Archive for the ‘Journal Articles’ Category

Discover Seafaring History in Connecticut.

By Bobbie Green                                                               

For more than one hundred and seventy years, this diminutive stone fortress has stood
guard over the port of Stonington, Connecticut.  This lighthouse went out of service in 1989,
but still stands guard over the rich seafaring history of this part of the
eastern seaboard.

Thelighthouse itself is a treasure, built in 1840 now preserves the regional
history of the area. Visitors can climb the 29 stone steps to the top. The
towers steps are narrow and winding inside what looks like an ice cave,
unique!  The view from the 30- foot high tower overlooks the harbor and three states, Connecticut, Rhode Island and New York.

Inside the attached keeper’s house, the six rooms serve as a museum.  The exhibits explore 360 years of sailors, sea captains and local entrepreneurs.

Seafaring artifacts from children’s toys to harpoons fill the rooms. The museum sets just
steps away from scenic du Boise swimming Beach.                                 
One  interesting subject was Nathaniel Brown Palmer, a Stonington sea captain at the
young age of 21, was the first to sight and record the continent of Antarctica.
In 1850 Nathaniel and his brother Alexander built an elegant very modern home
in town called Pine Point.  The octagonal cupola overlooks all of Stonington and the harbor. Their wives could watch for their husband’s ship returning home.   It is also open to the public for tours and is worth a visit to discover the lifestyle of a clipper ship captain.

Going from the historical seafaring past to the historical seafaring future, we visited
the USS Nautilus, the pride of the 50’s and the historic future of nuclear
powered submarines.  The museum is as impressive as the vessel.  The Submarine
Force Museum is located on the Thames River in Groton Connecticut and considered the world’s finest collection of submarine artifacts.

The Nautilus was the world’s first nuclear powered ship and the first to sail to the North
Pole, under the polar ice cap and surfaced near Greenland in 1958.   Unlike earlier submarines, she could stay submerged for over two weeks.                                                              

The USS Nautilus carried 11 officers and 105 crewmembers. There sleeping quarters were
very confined. She was in service for 26 years and decommissioned in March of
1980. You can acquire all the information you want to know about her at this
museum. The on-board visits are limited to specific areas. Designated a
National isH      Historic Landmark for her pioneering role in Nuclear power, the USS Nautilus is open to tours at her home in Groton, where her keel was first laid in 1952.

Along with Nautilus information, there is a variety of other artifacts in the museum. I
was fascinated with David Bushnell’s Turtle. It was the first of the “Silent Service” vessels and used during the Revolutionary war. It was a one-man unit
used to place mines under enemy ships.

The Mystic Aquarium is nearby. It is relatively small compared to some others, but if you
have the time, they have a rare, one in a million, live blue lobster on view.

Connecticut is such a small state, exploring its many attractions are easily accomplished from
one or two strategically located hotels.  We found the Residence Inn Marriott Mystic
Groton most convenient to the many area attractions. The friendly staff also
served a free breakfast and a light dinner. We certainly could not find a
better deal.

Exploring Connecticut’s Mystic Seaport

By Bobbie Green

The Seaport
is a working shipyard since 1837. In 1929 the adjacent Mystic seaport was
founded to actively pursue, collect, preserve artifacts and skills related to
maritime history. The significant word here is skills.

Unlike other museums, that displays artifacts, Mystic village shows the visitor a complete
way of life.  Enlightens us that in the
1800’s everything required for survival, was constructed by themselves. They
not only display the heavy roping for ships rigging but they have a long
ropewalk house where first the string was made to then weave into rope. 

The cask or barrel shop showed us the skill of the cooper needed to make these necessary,
hand carved cask that fit together tight enough to hold liquid and preserve the
food  on the long voyages. Learning the             
pains taking way they did it is amazing. 

 In most of the many maritime shops, that depicts the life and history of the early seaport dwellers, there is a docent ready to show and tell.

The newspaper office had some of the first presses used and we learned the
differences in type setting between the early models. Setting type upside down
and backwards had to be an arduous job.

There is a figueheads gallery displaying the carved billetheads and catheads of all kinds,
from the early ships.

The atmosphere in the village is that of Disneyland a fun and happy place, great
for families and a learning experience for all. 
There are strolling musicians and singers.  A unique spectacle not to miss is the Dead
Horse Ceremony aboard the Joseph Conrad (a full rigged ship) at the village
landing. It is for all kids young and old. A songster boards with a stuffed
horse and proceeds to tell a story in song ending with the physical hanging of
the horse from the ships yardarm.

One of my favorite exhibits in the Mallory exhibit hall is the Skin & Bones Tattoos.  There we learned about the symbolism and superstitions about some of America’s maritime tattoos, why sailors began
getting them. Many sailors had their name tattooed on themselves for body
identification.  A tattoo was earned after crossing the equator. A tattoo of a pig on top of the left foot and a
rooster on top of the right foot would protect a sailor from drowning; since neither animal can swim, they would find land fast. There were hundreds of tattoos along with their meanings.

Luck was with us, while enjoying a visit to Mystic Seaport, the Charles W. Morgan,  last remaining wooden whale ship was there in dry dock for preservation. She is being restored below the water line to parts
that have not been seen for 160 years.                              

What a special experience for us visitors. We were able to climb aboard and see
first-hand the skills needed to build a vessel like her.  She took only nine months to build in 1841.

The Charles W. Morgan is a 350-ton commercial wooden whale ship that has survived all of
her kind. In her day, she sailed 37 whaling voyages from 8.5 months to 11 months
long.  She carried a crew of 35 with five whaleboats. She could carry 3,000 barrels (or 90,000 gallons) of whale oil.

It is hard to believe these tiny ships in comparison to our huge 2,000-ton ships today,
sailed and survived the open seas.

How hardy the crew had to be to live in these cramped quarters for so many months at a
time.  We had to duck through doorways and squeeze through ladder openings. Even the captain’s quarters were unbelievably small, only captains were allowed to bring their wives along if they wished. I
cannot believe any went willingly. On the long months at sea, the crew would carve on the whale teeth and baleen. This whaleman’s art called Scrimshaw is on display in the Mystic Museum.

After her 80-year career, the Charles W. Morgan retired in 1921. She is now part of
history and being preserved for our awareness.

Exploring Las Vegas History in Neon

By Bobbie Green 

Have you been to visit the Boneyard?—known also as the Neon Museum in Las Vegas. Old timers and newcomers to the area will appreciate the fun and interesting history learned in this short 2-hour tour.

The Neon Museum is a non-profit organization first established in 1966. Its mission is to collect, preserve, study and exhibit neon signs and associated artifacts to inspire educational and cultural enrichment for diverse members of the Las Vegas international community.

In my terminology, they are preserving the history of Las Vegas through the bright, wonderfully colored neon that has played such an important part in the development of Las Vegas since the 1930’s.

