1775–1783), York served as the temporary capital of the Continental Congress. The Articles of Confederation were drafted and adopted in York. During the American Civil War (1861–1865), York became the largest Northern town to be occupied by the Confederate army.
My first stop was at Susquehanna Glass in Columbia, about 30 minutes from my home base of York. Founded in 1910 it is still in the Rowen family today. With a few exceptions the equipment is the same used almost a century ago. My private tour showed me how personalized engravings were made on different styles of glass. The company does not make glass but purchases standard sizes and makes them special. Have a favorite NFL, NBA or MLB team? They will used the official logo for that team and add something personal (name, occasion etc). While in Columbia spend a few minutes at the National Watch & Clock Museum. There have over 12,000 treasures of time.
My home for two nights was the Lady Linden B&B in a restored Victorian Queen Anne style B&B built in 1887. Jim & Jean Leaman lived across the street and decided to lovingly restore the 3 bedrooms available as well as the parlor, dining room and grounds to its former splendor, as well as moving in upstairs. Dinner the first night was at the Commonwealth Room of the Yorktowne Hotel which opened in 1925. It is York County’s only AAA Four-Diamond restaurant. They are a member of the Historic Hotels of America. Chef Mark Pawlowski prepared a 7-course winemaker dinner, with wine pairings, just for me. I never made it through the 7 courses.
The next morning I walked around the historic downtown district past the Strand-Capitol Performing Arts Center to the Central Market House. Fresh produce, meats and cheeses along with assorted gift items filled one of the oldest market houses in the country. It was now time to begin my UnCork York Wine Trail adventure. On Friday-Sunday November 20-22 from 11AM-5PM Wine Just Off The Vine allows participants into the cellars of 10 wineries for tank and barrel tasting of newly pressed wines fresh from the harvest. For $10 you receive an UnCork York Wine glass and a 10% discount at participating wineries. I was able to visit 4 of the 10 wineries starting with an old friend Dick Naylor, owner of his namesake Naylor Wine Cellars. He believed that York County could produce premium wines when he started 30 years ago. As an aside he is still active in his mid-80’s but his mother is 107 and still going because she has a glass of his wine every day. We used an ATV to tour much of his 27-acres of vines with over 40 varieties. He has a pavilion for musical presentations along with a wine and food stand.
William Penn brought grapevines with him to the New World in the 1600s. Traditional native grapes such as Concord, Niagara & Catawba along with hybrid varieties including Chambourcin & Vidal Blanc are grown in certain parts of the state. The humid summers and often-frigid winters dictate which grapes grow where. There are parts of the area that are warmer and have cool microclimates that allow the classic European vinifera grapes Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon to flourish.
Who knew that I would find paradise in Seven Valleys where I spoke to co-owner Charles Aldinger at his boutique (1,000 case) Four Springs Winery? I loved his labels for Fat Cat red wine and City Kitty white wine because Renoir, my 2-year-old city fat cat, loves sipping wine. Across the street I had lunch at Serenity Station Deli Café. The building houses a day spa run by Barbara Smeltzer while her husband Steve tends to the restaurant and gave me a history lesson. The building is 170 years old. The old Northern Central Railroad ran along what is now the York County Heritage Rail Trail located at the rear of the building. The “Freight Room” has photos & documents of the history of Serenity Station. From the Maryland state line to Seven Valleys it is 11 miles. The outside garden houses entertainment on Friday & Saturday nights through October 16th.
I had two appointments in Wrightsville, which was an easy 30-minute drive. The weather was perfect with sun and temperatures in the high 70’s so I spent most of the time talking to owner Jim Miller at his Moon Dancer Vineyards & Winery on his patio listening to a jazz trio and looking at the Susquehanna River. He had another band performing that night. Dinner was at John Wright Restaurant along the same Susquehanna River. You can see the remains of the civil war era historic Wrightsville Bridge while you dine outdoors. The Union Army blew up the bridge so the Confederate Army had to move the long way, by land. The John Wright Company specializes in cast iron products for the home & garden, selling shelf brackets, fireplace and woodstove accessories, Christmas tree stands and more. It is worthwhile strolling through the store before, or after your meals.
My last morning was spent at Allegro Vineyards where co-owner Carl Helrich spoke about his choice to make wine and skip the entertainment opportunities at the winery. He does sell his wine at 5 other company owned outlets in the region. Pennsylvania law allows up to 5 outside sales sources. The winery was founded in 1980 and Carl and his wife Kris Miller bought the property in 2000. It was an easy 4-hour drive back to New York City as once again the sun and temperature made for a lovely 3-day visit.
For More Information-
www.yorkpa.org
www.uncorkyork.com
www.yorkpa.org/tours
www.naylorwine.com
www.harley-davidson.com/experience
www.theglassfactory.com
www.allegrowines.com
www.fourspringswinerypa.com
www.moondancerwinery.com
www.stauffers.net
www.serenity-station.com
www.yorktowne.com
www.jwright.com
www.johnwrightrestaurant.com
Wining, Dining & Touring in California’s Central Coast-Part 2
Posted by clayton, under Journal Articles
Wining, Dining & Touring in California’s Central Coast- Part 2
by Ron Kapon
Part 1 of this article covered the Central Coast from the San Francisco Airport south through San Jose, Santa Cruz, Gilroy, Monterey, Carmel, Big Sur, Paso Robles, Hearst Castle & back to the airport. Less than three months later I was on my way to Los Angeles, Oxnard, Ventura, Santa Barbara, Solvang, Santa Ynez, San Luis Obispo & back to Los Angeles. At my farthest point in San Luis Obispo I was only 27 miles from my farthest point during Part 1. Much of the technical wine information can be found by reading Part 1 and I did not want to waste your time by repeating that information here.
As a savvy travel shopper I rarely rent cars from companies using airport locations. Someone has to pay for that valuable space, taxes and shuttle buses. Searching the internet I found “OK Rent a Car” which has only 1 location, next to the Hilton Hotel on Century Boulevard, about 5 minutes from the airport. Their price for a PT Cruiser convertible (this was California) was almost $425 cheaper than any rental agency at LAX. Do your homework. Because “OK” had only one location I had to agree to pay for any towing if the car broke down outside the greater LA area. I also supplied my own insurance. My auto policy covered me; my corporate Amex card covered my insurance deductible & my AAA Plus policy covered towing up to 100 miles. True, my farthest point was 200 miles from LA but there was never a problem with the car.