The museum site is located on Las Vegas Blvd. just off the I-15 freeway. Although the site is far from its final vision, tours are conducted by appointment only.  You must have a reservation ahead of time.  They are presently restoring, on site, the lobby of the old La Concha Hotel; it will be home to the museum. Famed architect Paul Revere Williams designed the unique Structure. The completed site should happen in the spring of 2012.

The signs, arranged in an area order–from downtown to mom & pop out area and the strip. The guide will give a little narrative history of the signs and let you guess where they are from.  Many of the signs are waiting for refurbishment,   placement and to be lit up once again.

In the Boneyard you will see the original 1930’s Green Shack Fried Chicken Sign, d learn that Bugsy Siegel was not the first out-of-towner, with a vision,  to establish a club on the strip. You will learn how a Californian, Guy Macafee opened the Pair-o-Dice Club on old Highway 91 in 1939, before Bugsy came along.   Historians say Macafee dubbed Highway 91 “The Strip” after the Sunset Strip in California where his previous club was.

Walking among the signs, I was amazed at just how huge they really are.

Part of the fun was hearing the comments made by the other visitors. The Neon Museum considers itself a living museum and many signs now in use, are pledged to the museum upon retirement–keeping up the history. Some signs are left anonymously at their gates. One such sign, although not from Las Vegas, has found a home in the boneyard is from St George, Utah . It is the original China Garden Chinese Restaurant sign. They decided the Pretty Asian Lady on the sign could stay.

Restored signs decorate the center divider on Fremont Street and along Las Vegas Blvd, creating what I call a Las Vegas style historic Route 66. I liked seeing the silver slipper all lit-up again. The oversized silver slipper that Howard Hughes had removed because he thought it contained hidden cameras to spy on him, when he was living on the top floors of the Desert Inn directly across from the Silver Slipper.

Just when you think Las Vegas has lost its uniqueness, it once again begins displaying its own brand of distinctiveness and adhering to its own motto, what happens in Vegas (the neon) stays in Vegas. I love it.

IF YOU GO

Neon Museum

Tuesdays-Saturday only

702-387-6366

www.neonmuseum.org

Battle at Atlantis-Basketball, Sun and Surf

By Ron Kapon 

New Providence (21 miles long and 7 miles wide) is the island home of Nassau, the capital of the Bahamas and is located in the middle of the Bahamas archipelago of over 700 islands. These islands start within 50 miles of Miami and stretch hundreds of miles to the northern coasts of Haiti and Cuba. Only about 35 or so are populated with Nassau, Freeport and Paradise Island hosting most of the tourists. About two thirds of the population of around 260,000 live on New Providence. The city shopping area is compact and easy to leisurely explore on foot. I do not recommend renting a scooter unless you are used to driving on the left side of the road. When the cruise ships dock at Prince George Wharf in the downtown area one can stroll the city and look for bargains in the shops along Bay Street and in the straw markets. U.S. currency is accepted and is interchangeable with the Bahamian dollar.
 
European settlers first came to the Bahamas in 1648. By the late 17th century the Bahamas were full of pirates such as Edward Teach (Blackbeard). The British managed to bring the islands under control and the Bahamas became a colony of Great Britain in 1728. During the Revolutionary War, British Loyalists who left America settled in Nassau, many bringing their slaves with them. In 1776 the American Navy briefly captured Nassau. The islands are still part of the British Commonwealth of nations and British culture and traditions are seen in Nassau (they drive on the left side of the road). The U.S. captured Nassau and held it for two weeks during the Revolutionary War. The Bahamas also were involved with the United States during two storied eras of our past–gun-running during the War Between the States, and rum-running during Prohibition. They were granted internal self-government in 1964 and on July 10, 1973, the Bahamas became an independent nation with Prince Charles attending the ceremony. On the proclamation of independence Queen Elizabeth II became Queen of The Bahamas and Her representative, the Governor, became Governor General of The Bahamas.
 
There is no way to avoid coming through Bay Street from the airport on the way to the toll bridge into the 4-mile-wide Paradise Island. Atlantis Paradise Island is a 3,400-room resort with 40 restaurants created by South African hotel magnate Sol Kerzner. The Coral and Beach Towers were first opened as Resorts International, changing its name to Atlantis when the Royal Towers were built in 1998. The 1,201 room Royal Towers contains the 10 room “Bridge Suite,” maybe the most expensive hotel room in the world at $25,000 a night. In 2007 a 600-suite luxury hotel named The Cove Atlantis opened (with a Bobby Flay Mesa Grill) as well as the 497-room Reef Atlantis, which is a condominium hotel residence. The resort contains a marina designed to dock large yachts. The eastern side of the marina features the Marina Village which is a small shopping center featuring numerous restaurants and stores. The Harborside Resort at Atlantis is located on the south side of the marina and consists of 392 villas and a harbor-front restaurant, enjoying all-day shuttle service to Atlantis. If the Coral and Beach Towers are “Coach,” the Royal Towers is Business Class. If the Cove and The Reef are First Class there remains the One Only Ocean Club as “Private Jet.” There is an 18-hole golf course with a Jean-Georges Vongerichten Dune Restaurant. Jean-Georges has also opened Café Martinique in Marina Village serving classic French gourmet fare. The casino is the largest in the Caribbean with a Nobu Restaurant next to its entrance.
 
Trying to describe the water activities is impossible. I stayed 4 days and got to only a half-dozen. There are 20 swimming areas, 12 different pools, 3 miles of beach, a health spa, fitness center, tennis and basketball courts, 12 rock climbing surfaces and a seven-acre snorkeling lagoon. Aquaventure was opened in 2007 and the 141-acre, 200 million gallon Aquaventure combines slides, lazy rivers, and rapids into one large waterscape. The centerpiece of the attraction is the Power Tower, which contains four waterslides. The slides include The Abyss, The Drop, The Falls and The Surge (you can guess which one I tried). Aquaventure also includes The Current, a mile long, three million gallon water ride complete with waves and artificial tidal surges (which I braved). At the Royal Towers is the Mayan Temple entertainment attraction consisting of 4 major slides: Leap of Faith, the Challenger Slides, the Serpent Slide, and the Jungle Slide. The Dig is a series of aquariums located beneath the lobby of the Royal Towers and is the world’s largest open-air marine habitat. Hundreds of different aquatic species can be spotted in the Dig’s various tanks such as angelfish, sharks, manta rays and various types of jellyfish. If one observes the bottom of the floors in the different aquariums, wreckage and debris will be scattered about representing the “Lost City of Atlantis.” A Predator Lagoon is full of sawfish, barracuda and stingray, which I did not try. A 100-foot clear acrylic tunnel runs underwater, allowing visitors unobstructed views of the marine environment. Dolphin Cay is the 14-acre dolphin interaction and education center. It is home to 16 displaced Hurricane Katrina dolphins. There is shallow and deep interaction along with sea lion programs. When the kids are not in the water there are activities that free up the parents. Included are: Atlantis Kids Adventure with movies, games, computers, culinary kitchen and arts and crafts for kids ages 3-12. Club Rush is a fully supervised “No Adults” tweens club. Recently opened are Crush, a state-of-the-art teen club for ages 13-17 with an interactive Internet lounge, gaming stadium and 1,500 square-foot dance club.
 
Atlantis LIVE- In the last few years, Atlantis has made an effort to host concerts and other events. In 2010, Jerry Seinfeld performed at the Atlantis resort as well as the Jonas Brothers, Taylor Swift, Justin Bieber, NSYNC, etc. Miss Teen USA 2008 took place at the resort and in 2009 the 58th Miss Universe pageant was held at Atlantis, the first time in the Bahamas.
 
Now a description of the basketball tourney Battle at Atlantis with a pitch from Yours Truly:
 
A basketball team can play in a “Qualifying Regular-Season Multiple-Team Event” (commonly referred to as a “QRMTE” or an “Exempt Event”). They can play either 27 contests and one QRMTE or 29 contests during a season in which the team does not participate in a QRMTE. Basically, the NCAA permits schools to play 29 regular season games, but schools can play up to 31 games in the regular season by participating in a QRMTE/Exempt Event (27 regular season games, plus 3 or 4 in the event).
 
NCAA Bylaw 17.3.5.1.1, currently defines a QRMTE/Exempt Event as one in which: (a) the event is sponsored by the NCAA, an active or affiliated member institution or a member conference of the NCAA and must take place in Canada, Mexico or the United States or one of its territories; (b) the event includes no more than four contests per school and concludes not later than 14 days after the first contest of the event; (c) participation is limited, by conference, to one team per conference and, by school, to not more than once in the same event in any 4-year period; and (d) each participating institution is using 27 games plus the QRMTE/Exempt Event as its maximum contest limitation for that season. Proposed legislation would add The Bahamas to the list of territories in item (a) above.

Editors Note- After I wrote this article the NCAA gave the Bahamas exempt status, clearing the way for the island nation to host a new holiday tournament that organizers hope will become the East Coast version of the Maui Invitational. The legislation goes into effect August 1, 2011. There are already preliminary plans in place to hold an eight-team tournament of Division 1 schools over Thanksgiving weekend.
 
Coaches want more games, not less, so none play in non-exempt tournaments. A few years ago there were 10 exempt tournaments and today there are almost 50 Invitationals, Classics, Challenges and Shootouts. Go ahead; name a half dozen of them. The Great Alaskan Shootout and the Rainbow Classic in Hawaii were started in the 1960s to help ease the scheduling problems of non-mainland schools. Now, both of these tournaments are in danger of being discontinued. The NCAA now owns the NIT Season Tip-Off. In 2010 I have watched the Coaches vs. Cancer and NIT tournament in New York as well as the Puerto Rico Tip-Off, Maui Invitational (Editors Note- Matt Mahar, the Chaminade Athletic Director & coach is the younger son of Buddy Mahar who was a friend when he coached at Columbia College), Cancun Challenge, Old Spice Classic (Orlando) and CBE Classic in Kansas City.
 
One coach told me at Battle of Atlantis: we get money for our program; the kids get game experience and play on neutral courts, they get a chance to bond, as a team, and see interesting sites, and it is great for recruiting. In mid-December I was invited (3 nights hotel and most meals were covered, plus my press credentials for the games) to cover  “Battle of Atlantis” with Virginia Tech playing Mississippi State and Georgia Tech playing Richmond in two non-exempt games (Note- Seth Greenberg, the VPI head coach, has been a friend since his early coaching days also at Columbia College. I first met Dennis Wolfe, former head coach at Boston University, and now an assistant at Virginia Tech, at a basketball camp in 1974).
 
George Markantonis President and Managing Director of Kerzner International Bahamas spoke at the Friday night team banquet: “We spent more than a year finding the four teams, purchasing the hardwood floor that met NCAA standards and the baskets and lights. The games were held in the convention center that hosted the 2009 Miss Universe Pageant as well as our live concerts. We have set up seating for up to 4.500 with food and souvenir concessions set up outside the ballroom. The NCAA Legislative Council will make a decision in January regarding our exempt status and then the NCAA member schools vote. If passed, there will be an eight-team tournament next year with four or five top-level teams and the remainder of the field will come from smaller schools and conferences.”
 
The Bahamas are a basketball crazy nation and Mr. Markantonis promised that some of the profits from future tournaments would be used to build a basketball court for every school in the Bahamas. By the way, Rick Fox, former Los Angeles Laker player was at the games. He is from the Bahamas. Len Elmore, former NBA player and ESPN college basketball analyst, also spoke at the Friday night team dinner.
 
The Bahamas are less than a three-hour non-stop flight from New York City and less than an hour from Florida. All four teams were from the Eastern Seaboard area, which worked for everyone concerned. Atlantis even opened Aquaventure an hour early on Sunday so the teams could try out the facilities before returning to the U.S. This was a first class experience for the players, fans and press. I hope they invite me back in the future.

For More Information- www.atlantis.com or 1-800-ATLANTIS

The Sporting Life in Las Vegas

By Ron Kapon

When I mentioned I was invited to Las Vegas for five days, the first thing people asked was “do you like to gamble?” Then it was what shows are you seeing? Lastly it was “where are you eating, and what wines will you be drinking?”But I had to tell everyone that my Las Vegas Overtime Guaranteed Tour was all about sports. The MGM Grand Hotel & Casino was my host for four nights. I unwound in their spa in the steam room, sauna and whirlpool. Let the games begin. 

By the time you read this USA Sevens Rugby Tournament & Fan Festival will have taken place at Sam Boyd Stadium. The home of University of Nevada, Las Vegas football team has been converted into a field for the largest Rugby event held in North America. There are 16 international teams competing. Rugby Sevens feature seven players per team rather than the 15 players often used. There are two seven-minute halves and a new match starts every 20 minutes. According to John Hinkin the Competition Manager for USA, Sevens the Rugby World Cup is surpassed in attendance only by Soccer’s World Cup and the Olympics.

www.usasevens.com

Although I’m not a golfer myself I enjoyed having lunch with Brian Hawthorne, the director of golf at Wynn Las Vegas. Built on the site of the old Desert Inn, the 18 holes of golf is right on the Strip with 11 of the holes having a water element. More than 800,000 cubic inches of earth were moved to create the elevated fairways. Its location enables high rollers to play their 18 holes and not have to spend hours going to and coming back from courses located out of the center of town.

www.wynnlasvegas.com

From gold to fast cars. Penske/Wynn has an authorized Ferrari/Maserati dealer showroom right in the hotel.  The basement is a sort of museum for exotic cars, but you can buy a car and drive it off the showroom floor here.

www.penskewynnferrari.com

Staying at Wynn Las Vegas we visited Johnny Avello, the Executive Director of Race and Sports operations. Even for a non-gambler, he is known as the dean of all Vegas betting authorities. Gamblers can watch the action on one of 37 plasma TVs and three 12-foot-by-12-foot big screens. All of the race bettors have Interactive Personal Terminal machines at their seats, allowing them to place bets on horse races without having to go to the betting windows.