My hosts always ask me what type of accommodations I prefer. My answer is a bed, air conditioning, a TV & internet. I ask for unusual hotels, B&B’s and Inns that I can write about. I did stay at two brand name chain hotels, but each was distinctive. My other nights were spent at an historic inn and one of the most unusual hotels I have ever seen. Read on for all the details.
This trip started and ended with a visit with my friend Geoff whom I have known since he was 13 years old. I spent the first and last nights of my trip with Geoff and his wife Tara at their condo in West LA, just 20 minutes from LAX. After dinner I was introduced to Yogurtland. For 30 cents an ounce, with lots of flavors and toppings, I was in heaven. When will they come to NYC? My first stop was less than an hour’s drive at Herzog Wine Cellars in Oxnard. They specialize in artisanal winemaking and special reserve wines that happen to be kosher. I ate lunch at the Tierra Sur restaurant on property that serves seasonal Mediterranean cuisine. The city of 200,000 is the largest in Ventura County and is California’s largest strawberry producer. With 20 miles of mostly uncrowded coastline Oxnard serves with adjacent Ventura as the Gateway to the Channel Islands, famous for hiking and 2,000 plants & animals. The 5 offshore islands have no hotels or restaurants but Channel Island Harbor has a dive center, kayak rentals, boat charters, a yacht club and 9 marinas. There is also the Ventura County Maritime Museum, a small venue but well worth the stop with free admission. Oxnard is located near the 130-store Camarillo Premium Outlets and has a brand new California Welcome Center. We visited the tasting room of Rancho Ventavo Cellars located in a 1902 house within Heritage Square. This city block has relocated historic houses, which are now used for business and fun, and also has free Friday night concerts. I stayed at the 248-room Embassy Suites Mandalay Beach Hotel & Resort, directly on the water. This is southern California’s only all-suite beachfront resort. It was unlike any Embassy Suites I had ever seen. A free evening reception, including alcohol, and a fully cooked free breakfast were included. I had a relaxing dinner at Capistrano’s, located inside the hotel and overlooking the pool. There is an arcaded courtyard, 50-foot ceilings and windows around the top.
The next day I had a short 30-minute drive to Ventura. This city of 107,000 is one of the best sites in southern California for surfing. It sits in the foothills of Los Padres National Forest. The visitor’s center in downtown is the recommended first stop. On the way into town I stopped briefly at Ventura Harbor filled with restaurants, shops, fishing areas and the headquarters of the Channel Islands National Park, referred to as “America’s Galapagos.” The ornate city hall has the obligatory statue of Father Junipero Serra, the founder of California’s mission system. The early 1930’s Majestic Ventura Theater holds many concerts. Nearby is the headquarters of Patagonia. I tried to find time to get to their annual 50% off sale but only had 4 hours in town and chose touring over shopping. We did have time to taste wine at Old Creek Ranch Winery & watch their skateboard-riding dog. It is located 7 miles north of Ventura on a working cattle ranch in Ojai Valley. Lunch was on Main Street at Jonathan’s located in a building built in 1877. The menu was a blend of cooking styles from many Mediterranean countries. I stopped for a glass of wine at The Wine Rack, and also Paradise Pantry, both of which have a large selection of Ventura County wines. An hour away I arrived in Santa Barbara for my two-day visit.
Again, I heard the word Ramada Inn and wondered what was in store for me. This one featured a tropical garden complete with freshwater lagoon. Filled with water lilies and home to ducks and koi fish, I sat out on my balcony and watched the sun set. Santa Barbara is called “The American Riviera” and is home to 93,000. If you include Montecito (check out the Four Seasons Hotel) and Carpinterra there are over 200,000 in the Metro area. The waterfront area along Stearns Wharf (the west coast’s oldest operating wharf) has the famous Dolphin Fountain up front. I took a 1 1/2 hour tour with the Santa Barbara Trolley Company that leaves every hour right next to the wharf. We stopped at the SB Mission built in 1786 that is dubbed the Queen of the Missions.” I returned, after the tour, for a visit to the SB Courthouse built in 1929 in the Spanish-Moorish style. I had dinner the first night at Downey’s on State Street, the city’s main drag. I had the best duck I have tasted in the past 10 years. I wished I had time to see a concert at the 2,000 seat Arlington Theatre located a few blocks from my dinner location. I also stopped at the Moreton Bay Fig Tree, the largest in North America.
The next day I had lunch at Pierre Lafond Wine Bistro and learned that there really is a Pierre Lafond. He and his wife own several high-end fashion boutiques and he operates the Santa Barbara Winery as well as a market in Montecito. His winery was originally opened in 1962 and was the first opened in the county after prohibition. Dinner was at Stella Mare’s in the Greenhouse overlooking the Bird Refuge featuring casual French Country Cuisine. I was there for live jazz Wednesday(s). I took the self guided Red Tile Walking Tour throughout downtown and visited several tasting rooms on the Urban Wine Trail.
I drove along the narrow and winding San Marcos Pass Road (State Road 154) through the Santa Ynez Mountains with large portions of the mountain range in the Los Padres National Forest toward Solvang and the Santa Ynez Valley. I stopped in the town of Santa Ynez to have lunch and a tour of the area with Jim Fiolek, the Executive Director of the Santa Barbara County Vintners Association. We stopped at the Chumash Casino Resort and he pointed out the various wine trails I could visit. I stopped to admire the Quicksilver Miniature Horse Ranch in Ballard. Even though I was not a Michael Jackson fan I could not resist stopping at Neverland Ranch. It is named after Neverland, the fantasy island in the story of Peter Pan, a boy who never grows up. The ranch is located about five miles north of unincorporated Los Olivos, and about eight miles north of the town of Santa Ynez. I picked up a Sideways Map and decided to visit several of the locations featured in the 2004 movie. I stopped at The Hitching Post & Ostrich Land, both in Buellton; Los Olivos Café, Foxen, Firestone & Fess Parker Wineries in Los Olivos and Kalyra Winery in Santa Ynez.