www.wynnlasvegas.com

We were taken to the Palm Casino Resort (owned by the Maloof brothers who operate the Sacramento Kings NBA team). When I walked into the Palms Hardwood Suites my heart started to work overtime. I love drinking and writing about wine, but my other passion is basketball. This is the only suite in the world with an indoor basketball court. Covering 10,000 square feet on two floors, there is a locker room, scoreboard and pool table. For the kids, there are three NBA-sized Murphy beds on the basketball court. There is NBA memorabilia, a large dining area, living/media room, Jacuzzi tub, and 42″ plasma TVs. It was hard to get our crew to leave as chefs brought snacks and a half-court basketball game broke out.

www.palms.com

After a change of clothes we headed out for a tour of the MGM Grand’s Race & Sports Book. It is a 5,300-square-foot betting arena with seating for 104 guests, thirty-six 60-inch plasma televisions and twenty-four 42-inch plasmas. There are six electronic display boards and 17 separate race and sports betting counters. Most of the main floor seats are outfitted with individual 15-inch color televisions, allowing guests to access worldwide racing and sporting events. This is the first Race and Sports book in the industry to offer “Skyboxes” available for eight to ten guests. The four Skyboxes contain 42-inch plasma televisions and great views of the Race & Sports Book.

www.mgmgrand.com

We walked across the bridge over Las Vegas Boulevard to dinner at The Sporting House Bar & Grill in New York, New York Hotel & Casino. There are 130 high-definition televisions and interactive games to play here.

www.newyorknewyork.com

Day two began with a drive to the Las Vegas Motor Speedway and the Exotics Racing School. You have the opportunity to drive their fleet of Ferrari, Lamborghini, Aston Martin, Porsche or Audi cars on a racetrack. There is 1-on-1 coaching from instructors, but you are doing the driving. It is priced from $199 to $299 for 5 laps around the track. There was a half-hour classroom instruction before we split up and met our instructors. I chose a ride in a Corvette Z06 and its 505HP 7.1L V8 engine. I don’t know how fast we were going in the two laps around the track, but my driver told me they had to change the tires every hour.  I met David Perisset (former investment banker) and his partner Karim Hussain (former race car driver) who have expanded their operations to California and will add several more locations in 2011.

www.exoticsracing.com

City Center had just opened the last time I was in Las Vegas. It is huge with retail, residential, entertainment and three hotels: The Mandarin Oriental, ARIA Hotel & Casino and Vdara Hotel & Spa. We were taken to the Skybox Sports Bar at ARIA for lunch and to taste the spiciest burger in America, “The Firecracker Burger.” One bite and I voted it the spiciest in the world. We watched the Baltimore Ravens vs. Pittsburgh Steelers game (Steelers won) and after a change of clothes it was dinnertime.

www.citycenter.com

www.arialasvegas.com

Dinner was at Blondie’s Sports Bar at Planet Hollywood. It is located in the Miracle Mile Shopping area and has 40 screens up to 12 feet. It was the Green Bay packers vs. Atlanta Falcons game (Green Bay). The Miss America Pageant was taking place at Planet Hollywood at the same time and I managed a back stage pass to see the contestants. No cameras allowed….

www.blondieslasvegas.com

www.planethollywoodresorts.com

After dinner was my first visit to downtown Las Vegas in 10 years. I was given the opportunity to fly over Fremont Street on Flightlines Zipline. It costs $20 at night (less during the day) and you take an elevator up 5 floors for the starting point. I must admit I almost dropped out when I looked down and saw all those people way down there.  I was going to scream but when I was pushed off the platform all I could think off was hold on tight. They caught me at the platform on the other side. What an adrenaline rush. Riders can achieve speeds of 25 mph on the lines.

www.vegasexxperience.com

We started our Sunday with brunch at B.B. King’s at the Mirage. It was play-off game number three between the Seattle Seahawks and the Chicago Bears (Bears). The King himself does perform here once a year.

www.bbkingclubs.com

We were taken to The Palazzo and Lagasse’s Stadium to watch the only game that really counted for me; New York Jets vs. New England Patriots (Jets). Lagasse’s Stadium combines Emeril Lagasse’s cuisine with more than 100 HD TVs including a 9-foot x 16 foot main TV, luxury boxes, plush stadium-style seating, billiard tables and an outdoor patio. I was still full from lunch but this was the ultimate game day experience. If there is a more beautiful sports bar out there please let me know.

www.palazzo.com/lagasse.aspx

Then it was off to Caesars and the Rainman Suite (part of the movie was filmed here). Here we met 26 year old Todd Fuhrman, Caesars Race and Sports Book Analyst. How someone so young could reach his position defies logic. But after talking to him and touring backstage at his Sports Book I realized he was “the man.” By the way, his aunt is the President of Teachers College in New York City so the apple did not fall far from the tree. The Race Book at Caesars Palace offers 65 private booths and each booth contains its own individual 12-inch flat screen TV. It also features six 12-foot by 15-foot oversized screens and 12- 50-inch plasma screens to view live horse racing from around the country.

www.caesarspalace.com

The final event of the weekend was dinner at Bradley Ogden at Caesars Palace. This had no connection to sports except the sporting life of great food and wine. Next day it was home to NYC. This trip was no gamble, it was a sure thing.

www.visitlasvegas.com

www.lvcva.com

Out of Africa

By Bobbie Green

Seal splash no, Tiger Splash—Huh!  Watching wild tigers at play swimming and splashing in a pool with humans—not professional animal trainers, is one among many amazing sites one can see and experience at the “Out of Africa Wild Animal Park.”

Out of Africa Park located in Camp Verde, Arizona is where the wild things share their feelings with staff and visitors.  This wild animal park cannot be compared to others in the nation. The animal habitat is the life and blood of owner Dean Harrison.

Harrison and his wife Prayeri began sharing their wide-ranging animal experiences with the public in 1988. Since then, their park has grown and flourished. It is home to over 100 species of animals, most of them rescued from closing zoo’s, parks or personal ownership. In my opinion these lucky animals have arrived at animal heaven.

Here they are housed in a natural habitat setting with plenty of room to roam. Although many visitors tour the park daily one never feels they are in a zoo. This is a shared experience– the animals are also viewing you. They are friends with all of the staff members therefore; they are your friends also. They do not hide from view, but come out to see you. We ate lunch sitting at a bench on one side of a chain link fence with lions just on the other side, one lying down close to the fence happily watching us, maybe waiting for a bit to be tossed to him.  Unless the animals are sleeping, when a staff member and especially Harrison, the owner, comes by their habitat, they come running to greet him. They want him to come in and play, this is not the norm in wild animal parks and why Out of Africa is so special. It was a real treat to be riding with Harrison in his jeep around the park and see how all the animals treated him with affection, he had no food treats in his pockets, but the affection was returned. 