I overnighted at the Hadsten House Inn in downtown Solvang. Newly renovated with classic French furnishings this 71-room boutique inn offers wine & cheese from 3-5PM & a full American breakfast. We also had dinner in their restaurant. After dinner we drove to meet celebrity chef (is there any other kind? think super model?) Bradley Ogden (I have eaten at his restaurants in Las Vegas and San Francisco). Root 246 in the renovated, Chumash Indian owned Hotel Corque, (remember this is wine country) demonstrates his farm-to-table style of cooking. The only thing kept in the freezer is ice cream. He told me he spends at least two weeks a month here. Solvang is the Danish Capital of North America and means “sunny fields” in Danish. It features more than 200 European-style shops and bakeries and several wine tasting rooms. Tastes of the Valley Wine Bar had 140 wines from the area available for purchase. I spent a few minutes at the Hans Christian Andersen Museum a block from the Little Mermaid Fountain. Santa Maria Valley, Santa Ynez Valley and Santa Rita Hills appellations are the three AVAs (American Viticultural Area) in Santa Barbara County. There are over 100 wineries in the county and five existing wine trails. I visited the Foxen Canyon Road, Santa Ynez, Los Olivos, Santa Maria Valley, Solvang and Santa Rita Hills trails. In 1782 Father Junipero Serra brought grapevine cuttings from Mexico to be planted in the fertile bottoms of Sycamore Creek. The largest mission vineyard, about 25 acres, was located in the San Jose Creek area, and an adobe winery, built nearby in 1804, is now Goleta’s oldest landmark. In 1884, Justinian Caire imported grape slips from France and planted a 150-acre vineyard on Santa Cruz Island. A grapevine planted in 1842 on a farm in Carpinteria has a trunk measuring nine feet around, an arbor covering two acres and an annual yield of ten tons of grapes.
The next morning I had an appointment with Brook Williams, the CEO of Zaca Mesa Winery on Foxen Canyon Road. Zaca Mesa is a Santa Ynez Valley estate winery, opened in 1973, dedicated to Rhone varieties. All the wines are made from grapes grown on 244 acres of vineyards and are designated as Estate Bottled. In an hour I arrived at my farthest point- San Luis Obispo- 200 miles north of LA. Lunch was at the Cracked Crab in Pismo Beach and I tried to have a light meal. Good luck with plate after plate of delicious seafood appearing on the table. I was ready for a nap but duty called and we started a tour of Pismo Beach. It is known as the “Clam Capital” of California. The city holds the “Clam Festival” every October, complete with clam chowder competitions and a clam-themed parade. There was a 20-minute wait at the Splash Café to try their clam chowder. Yummy! Upon first entering Pismo Beach, a gigantic concrete clam statue greets visitors. In the Chumash Indian language the word Pismo means Tar. I have never traveled by RV but the Pismo Coast Village RV Park has room for 400 RV’s with a swimming pool, clubhouse and mini-golf.
We were running a bit late so I checked in at the Madonna Inn in San Luis Obispo and changed clothes for my Edna Valley Chardonnay & Pinot Noir tasting at Tolosa Winery. How do I describe the Madonna Inn? Built 50 years ago there are 110 rooms each with a special theme plus pool, exercise room, spa and the largest convention center on the Central Coast. Choose a romantic honeymoon suite with European-style luxury, the novelty of a Western, Old Mill or Merry-Go-Round theme or a stay in one the famous, all-rock grotto rooms with waterfall shower. I loved my waterfall shower but had to watch out for the real hanging rocks. The late owner Alex Madonna was a local builder; hence much of the materials for the rooms came through his construction work.
Midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles, the SLO (that’s what the locals call it) wine region is comprised of three viticulture areas: the Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande Valley and Avila Valley. The small, mostly family-owned wineries are well known for their bottling of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, Zinfandel and more. The marine influence of the nearby Pacific Ocean provides a mild summer and warm fall, resulting in an unusually long growing season. Combined with the region’s rocky volcanic soils, these growing conditions produce fruit with intense varietal character and complex flavors. San Luis Obispo County is the fourth-largest premium grape-growing region in Coastal California, just behind Sonoma, Napa and Monterey counties but ahead of southern neighbor Santa Barbara County. Over the past 20 years, vineyard acreage in San Luis Obispo County has increased to 29,000 acres. By comparison Santa Barbara County has 18,000 acres, Napa; 44,000 & Sonoma; 58,000. As of my visit there were 220 wineries with the most Syrah acreage in all of California. Attending the tasting at Tolosa were: Baileyana Winery, Claiborne & Churchill Vintners, Edna Valley Vineyard, Ortman Family Vineyard, Stephen Ross Wine Cellars, Tolosa Winery and Wolff Vineyards. We managed to catch a few minutes of the free Friday night Concert Series at Mission Plaza and enjoy a cocktail at Corner View Restaurant on the way to dinner at Ciopinot Restaurant with Bob Schiebelhut, co-owner of Tolosa Winery and several other wine people. Bob and I spent most of the evening talking basketball (he played guard at Cal Berkeley). What I admired about the restaurant, besides the food, was the no corkage charge policy.
My last day in the Central Coast I was given a tour of Morro Bay. The famous Morro Rock was named in 1542 by Portuguese navigator Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo who called the rock El Moro because it resembled the head of a Moor, the people from North Africa known for the turbans they wore. Much of Morro Bay is a state wildlife refuge. There is no public access to the rock itself because it is a reserve for the locally endangered peregrine falcon. A number of restaurants, shops and parks line the Embarcadero and shoreline. The combination of tourist-oriented businesses with a working fishing port and the dominant presence of Morro Rock makes for an attractive waterfront for visitors. We did a walking tour of the historical district of downtown San Luis Obispo with Steve Akers, owner of SLO Walking Tours. The city has a population of about 45,000 and began in 1772 with the Mission SLO de Tolosa built as the fifth mission (out of 21) by Father Junipero Serra. By the way, his statue sits in front of all the missions. I got a chance to see the inside of the Fremont Theater with its Art Deco 1940’s style. It still plays first run movies. Sort of a junior version of Radio City Music Hall. I was really fascinated by Bubble. Started in the 1960’s by high school students leaving their bubblegum along the walls, it is now a tourist attraction. My last meal was at Old Edna’s where owner Petia Torrence showed me a painting of the topless Miss Edna who was rumored to be a prostitute that greeted men getting off the railroad where Old Edna now stands. This was also a tasting of unique & emerging varietals in the Edna Valley & Arroyo Grande AVAs. Attending were: Claiborne & Churchill, Sausalito Winery, Sextant, Tangent & Trenza. I asked if any of the wineries did a topless bottling. Don’t wait for the answer!
It took me less than 4 hours to get back to LA and dinner with Geoff & Tara. Also, another trip to Yogurtland. The next morning I returned my wonderful PT Cruiser Convertible and I was homeward bound. On both my trips, three months apart, I had great weather, never got stuck in traffic and tasted wines that would make Napa & Sonoma take notice.
Back roads offer Travelers New Encounters
Posted by clayton, under Journal Articles
Back roads offer Travelers New Encounters
By Bobbie Green
Travelers getting off the inter-state, taking back roads to their familiar destinations can acquire a fresh look to their previously proverbial trip. Back-road travel offers new encounters for tourist.
On our way to Laughlin from Las Vegas, Nevada, we decided to take back road 164 from I-15, signage says searchlight. We then turned right to Cima, then right again on Morning Star Mine Road all the way to the Kelso Train Depot. The two lane paved road is good enough for a sedan all the way. I wouldn’t recommend taking desert back roads during the rainy season because of flash flooding. Along the way you will pass through a Joshua forest and enjoy the mountain views, you will be driving through the Mojave National Preserve.
The Kelso Train Depot is a treat from yesteryear. The attractive train station built in 1924 as a stop and quarters for the crew of the Union Pacific Railroad. It was a home for helper engines and a water stop. The Kelso Club House & Restaurant was designed to rival the Harvey Houses of the Santa Fe lines. The restaurant sometimes called “The Beanery” was open round the clock through the boom years, the depot function ended in 1962. In 2005 the Kelso Depot reopened as part of the Mojave National Preserve and is now operating as a fun little museum and information center. The restaurant has been restored to its 1920’s appearance, is open lunch for selling only cold sandwiches and drinks, as frying hamburgers in a historic building is unlawful. A little oasis in the desert, but travelers should be aware there are no gas stations on these back roads between I-15 and I-40.
Since the Kelso Depot was a major junction in its day nearby was another railroad phenomenon a “hobo jungle” formed while the hobo’s waited for the next train going their way. Many stories are told of the town’s children mischievous pranks with the hobo’s and selling desert tortoises to the passengers for candy money.
From the Kelso Depot about eight miles down Kelbaker Road on the way to I-40 one will find the Kelso Dunes. The trailhead is only four miles off the road and there are many hiking trails.
The road also passes by the picturesque Granite Mountains. If one took Kelbaker Road from Baker to Kelso Depot they would pass by the Cinder Cone Lava Beds.
Once you enter on to I-40 the Essex Road exit will take you back into the National Preserve where you may visit Hole-in the Wall visitors center and campgrounds, it is closed to camping in the summer months. Close by the campgrounds are hiking trails and slot canyons but you must be prepared with proper clothes and shoes. I am told the wildflowers bloom in April and are quite a spectacular sight to see. If you stay on Essex Road you will enter the Providence Mountains State Recreational area and home to Mitchell Caverns. For the nominal fee of $5.00 one may take a guided tour through the caverns complete with stalactites, stalagmites, shields and draperies, note that during the summer there is only one tour given per day at 1:30p. If you have been in many other caverns this one may disappoint you. The tour is advertised as 1.5 hours long and this tour was only 60 minuets for the slowest walker.
Getting to your destination by way of these desert back roads is like traveling in time and you are in a past era, enjoy it, but do it with a full tank of gas and a full bottle of water.
IF YOU GO
Mojave National Preserve
760-255-8801 Kelso
www.nps.gov/moja
Hole-in-the-Wall
760-252-6104
Mitchell Caverns
760-928-2586
Wining Dining & Touring in California Central Coast
Posted by clayton, under Journal Articles
Wining, Dining & Touring in California’s Central Coast
According to Appellationamerica.com- an appellation is a wine growing region with officially recognized boundaries. Appellation designations are required on wine labels to identify the origin of the grapes used in making the wine. Vineyard locations rather than winery locations determine appellation. There are two classes of appellations- political boundaries (states, provinces and counties) and appellations defined by geographic boundaries based on topography, climate and soil types. These geographically based appellations are known as American Viticultural Areas (AVAs). It’s about the terroir. The concept of terroir is at the base of the French wine Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) system that has been the model for appellation and wine laws across the globe. At its core is the assumption that the land from which the grapes are grown imparts a unique quality that is specific to that region. The US has 194 AVAs in 25 states and California has 108 of those. The Central Coast region I visited has 29 in 7 counties and encompasses vineyards from San Francisco to Santa Barbara and all that lies between. My trip reached as far as Paso Robles, which is 122 miles from Santa Barbara. There are about 100,000 acres under vine in the Central Coast. The appellation was granted based on the shared cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean. There are presently over 2,800 commercial wineries in California with 622 wineries utilizing the Central Coast designation. What I immediately learned was that some of the finest producers don’t have tasting rooms and you can visit only by appointment. Conversely, a great many of the wineries I visited sell only from a tasting room and have very small production. If an AVA is listed on a wine label at least 85% of the grapes used to make that wine must have been grown in that AVA. There are over 55 grape varieties grown in the Central Coast region with Syrah, Chardonnay (largest), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Zinfandel and Viognier the main choices.