Visitors may walk around the park on their own, or they may take an African Bush Safari, where the driver/guide makes sure you have a personal encounter with a zebra, giraffe or ostrich. The animals know everyone on this bus has a treat for them and they want it– great fun for kids and adults. There are many beautiful wild animal species and unique animal experiences to be enjoyed by visitors to the park.

There is a large pool with a chain link fence around it and a 2000 seat covered seating area outside the fence.  This is where the Tiger Splash, Bear Splash and Tiger Feeding take place.  The tigers and the bears seem to look forward to their fun time in the pool.  These animals are not trained to perform tricks. Each day different tigers and bears and different staff members with toys come to the pool. The animals want to play with the toys and they are friendly with the staff members who bring the toys. The tigers leap high into the air as they dive into the pool.  The heavy bears seem to plop into the pool. It is an amazing to watch. After the tiger splash is over visitors may feed the tigers who eagerly await the stick they hold with food on the end. This seemed to be another special highlight for the visitors.

Visitors also get a close encounter with reptiles. At the giant snake show each snake is brought out and visitors are given a brief history of the animal. Afterwards visitor are invited inside the gate to pet the giant snakes-Pythons, Anacondas and Boas. This is one female did not participate in the reptile show, those who did were thrilled—I still do not know why.

One of the visitor’s favorite is Boom-Boom, the Southern White Rhino. I was quite amazed at his habitat area, large, yet not very confining. I questioned his getting out of it and was told no, he could not; he loves where he lives and would not want escape.

I completely believe that the animals here are quite happy with their home and would not want to leave it.

Out of Africa is quite a unique place to visit and one that should be high on your bucket list. If you go, choose one of the tours and walk around on your own, watch for Harrison,

he is always around, don’t miss a chance to chat with him. He loves to tell you about his animal friends.

Travelers will find lodging in Camp Verde or near by Sedona, Arizona.

IF YOU GO

Out of Africa

Open daily

928-567-2840

www.outofafricapark.com

Days Inn & Suites

Camp Verde, AZ

928-567-3700

Return to Playa del Carmen

by Ron Kapon

In May 2007 I was the guest of Fernando Garcia Zalvidea, the owner of the Royal Resorts in Cancun & Playa del Carmen. Cancun reminded me of Miami Beach and that is where the international airport is located. Be aware that it is the second busiest Mexico airport after Mexico City. It always seems to have logjams getting through passport control and customs. They have added another runway and terminal but all that seems to do is increase the wait.

On the positive side I flew on Jet Blue, for only the second time, non-stop in under 4 hours.There’s a beautiful new terminal at JFK with a large food court. The check in was easy and my flight left on time. There was much more legroom and wider seats than I expected since the plane is all coach. The individual TV consoles had movies and TV shows and made the time go even quicker. Don’t forget the famous snack basket. I would fly Jet Blue again in a heartbeat.

First and foremost, let’s get the geography lesson out of the way; Quintana Roo is a state in Southeastern Mexico on the eastern part of the Yucatan Peninsula with a population of 1,135,000 million. The Caribbean Sea is to the east and the nation of Belize is to the south. If the name Quintana Roo is not familiar, look at some of the cities contained within the state: Cancun, Playa del Carmen and the island of Cozumel enhanced further by the Mayan Ruins at Tulum, Coba and Xcaret

Less than an hour south of Cancun you will discover the Mexican Mayan Riviera where Playa (del Carmen) was established by Europeans from Germany, Switzerland and, especially, Italy. Playa del Carmen is named for Our Lady of Mount Carmel, the patron saint of Cancun. In the Mayan time (300-600 AD) Playa del Carmen was called Xaman-Ha (waters from the north) and was the departure place for the Mayans who would cross over to the island of Cozumel (Cutzamil) to worship the Goddess Ixchel and bring her offerings. The first modern village was created in the beginning of the 20^th Century. The first tourists to discover it were Europeans who found Playa to be a tranquil place. The lifestyle is slower with clean white sand beaches where one can find beautiful surf, coral reefs, scuba diving, jet skiing, windsurfing as well as a 20 block pedestrian street named Fifth Avenue (Quinta Avenida) with a mixture of shops, bars and restaurants (mainly Italian & Mexican, but with many other specialty cuisines). With a population of about 250,000 there are fewer large hotels and the atmosphere is definitely more laid back. The Playa del Carmen government has attempted to retain Playa del Carmen’s charm as a small fishing village and artists’ colony, without it becoming as large and metropolitan as Cancún. To this end, the city passed an ordinance limiting buildings to four stories.

The island of Cozumel can be reached from the ferry dock in Playa in less than 45 minutes. It is where the cruise ships dock. The snorkeling and scuba are great as they are near the Great Maya Reef which passes between the island and Playa. It is the second largest coral reef in the world including the countries of Belize, Guatemala, Honduras & Mexico (Australia’s Barrier Reef is larger). That same 45 minutes will take you to Tulum by road, which reveals the Mayan period of 1200-1520 AD and really must be seen to be appreciated. There are truly great photo ops here. It draws over 2 million visitors a year (the most visited of Mexico’s archaeological sites) and was actually “rediscovered” in 1842 by archeologists. Hurricane Emily hit the Rivera del Maya and did minimal damage (mostly broken windows and roofs) in July 2005. In October of the same year Hurricane Wilma hit Cancun very hard, causing a lot of damage but no life was lost. It is worth spending, as I did, an afternoon and/or evening at Xcaret, which is about 15 minutes from the hotel. For $60 you can get an all day pass or, for $43, just experience the two-hour evening extravaganza (the history of Mexico with over 200 performers). I spent 3 hours walking through the Mayan Village, along the jungle trail, through wildlife, underground rivers & caves (called Cenotes, and they are everywhere), through an Aquarium and several other shows. Bring your comfortable walking shoes and do the same.

This time I was invited to the grand opening of El Taj Oceanfront Hotel, one of 4 almost adjacent properties under the Condo Hotels banner. There is the Porto Playa luxury condos with a soon to open deli, a gym (one of the owners also developed Equinox fitness center), two pools and two Jacuzzis where lush tropical gardens surround waterfalls. Villas Sacbe is an intimate boutique condo hotel with a Jacuzzi that flows into a plunge pool. Maya Villa is a unique condo hotel with a jade colored Gecko shaped mosaic and glass tile pool topped off by a 40-foot waterfall cascading into the pool. All the artwork is Mayan. The slightly older (2008) El Taj Beachfront was my quiet refuge for writing with a Bali & Tahitian theme. There are lily ponds and a black mosaic infinity pool and Jacuzzi. Across the street is the brand new El Taj Oceanfront directly on the beach with a world-class Indigo restaurant that just opened. The beach chairs, mattresses and lounges were the most comfortable I had ever used; I was so relaxed it was hard to stay awake. A giant movie screen that will be seen from the beach will soon join the obligatory pool. Developer Jack Perlman and his wife selected all the furnishings during visits to Bali and Tahiti. All the 57 rooms are sold as condos (not time shares or fractional ownership) with prices from $400,000 for the one bedroom I occupied to $1.500,000 for a three-bedroom penthouse with private grill and Jacuzzi, facing the water. There are full kitchens in all the condos, plus flat screen TV in both the bedroom and living room. The owners may choose to rent out their condo when not in use and mine would have ranged from $235 to $445, depending on the season. Like it or not the bed was the hardest, most comfortable I have ever slept on. I actually looked forward to going to bed every night. There was accessible wireless in the room and throughout the condo, including the beach.