My trip itself was a whirlwind of activity and discovery. Even though air travel is no longer much fun, going Business Class on a 6-hour flight sure beats the alternative. I used the Delta Lounge at JFK, ate actual food and watched movies & live TV. You even get 2 bags checked free and all for 45,000 frequent flier mileage. The Internet really worked for me in researching a weekly car rental. I don’t tend to plug service vendors but $200 with all taxes for a PT Cruiser (I loved that car) was a bargain. In less than an hour I was at the San Jose Marriott where they gave me access to the Concierge Lounge with a free computer, breakfast and a great view from the 26th floor. The Winchester Mystery House Mansion Tour was not my cup of tea. It didn’t help that it was 98 degrees outside and up to 120 inside the 160-room former home of the widow to the Winchester Rifle company. The younger kids might not enjoy the history lesson but teenagers and adults who are into haunted houses or bizarre architecture might like it. The good thing is they allowed me to park there for the evening and I walked a block to Santana Row, a Mediterranean-style retail and entertainment district filled with trendy eateries (their words), fashion boutiques and bars. There are 70 shops and 20 restaurants. It seemed perfect for the Silicon Valley crowd that appeared to fill every place. I spent an hour at Vintage Wine Merchants at Santana Row and their sister operation Vintage Wine Bar. Their artisanal cheese & charcuterie plates complimented the 25 wines by the glass. A block away was my dinner at Village California Bistro & Wine Bar, with artisan seasonal ingredients & 400 wines, including 85 1/2 bottles (a great idea for the solo or couple diners). The next morning I opened the Rosicrucian Egyptian Museum, located inside the gardens of Rosicrucian Park. They boast the largest display of Egyptian artifacts in the western U.S. The Tech Museum of Innovation was inspired by its Silicon Valley location and is great for kids. Over 80,000 school kids come here every year for its 250 interactive exhibits and the IMAX theatre. Then it was lunch at the Arcadia Restaurant (a Michael Mina operation) back in the Marriott. Since the convention center is next door and there was nothing going on that day the restaurant was empty, except for our table located in the Wine Room. They carry 220 wines.
My wine adventure began in Santa Cruz, 30 miles southwest of San Jose. I spent the night at a charming B&B called the Adobe on Green Street, only a few blocks from the center of town. Pacific Avenue is a pedestrian-friendly district with art galleries, outdoor cafes and shops all anchored by the clock tower dating from 1900. Vacationers have been drawn to Santa Cruz since the 1800’s. The century-old Beach Boardwalk is home to two National Historic Landmarks. It features the West Coast’s oldest seaside amusement park. The Giant Dipper is a vintage wooden roller coaster that is 85 years old. The Carousel, built in 1911, features 73 hand-carved horses. The Santa Cruz Surfing Museum, located in a lighthouse, pays homage to Olympian Duke Kahanamoku’s visit in 1912. I watched the surfers ride the waves at Steamer Lane. My first wine stop was on the Wharf at Vino Prima Wine Bar that features California only wines by the glass, bottle or flight. There is Thrifty Tuesday with a buy one glass of wine, get one free plus 2 hours of free parking. The wharf stretches 1/2 mile into Monterey Bay and is lined with fish markets, restaurants and gift shops. I was off to meet one of my favorite wine people- Randall Grahm, owner of Bonny Doon Winery. He had recently sold his mountain winery & several of his high volume labels to concentrate on his small production wines. His new tasting room is right outside of downtown and we talked about his upcoming book (September) called- Been Doon So Long: A Randall Grahm Vinthology. Dinner was at Crows Nest, along the waterfront on Monterey Bay Marine Sanctuary, which stretches 276 miles and is a federally protected marine area. The next morning I walked to downtown Santa Cruz & Vinocruz Wine Tasting Room. They house a selection of over 200 wines made by more than 65 wineries, all within the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA. Another 2 block walk and lunch was at Center Street Grill. On my way out of town I stopped at Bargetto Winery in Soquel, the longest continuously operated winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains, celebrating their 76th anniversary. They still produce a line of dessert wines under the Chaucer label that I have enjoyed for years. I discovered their La Vita (the life) a blend of Dolcetto, Nebbiolo and Refosco.
An hour’s drive up scenic (windy & scary) Route 152 (Hecker Pass Highway) and I arrived in Gilroy, the southernmost city in Santa Clara County. Along with the city of Morgan Hill there are 21 boutique wineries with almost all of the sales coming from tasting room visitors. I visited Sarah’s Vineyard, Solis Winery, Clos La Chance, Jason-Stephens Winery & Kirigin Cellars in my afternoon and morning in the area. Gilroy is known for its Garlic Festival that takes place in late July and is in its 31st year. I even had a chance to taste garlic ice cream (don’t ask). Its nickname as the Garlic Capital of the World comes from the fact that Gilroy Foods processes more garlic than any other factory in the world; most pickled, minced, and powdered garlic come from Gilroy. The Gilroy Gardens Family Theme Park is a living, natural place where the 40 rides and attractions come alive in a setting of majestic waterfalls, lush gardens and astounding (I have never seen anything like them) circus trees. It is California’s only horticultural theme park. The West Side Grill was touted as the best restaurant in Gilroy and I was not disappointed. I stayed at the Hilton Garden Inn, which was only 1 minute from Interstate 101, which would lead me to my next stop- Monterey.
In an hour I was meeting Rhonda Motil, Executive Director of the Monterey County Vintners & Growers Association for lunch at the C Restaurant at the InterContinental Clement Hotel on Cannery Row in Monterey. John Steinbeck’s 1945 novel Cannery Row has now evolved to 30 restaurants, clubs and pubs, plus hundreds of shops. Nearby Fisherman’s Wharf is a family-friendly collection of waterside restaurants. Rhonda did an overview of Monterey County wines and their 9 AVA’s. It is the cooling effect of Monterey Bay, one of the deepest bays in the world, the long growing season and that legendary fog that account for the great wines of Monterey. There are over 40,000 acres of vines (translates to 150 vineyards) and nearly 30 tasting rooms between Cannery Row, Carmel-by-the-Sea, River Road and the Carmel Valley. There are 65 wineries in the county, many specializing in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (see the paragraph below for a list of winery/tasting rooms visited). We walked across the street to the Scheid Tasting Room. Who knew that Scheid is one of the largest independent growers of premium wine grapes for over 100 wineries? I relaxed in their stylish lounge and comfy chairs while discussing the truism that great wine begins in the vineyards. Back across the street is the Taste of Monterey Wine Shop with over 85 Monterey wineries for sale. This time it was two blocks to the Monterey Bay Aquarium, voted the #1 in the US by Zagat.