Who is Jack Perlman? A 54 year old New York City resident (although he now spends more time in Playa) who previously worked in marketing for Modell Sporting Goods and the New York Yankees. Rudolph Giuliani, a huge Yankees fan, was Mayor during that time. Jack arrived in Playa by accident when trying to escape the prefabricated environment of Cancun, which led him to Cozumel, where he missed the ferry. Rather than wait 4 hours for the next one he walked along the beach and found a hotel for $7 a night (it was 17 years ago). Playa had only two streets and there was no highway from the Cancun airport but it was an ideal place for Jack to begin his second career in developing properties. His first was Villas Sacbe where he implemented the “Americanization” of the real estate processes. Perlman created a legal environment in which the North American buyer can feel secure investing in Mexico. He believed in the curve concept that allows the breeze to flow through his buildings and optimize air circulation. There are no flat walls or pointed corners in any of his buildings. That concept also protects the buildings from the strong winds that lash the region. “If we want our projects to grow, the growth must occur in harmony with the community we’re living in.”

By the way, Jack lives on the property in El Taj Beachfront and was working from the time I was awake until the time I went to bed. Playa del Carmen, Condo Hotels and Jack Perlman go hand in hand with success.

For More Information-

www.riveramaya.com

www.visitmexico/playadelcarmen

www.playadelcarmen.com

www.condohotelsplayadelcarmen. com

www.eltaj.com

Del Mar by the Sea

By Bobbie Green

Sitting on a bench in Seagrove Park, in Del Mar, California and looking down toward the white capped waves, breaking on the azure sea, dotted with bobbing surfer’s, my mind can compare its beauty to sitting atop a hill, on the Isle of Capri and gazing at the azure sea dotted with bobbing small boats.

This small picturesque town of Del Mar, that literally means “By the Sea” is located just 20 minutes north of downtown San Diego, Del Mar has become a tourist attraction itself because of its coastal beauty.

Beginning in 1882 Theodore Loop discovered what he called “the most attractive place on the entire coast” while working for the Southern California railroad. He built a tent city on the beach and his wife named it Del Mar from the poem titled “The Flight on   Paseo Del Mar.  The same year Jacob Taylor built a hotel and things progressed from then on.

In 1900’s South Coast Land Company built a new hotel called the Stratford Inn, which became a magnet for the Hollywood stars. Today the L’Aubenge Hotel sits on the old Stratford Property. Del Mar’s famous racetrack opened in 1937 with Bing  Crosby, one of the founders, there to greet fans on opening day as president of the Thoroughbred Club.  2010 horseracing season at the track this year will be July 21 through September 8^th.

The Stratford Hotel and the racetrack not only brought in the Hollywood crowd, but also many wealthy people began to come here and enjoy the natural beauty of the coastline. And it remains so today.

Our hotel was a few miles inland, the Grand Del Mar, designed with the more affluent in mind.  The resort sits on acres of beautiful grounds and is inclusive of a Tom Fazio-designed golf course. The lavish old-world Mediterranean style resort is premier elegance. Pricey as it may be, if compared to a trip to Europe, a week at this resort with no long air flights, airports and pricey air fares to contend with could be the answer to your special celebration or vacation dilemma.

The materials used to create this atmosphere are the finest. They incorporated 30 types of imported stone, 16 different species of wood. There is polished marble everywhere.

Stylishness and grace though out the property from the guest rooms to the pool with   under water music. Impeccable yet very friendly service adds to the guest enjoyment. The restaurants are a compliment to the resort. Among the five restaurants on the property is the renowned, award winning Addison’s California’s only Five-Star/Five Diamond restaurant. It is located on the second floor above the Golf Club, not in the hotel itself. Guests are transported to dinner at Addison’s via a chauffeured Mercedes. At the Amays Restaurant, located within the hotel itself, I cannot say enough about the Sea bass that is so expertly prepared.        

The Del Mar area has many golf courses and the Grand does not forget you golfers. The Fazio course at the Grand is designed for all levels of golfers. The back nine are a challenge to the pro’s and the many strategically placed tees throughout the course allow for the less gifted to enjoy their round. Shawn Cox the golf director likes to boast of their human touch feature. All resort players receive caddie services. These professionals read the greens, give distances and help the player with their game—they have found this to be a very popular amenity. Stays at the resort may include a golf package.  They also offer lessons with video feedback and hold a summer golf camp for children. Golfing here is exclusively for guest, members and villa owner.

The spa and tennis court facilities are everything you would expect in a five star resort. The staff is the top of their field with many years experience.  Many off site activities are available. My spouse enjoyed a pleasant informative 90 minute hike through the undeveloped part of Los Penasquitos Canyon Preserve with Grand Del Mars onsite naturalist.

In the mist of this countryside luxury you are only a few miles away from the beautiful beaches and the village of Del Mar with its many boutiques and restaurants to explore. Do make a stop at the trendy Del Mar Plaza– the top level gives a panoramic view of the coastline from attractive relaxing surroundings. This voice of experience urges you to check out all the great restaurants in the Plaza, before choosing one to experience.

The 2010 Summer Solstice will be celebrated in Del Mar on June 17 at the Powerhouse Park. The Farmers Market is held on the South side of the Village on Saturday’s 1-4p.

The Grand Del Mar Resort helped make my time in beautiful Del Mar really grand.

IF YOU GO

Del Mar Race Track

www.dmtc.com

858-755-1141

Del Mar Visitors Info

www.delmar.ca.us/visitors

858-755-9313

The Grand Del Mar

www.thegranddelmar.com

858-314-2000

The Stratford Inn

Best Western

858-794-6838

Rocky Mountaineer Luxury Rail gives Awesome Canadian Experience

By Bobbie Green

There cannot be a better way to enjoy the awe-inspiring vistas that are found in Western Canada. My eyes are inundated with wondrous scenery in full view from my dome car on the Rocky Mountaineer Train.

In celebration of its 20^th season, Randy Powell, President of “Rocky Mountaineer” the Canadian train company, was at the Vancouver station to see us off on the first train run of the season. I was taking the 2-day journey over the “Kicking Horse Route” to Calgary while enjoying their “Gold Leaf Service.”

As we left the station, all  the Rocky Mountaineer staff not aboard our train were lined up to give their famous two handed good-by wave to those aboard the train. This guest pleasing gesture happens each time the train leaves a Rocky Mountaineer station. The seats in both Red Car Service and Gold Leaf Service are wide and comfy. Red car passengers enjoy picture windows and have their meals at their seat. Gold Leaf passengers ride in the upper dome car and have their meals below in the picture windowed dinning car.

Our route takes us along the coastal mountains, the Rocky Mountains and Glacier National Park. The first run of the season begins in April and some rivers, lakes and waterfalls were still frozen or just beginning to thaw, what a treat for passengers from a mild climate like my self.  Guest getting to take in the majestic views while passing behind cascading glacier ice is almost surreal. Short of climbing a mountain yourself, where else could one see this phenomenal scenery? For those passengers used to a long white winter I would recommend taking the run later in the summer where your eyes may feast on the lush greenery and pristine lakes of Canada.

Unlike Canada’s Via train that goes from coast to coast Rocky Mountaineer is privately owned and runs western Canadian itineraries. Passengers may add sight seeing tours if they wish or lengthen their trip by connecting with Via to cross the country. The train runs only in daylight hours, not to miss the views. Guests overnight in hotels. We stayed in the town of Kamloops at the Thompson Hotel. Guest had a choice of spending the evening exploring on their own or attending a pre-arranged dinner and show. Room keys were handed out on the train and the luggage was in the room when the guest arrived. Kamloops is one of the warmest, driest cities in Canada and takes pride in its beautiful golf courses. The name Kamloops comes from a First Nation word meaning “meeting of the waters.”

I found the trip to be superior in every way. The service is out of the ordinary with the attendants also acting as docents pointing out sights and giving the history along with their own brand of humor. The food left nothing to be desired. It was presented as it would be in a fine dinning restaurant and tasted every bit as good.  Beverages of all kinds were always forthcoming to your seats along with snacks.

Those with long range focal lenses on their cameras spent much of their time on the vestibule shooting the scenery without the glass. People from all over the world want to travel on this train. I met folks from England, Switzerland, Germany, Australia and Texas. I know the Texans will appreciate me listing them with the Countries.

Rocky Mountaineer has perfected luxury train travel through out the past years, the proof being all the awards and accolades they have won since 1991. Still an innovative company, they are now introducing escorted Tours and themed tours, with the addition of a lounge/ library car and features such as wine appreciation and special educational presentations. This means you will have another common interest with your fellow passengers who have chosen this particular theme. The train is handicapped accessible including a lift.

When talking with the attendants and the train manager I found most of them have been with the company for many years, and have plans to stay with them because they enjoy their work.

My train experience was truly awesome because of the scenery and fun because of the comfort, fellow passengers and attendants. When you are ready to ride the rails, I can recommend the luxury rails of Rocky Mountaineer for an experience of a lifetime.

IF YOU GO

Rocky Mountaineer Vacations

800-665-7245

www.Rockymountaineer.com

Goggle: tourism Vancouver

www.Britishcolumbia.com

York County Pennsylvania- the Factory Tour & Snack Food Capitol of the World, and the UnCork York WIne Trail
By Ron Kapon

An invitation to visit a few of the 12 family-owned wineries along the UnCork York Wine Trail led me to do more research on the York County area. Located about 4 hours from NYC, the city of York is also less than 55 miles from Baltimore, Gettysburg’s Battlefields, Harrisburg (PA capitol), Hershey’s Chocolate World and Lancaster’s Amish Country. Having been to all of the other five I decided 3 days in York County would work for me. Available tours include a brewery, a weaver, woodcraft, a farm dairy and of course Harley-Davidson Motor Company. York Barbell is a reseller of barbells and other equipment for weight training and bodybuilding and is the home of the USA Weightlifting Hall of Fame. The historic York Fair, which claims to be the country’s oldest, traces its roots to 1765. It runs every year in September for 10 days. I wish I had more time since I was there during its run. When you get hungry there is always Hershey’s Chocolate World, Martin’s Potato Chips, Revonah Pretzels, Synder’s of Hanover, Utz Quality Foods, Wolfgang Candy and Stauffer’s Biscuit Company. One can visit more than 20 factory tours to discover how America’s favorite products are crafted and all are made right there in York County.

Nothing was more than 35 minutes from my other stops and both Map Quest & my GPS system kept me from ever getting lost. I only wish the State of Pennsylvania was more accommodating to the wineries by allowing Wine Trail signs and did not charge an arm & a leg for the few signs they did allow.

York was founded in 1741 by settlers from the Philadelphia region and named for the English city of the same name. York was incorporated as a city in 1887. During the American Revolutionary War (1775–1783), York served as the temporary capital of the Continental Congress. The Articles of Confederation were drafted and adopted in York. During the American Civil War (1861–1865), York became the largest Northern town to be occupied by the Confederate army.

My first stop was at Susquehanna Glass in Columbia, about 30 minutes from my home base of York. Founded in 1910 it is still in the Rowen family today. With a few exceptions the equipment is the same used almost a century ago. My private tour showed me how personalized engravings were made on different styles of glass. The company does not make glass but purchases standard sizes and makes them special. Have a favorite NFL, NBA or MLB team? They will used the official logo for that team and add something personal (name, occasion etc). While in Columbia spend a few minutes at the National Watch & Clock Museum. There have over 12,000 treasures of time.

My home for two nights was the Lady Linden B&B in a restored Victorian Queen Anne style B&B built in 1887. Jim & Jean Leaman lived across the street and decided to lovingly restore the 3 bedrooms available as well as the parlor, dining room and grounds to its former splendor, as well as moving in upstairs. Dinner the first night was at the Commonwealth Room of the Yorktowne Hotel which opened in 1925. It is York County’s only AAA Four-Diamond restaurant. They are a member of the Historic Hotels of America. Chef Mark Pawlowski prepared a 7-course winemaker dinner, with wine pairings, just for me. I never made it through the 7 courses.

The next morning I walked around the historic downtown district past the Strand-Capitol Performing Arts Center to the Central Market House. Fresh produce, meats and cheeses along with assorted gift items filled one of the oldest market houses in the country. It was now time to begin my UnCork York Wine Trail adventure. On Friday-Sunday November 20-22 from 11AM-5PM Wine Just Off The Vine allows participants into the cellars of 10 wineries for tank and barrel tasting of newly pressed wines fresh from the harvest. For $10 you receive an UnCork York Wine glass and a 10% discount at participating wineries. I was able to visit 4 of the 10 wineries starting with an old friend Dick Naylor, owner of his namesake Naylor Wine Cellars. He believed that York County could produce premium wines when he started 30 years ago. As an aside he is still active in his mid-80’s but his mother is 107 and still going because she has a glass of his wine every day. We used an ATV to tour much of his 27-acres of vines with over 40 varieties. He has a pavilion for musical presentations along with a wine and food stand.

William Penn brought grapevines with him to the New World in the 1600s. Traditional native grapes such as Concord, Niagara & Catawba along with hybrid varieties including Chambourcin & Vidal Blanc are grown in certain parts of the state. The humid summers and often-frigid winters dictate which grapes grow where. There are parts of the area that are warmer and have cool microclimates that allow the classic European vinifera grapes Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon to flourish.