Big Sur is located approximately 30 miles south of Monterey via Highway 1 but don’t think it will take you a half hour. The road zigs and zags and you better hold on to the steering wheel with both hands. I stopped at least 6 times at overlooks to take in the beauty of the cliffs, water and animal life. I do not recommend this drive at night. It is wild and rugged and maybe the world’s most beautiful drive. Highway 1 is California’s first designated Scenic Highway. There are no towns in Big Sur but an assemblage of resorts, restaurants, lodges, campgrounds, art galleries and natural hot springs. I was about to spend the evening 1,200 feet above the Pacific Ocean at the Post Ranch Inn, a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World. There are 40 guest rooms and all are designed with a rustic luxurious elegance. Besides my king size bed there was a wood-burning fireplace (it gets cold at night, even in the summer), an indoor spa tub and a private terrace with whirlpool; no TV’s or internet for maximum relaxation, though there is a TV & computer in the library. Dinner was at the Sierra Mar Restaurant where my table overlooked the cliff and ocean. The four-course prix fixe menu is $105, plus beverages, tax & tip. But if one can afford the room rates, which start at $550, why worry about dinner prices (breakfast is included in the room rate)? The restaurant held a Wine Spectator Grand Award from 1993 to 2005 (2,700 selections) when ownership of the restaurant changed to the operators of the inn. They have reapplied for the award this year.
Next it was back the 30 miles into Carmel, and this time I did not stop. I visited several tasting rooms and wineries including: Taste Morgan, Chateau Julien Wine Estates, Heller Estate Organic Vineyards & Winery, Boekenoogen Vineyard & Winery Tasting Room and Parsonage Village Vineyards with lunch (with the winemaker) at the Wickets Bistro at Bernandus Lodge (down the road for the winery of the same name). L’Auberge Carmel in downtown Carmel-by-the-Sea is a luxury 20-room inn built in 1929 and is located 4 blocks from the beach. As luck would have it I arrived in time for their monthly wine and food dinner. This time the entire meal used vegetables in every course. The 4,500-bottle wine cellar was used to match each course with a wine. I had time to walk 2 blocks to the Ocean Avenue, the main street of the town that is the home to 45 inns and a mecca for artists and writers. There are no fast food restaurants, neon signs or parking meters in town. Remember Clint Eastwood was once the mayor. He “made my day.”
One does not come to this part of California without taking the famous Pebble Beach 17 Mile Drive. It was very early and there was little traffic as I once again stopped at most of the viewing points watching golfers hit over and around the water and walking around the Pebble Beach Lodge. I was off to Paso Robles, about a two-hour drive along Highway 101; not narrow curves & hair-raising turns, just a normal California road. On the way I stopped in Salinas, the lettuce bowl of the world, to visit Pessagno Winery in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA. A few miles south is Soledad located in one of the premiere wine grape growing regions of California with over twenty vineyards and wineries within a thirty-mile radius. I stopped at Hahn Estates/Smith & Hook, Chalone Vineyard & Paraiso Vineyards.
In an hour I was at my hotel in Paso Robles, the La Bellasera Inn. A suggestion on behalf of visitors to the city fathers: add better road signs! Who knew that Route 46 East & Route 46 West were different exits? I just assumed that one side of the road went east and the other west. Wrong! -and that is why I initially had trouble finding wineries that were on different parts of the same road. There are over 26,000 vineyard acres and almost 170 wineries in the Paso Robles area. I didn’t travel farther south into the rest of San Luis Obispo county which is the 3rd largest wine producing county in California with more than 200 wineries. That will be on the menu for my next story when I travel north from Los Angeles. I visited Peachy Canyon Winery, Turley Wine Cellars, Tablas Creek Vineyard, Zenaida Cellars, Lone Madrone, Eberle Winery, Meridian Vineyards and Eagle Castle Wine Cellar (shaped like a giant European castle). It was easy finding downtown Paso Robles as well as my dinner at Artisan Restaurant with the couple that founded First Crush. They explained that it is the perfect weekend blend of fun, work, relaxation and a luxurious wine making safari. First Crush winemaking experience will take aspiring winemakers into a Paso Robles vineyard where they will harvest your own wine grapes. They will crush and de-stem their fruit and then have numerous opportunities to participate in its transformation into a custom-made, privately labeled wine.
In less than an hour I arrived at Hearst Castle. Had I gone directly from Monterey using Route 1 it would have been 90 miles of the most dramatic coastline in the US. Tour 1 is recommended for first-time visitors as it provides a broad overview of the many facets of Hearst Castle and it is the least physically strenuous of the tours. Its duration is 1 hour and 45 minutes, which includes the bus ride to and from the castle. Tour 1 includes the companion movie, Hearst Castle Building the Dream, shown on the giant 5-story screen in the Hearst Castle Theater. Included are visits to the Esplanade & Gardens with their marble sculptures & flowers. Casa Del Sol is the 18-room guesthouse. The Neptune Pool (outdoors) and Roman Pool (indoors) are also included in the tour as is the Casa Grande or main house. Completed in 1947 (after 28 years of construction) William Randolph Hearst had created an estate of 165 rooms and 127 acres of gardens, terraces, pools and walkways. It is now known as the Hearst San Simeon State Historical Monument and is administrated as a state park.
In about 4 hours I was at San Francisco airport to overnight before returning to New York City. In 8 days I never had any traffic problems and the weather ranged from 98 degrees my first two days to the low 50’s during a few nights. I drove over 800 miles and did not have a single problem. Can you say that about your trip?
For Further Information:
www.centralcoast-tourism.com
www.gilroyvisitor.org
www.santacruzcounty.travel
www.hearstcastle.com
www.labellaserra.com
www.carmelcalifornia.org
www.tastemonterey.com
www.montereyinfo.org
www.montereybayaquarium.org
www.laubergecarmel.com
www.wineriesofsantaclaravalley.com
www.gilroygardens.org
www.vinocruz.com
www.vinoprima.biz
www.crowsnest-santacruz.com
www.thecenterstreetgrill.com
www.bonnydoonvineyard.com
www.adobeongreen.com
www.beachboardwalk.com
www.egyptianmuseum.org
www.scmwa.com
www.michaelmina.net/arcadia
www.intercontinental.com/montereyic
www.montereywines.org
www.canneryrow.com
www.thetech.org
www.winchestermysteryhouse.com
www.vintagewinemerchants.com
www.thevillagebistro.net
www.postranchinn.com
www.bernardus.com
www.pebblebeach.com
www.pasowine.com
www.artisanpasorobles.com
www.santanarow.com
www.sanjosemarriott .com
www.ccwga.org
Adventure touring a new game in Laughlin
Posted by clayton, under Journal Articles
Adventure Touring New Game in Laughlin
By Bobbie Green
Laughlin offers tourist more than gaming and boating. The surrounding area is an experience waiting to happen. Yet not many people realize the day trips and experiences awaiting them if they choose, including family friendly outings.
We chose to learn some of the area history by taking a fun Sand Rail Tour, with Laughlin Adventure Tours, taking us back in time through “Secret Pass” located on the Arizona side of the river. “Imagine its early 1900’s” our tour guide is saying as we drive through the narrow pass viewing the Native American lookout posts in the cliffs. It seems a tribe of Hualapai hid their village in this canyon not wanting to be found and put on a reservation.
The Secret Pass tour is given only during dry weather as you may be standing at the bottom of hopefully dry waterfalls and able to see the Indians escape routes. Slot canyons and seasonal water falls are a memorable part of the tour. The pass ends in the spot where the village stood. The sand rails are safe and accessible to everyone, even to the limited handicapped. No problem for seniors. There is walking involved at Secret Pass if you choose to do it. If you want to walk through the slot canyons wear closed toe tennis or hiking shoes. Tourists have a choice of driving a 4×4 or sand rail, beginners will receive instruction.
In stark contrast, breakfast or lunch which is included in the tour is at the modern luxurious Laughlin Ranch Clubhouse overlooking the beautiful award winning golf course, the clubhouse itself won the 2007 Clubhouse of the year in Golf Inc.
Another tour being offered is to the old mining town of Oatman. Of course you may drive your own car and see it on your own as many do or you may choose to add a little adventure and get there off road on a 4×4 or sand rail, with a guide of course, either way the town is worth a visit. When gold and silver was discovered in 1863 in what is now Mohave County, the mining camps sprang to life. The Blue Ridge Camp, later renamed Oatman has survived the mine closings, the road by-passing and progression of wild burros that have made Oatman their home. Today it is an authentic ghost town with a population of approximately 150 folks catering to tourist who have made the fun little town the number one tourist attraction in the Tri-State Area. The community has endeared themselves to the wild burros who still roam the streets, taking care of them and preserving the town, its history and spirit. The shop owners and operators are artists creating their own products, writers and historians, keeping the Wild West alive through their live performances of gunfights and costumed dancers. The local population are not people who were born and raised in Oatman , but come from all parts of the world each with their own knowledge and expertise and have chosen to live in Oatman. While in the area, Oatman is a definite not to be missed stop and fun for all ages. During the hot summer months Laughlin Adventure tours takes visitors to Oaman in an air conditioned van instead of the sand rail, the driver still takes back roads giving area info to passengers.
While in Laughlin we stayed at the newly refurbished Aquarius Hotel and Casino in their wonderful Sunset Suites with floor to ceiling windows providing a great view of the river and the strip. We dined in their restaurants and found them all to be very recommendable. Who can resist Outback’s Blooming Onion? The buffet room has large windows providing a river view-we found it a pleasant place to dine.
Golfers are not left out, there are six nearby courses four of which are championship courses. The Riverside Resort offers a shuttle to all the courses except Rivers Edge.
Highway 95 from Boulder City through Searchlight, with the exception of a very short stretch has been widened to 4 lanes making the drive much more appealing. Midweek travel offers the best prices and least crowds.
Laughlin is holding their annual “River Regatta” August 28 and 29th. Grab inter tubes or any type of raft, don’t forget your water gun, and float down the river with hundreds of others, sounds like terrific fun to me, the Aquarius Hotel is offering package deals including the inner tubes and life jackets.
IF YOU GO
Laughlin Visitors Bureau
1800-452-8445
Oatman Chamber of Commerce
928-768-6222
Laughlin Adventure Tours
702-298-2345
www.laughlinadventuretours.com
Aquarius Casino Resort
800-662-luck
Cincinnati & Civil Rights Baseball Game Weekend
Posted by clayton, under Journal Articles
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Writers Rock in Cleveland
Posted by Bobbie Green, under Journal Articles
Writers Rock in Cleveland
By Bobbie Green
Here we were, a group of approximately 130 travel writers and Public relations people from the North American Travel Writers Association wandering through the “closed to the public” legendary Cleveland Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum. Awesomely privileged is how each of us feels. No rushing, no crowds, the “A” band is performing rock & roll hits in the lobby for our dancing and listening pleasure adding to the total-experience atmosphere of the great musical legends we were encountering and learning about in this interactive museum.
The open bar and deserts are hosted by “Positively Cleveland” the Cleveland convention and visitors bureau. These wonderful “perks” make up for the continuous 12-hour days, with no more than 30 minutes to change clothes and brush your teeth in the life of a travel writer. No complaint intended, I love my job, just the facts.
The unique design of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame is a sight to behold, especially at night with the lights shining through the glass structure. Visitors if possible, time your visit at sunset.
The question I was most asked before leaving Mesquite was “Why are you going to Cleveland?” “Positively Cleveland” positively answered that question for me and all the other travel writers with a whirlwind tour of their city. Time did not allow us to see all they had to offer, but what we did encounter gave us a new and positive opinion of Cleveland and its many unexpected culture and tourist attractions.
Visitors will discover Cleveland has the second largest performing arts center in the nation, Playhouse Square. University Circle host the most concentrated square mile of arts, culture and educational institutions in the country, all of the beautiful buildings are located in an easy-walk park setting.
For ethnic culture and cuisine the iconic neo-classical West Side Market is a landmark. It is the oldest publicly-owned market in the city with 180 vendors who have been there for generations selling their cultural heritage foods, from Hungarian Sausage to Slavic pierogis. Go there hungry so you can try everything. It is crowded, noisy and fun.
Families will not want to miss the Cleveland Metroparks Zoo. Located on 165 wooded acres they have everything from the rainforest to the Australian outback. Of course Ralphie Parker’s house from A Christmas Story (now a museum) is located in Cleveland and no child at heart wants to miss seeing Red Ryder BB guns and Little Orphan Annie decoder rings. The Great Lakes Science Center located next door to the Hall of Fame is not to be missed especially if you have children.
The six-story high Omnimax Threater also located in the center will thrill adults and children alike. Soaring over the Great Lakes is an experience I won’t soon forget.
A visit to Cleveland would not be complete without a visit to Little Italy where you may dine Italian style in generational family owned restaurants. I can personally recommend Gusto’s- the food is “magnifico” and is served Italian style with live accordion music by the owner. On your visit you must not forget a brewery like the Great Lakes Brewing Company, they offer tours of the brewery, in their restaurant one can see the bullet hole that was meant for Eliot Ness while he was seated at the bar.
Cleveland has not forgotten its sports fans with games at Quicken Field and Browns Stadium.
Still rocking in Cleveland we writers weren’t finish yet. On our last night there we again were treated to another private party this time at the House of Blues. After our Southern Style dinner, we were treated to a performance for our listening and dancing pleasure by their Sunday Morning Gospel Group. I did not count them, but the stage was full of singer and back up music. We were told they were going to “raise the roof” and they did again and again, yet another unreal and totally awesome experience for us. The singers were thrilling and moving, when in Cleveland one must not miss the House of Blues Gospel Brunch on Sundays, where the “Raise the Roof” Prayer Warriors perform.
Why did I go to Cleveland? To Rock, man, positively to rock.
HELL’S CANYON RIVER ADVENTURE
Posted by Bobbie Green, under Journal Articles
Hells Canyon River Adventure
By Bobbie Green
Eagerly we stepped into the jet boat, looking forward to our adventure upstream on the free-flowing Snake River through the deepest gorge in North America, Hells Canyon, bordering Oregon and Idaho. Early explorers referred to the gorge as Box Canyon or the Snake River Canyon, but it is referenced as Hells Canyon in books and journals as early as 1895. Fortunately for us, when congress designated this area a National Recreation Area in 1975 they also allowed for power boats to be used, leaving this area accessible to those of us not able to hike or paddle a boat in.
Admittedly I had visions of shear cliff walls lining the river edge like Lake Powell. Instead there is a fair amount of beach area on the banks and the mountains rise with a slower ascend, allowing better observation of various geological structures in the terrain and wild life. Our jet boat captain is also our guide. His family owns the fishing lodge where we will be eating our lunch 80 miles into the canyon. He has been piloting boats on this river since he was 11 years old. We were happy to hear this information since the forest service advises only people who know this river should pilot their own boats here and they must have a permit.
As we entered Hells Canyon the land roads end. Anyplace in the canyon could now only be reached by boat, helicopter, horseback there are hiking trails in some parts of the canyon. Near the entrance to the canyon before the designated National Recreation Area are river front lots, some still for sale, with an interesting array of homes built on them, however one must be of a hardy nature to have a place here. Accessible only by boat, all wood for building, food and water must be hauled in. There is no electricity and no sewage systems. Outhouses are plainly visible behind the homes. There is an American flag flying from each property, peace and solitude reign here, with the exception of a daily mail boat. Soon the houses stop and pristine wilderness surround the rugged river with only a small forest station midway.
Our trip up river was slow with informative narration along the way, while keeping a keen eye out for wildlife. Bighorn sheep were once plentiful in the canyon and a source of food, clothing and tools for the Nez Perce Indians, the Bighorn died out after domestic sheep were brought in by the early settlers. Since 1971 wildlife biologist, parts of FNAWS have been transplanting bighorn back in the canyon as part of their conservation efforts. Some of the other wildlife to be seen are wild turkey, deer, elk and black bear. Various birds like osprey, Canada geese, mallard ducks, magpies, blue herons and eagles if you’re lucky. The remains of the old 1900’s copper mining town Eureka can be seen on the hillside.
Amazingly we skimmed over the waters surface including class I, II and III rapids. Most of the passengers were pleased by the absence of feeling the rapids; I however missed the thrill of the bouncing. We passed by Mountain Sheep Rapids we could see the iron rings low on the mountain wall where the paddlewheel ships of the 1900’s needed the rope lines to help pull them selves up through the rapids as they did not have enough power. The Paddlewheel Imnaha built by the mining company to haul their product and supplies, wrecked on its 13th run over the rapids using the pulls. A boat hand threw the line over the uphill side of the boat instead of the downhill side and it caught in the paddlewheel leaving the ship steering powerless. She was turned on her side and finally rested sideways in a narrow part of the river as the rapids bashed her. All the people aboard were saved but the animals were not. She is still there in 65 feet of water. We saw evidence left by the prehistoric and historic peoples of long ago in the nature of petroglyphs and pictographs on the rocks.
When we reached the Kirby Creek Lodge we were treated to a bountiful home cooked spread and treated as special guest. Fisherman and river rafter come and stay overnight at the lodge. This lodge is still situated in the wilderness of the canyon with supplies brought by boat and outhouses for public use, indoor plumbing for overnight guest. The guest rooms are very basic and shared baths are down the hall. This is the only lodge on private land in Hells Canyon it was grandfathered in when the National Recreation area was designated. Some guests come to ride the class IV and V rapids in the 27 miles between Kirby Creek Lodge and Hells Canyon Dam, the only part of the canyon we did not travel through.
On the way back, with the exception of a few stops to point out wildlife or pictographs our jet boat pilot let her rip. This was exciting. The whole trip was an experience to remember and an easy way, maybe, the only way, for some tourist young and old to answer a call of the wild.
If You Go
Hells Canyon NRA Snake River Office
509-426-3916
Snake River Adventures/ Kirby Lodge
800-262-8874
Columbia River Itinerary