Who knew that I would find paradise in Seven Valleys where I spoke to co-owner Charles Aldinger at his boutique (1,000 case) Four Springs Winery? I loved his labels for Fat Cat red wine and City Kitty white wine because Renoir, my 2-year-old city fat cat, loves sipping wine. Across the street I had lunch at Serenity Station Deli Café. The building houses a day spa run by Barbara Smeltzer while her husband Steve tends to the restaurant and gave me a history lesson. The building is 170 years old. The old Northern Central Railroad ran along what is now the York County Heritage Rail Trail located at the rear of the building. The “Freight Room” has photos & documents of the history of Serenity Station. From the Maryland state line to Seven Valleys it is 11 miles. The outside garden houses entertainment on Friday & Saturday nights through October 16th.
I had two appointments in Wrightsville, which was an easy 30-minute drive. The weather was perfect with sun and temperatures in the high 70’s so I spent most of the time talking to owner Jim Miller at his Moon Dancer Vineyards & Winery on his patio listening to a jazz trio and looking at the Susquehanna River. He had another band performing that night. Dinner was at John Wright Restaurant along the same Susquehanna River. You can see the remains of the civil war era historic Wrightsville Bridge while you dine outdoors. The Union Army blew up the bridge so the Confederate Army had to move the long way, by land. The John Wright Company specializes in cast iron products for the home & garden, selling shelf brackets, fireplace and woodstove accessories, Christmas tree stands and more. It is worthwhile strolling through the store before, or after your meals.

My last morning was spent at Allegro Vineyards where co-owner Carl Helrich spoke about his choice to make wine and skip the entertainment opportunities at the winery. He does sell his wine at 5 other company owned outlets in the region. Pennsylvania law allows up to 5 outside sales sources. The winery was founded in 1980 and Carl and his wife Kris Miller bought the property in 2000. It was an easy 4-hour drive back to New York City as once again the sun and temperature made for a lovely 3-day visit.

For More Information-

www.yorkpa.org

www.uncorkyork.com

www.yorkpa.org/tours

www.naylorwine.com

www.harley-davidson.com/experience

www.theglassfactory.com

www.allegrowines.com

www.fourspringswinerypa.com

www.moondancerwinery.com

www.stauffers.net

www.serenity-station.com

www.yorktowne.com

www.jwright.com

www.johnwrightrestaurant.com

Wining, Dining & Touring in California’s Central Coast- Part 2

by Ron Kapon

Part 1 of this article covered the Central Coast from the San Francisco Airport south through San Jose, Santa Cruz, Gilroy, Monterey, Carmel, Big Sur, Paso Robles, Hearst Castle & back to the airport. Less than three months later I was on my way to Los Angeles, Oxnard, Ventura, Santa Barbara, Solvang, Santa Ynez, San Luis Obispo & back to Los Angeles. At my farthest point in San Luis Obispo I was only 27 miles from my farthest point during Part 1. Much of the technical wine information can be found by reading Part 1 and I did not want to waste your time by repeating that information here.

As a savvy travel shopper I rarely rent cars from companies using airport locations. Someone has to pay for that valuable space, taxes and shuttle buses. Searching the internet I found “OK Rent a Car” which has only 1 location, next to the Hilton Hotel on Century Boulevard, about 5 minutes from the airport. Their price for a PT Cruiser convertible (this was California) was almost $425 cheaper than any rental agency at LAX. Do your homework. Because “OK” had only one location I had to agree to pay for any towing if the car broke down outside the greater LA area. I also supplied my own insurance. My auto policy covered me; my corporate Amex card covered my insurance deductible & my AAA Plus policy covered towing up to 100 miles. True, my farthest point was 200 miles from LA but there was never a problem with the car.

My hosts always ask me what type of accommodations I prefer. My answer is a bed, air conditioning, a TV & internet. I ask for unusual hotels, B&B’s and Inns that I can write about. I did stay at two brand name chain hotels, but each was distinctive. My other nights were spent at an historic inn and one of the most unusual hotels I have ever seen. Read on for all the details.

This trip started and ended with a visit with my friend Geoff whom I have known since he was 13 years old. I spent the first and last nights of my trip with Geoff and his wife Tara at their condo in West LA, just 20 minutes from LAX. After dinner I was introduced to Yogurtland. For 30 cents an ounce, with lots of flavors and toppings, I was in heaven. When will they come to NYC? My first stop was less than an hour’s drive at Herzog Wine Cellars in Oxnard. They specialize in artisanal winemaking and special reserve wines that happen to be kosher. I ate lunch at the Tierra Sur restaurant on property that serves seasonal Mediterranean cuisine. The city of 200,000 is the largest in Ventura County and is California’s largest strawberry producer. With 20 miles of mostly uncrowded coastline Oxnard serves with adjacent Ventura as the Gateway to the Channel Islands, famous for hiking and 2,000 plants & animals. The 5 offshore islands have no hotels or restaurants but Channel Island Harbor has a dive center, kayak rentals, boat charters, a yacht club and 9 marinas. There is also the Ventura County Maritime Museum, a small venue but well worth the stop with free admission. Oxnard is located near the 130-store Camarillo Premium Outlets and has a brand new California Welcome Center. We visited the tasting room of Rancho Ventavo Cellars located in a 1902 house within Heritage Square. This city block has relocated historic houses, which are now used for business and fun, and also has free Friday night concerts. I stayed at the 248-room Embassy Suites Mandalay Beach Hotel & Resort, directly on the water. This is southern California’s only all-suite beachfront resort. It was unlike any Embassy Suites I had ever seen. A free evening reception, including alcohol, and a fully cooked free breakfast were included. I had a relaxing dinner at Capistrano’s, located inside the hotel and overlooking the pool. There is an arcaded courtyard, 50-foot ceilings and windows around the top.

The next day I had a short 30-minute drive to Ventura. This city of 107,000 is one of the best sites in southern California for surfing. It sits in the foothills of Los Padres National Forest. The visitor’s center in downtown is the recommended first stop. On the way into town I stopped briefly at Ventura Harbor filled with restaurants, shops, fishing areas and the headquarters of the Channel Islands National Park, referred to as “America’s Galapagos.” The ornate city hall has the obligatory statue of Father Junipero Serra, the founder of California’s mission system. The early 1930’s Majestic Ventura Theater holds many concerts. Nearby is the headquarters of Patagonia. I tried to find time to get to their annual 50% off sale but only had 4 hours in town and chose touring over shopping. We did have time to taste wine at Old Creek Ranch Winery & watch their skateboard-riding dog. It is located 7 miles north of Ventura on a working cattle ranch in Ojai Valley. Lunch was on Main Street at Jonathan’s located in a building built in 1877. The menu was a blend of cooking styles from many Mediterranean countries. I stopped for a glass of wine at The Wine Rack, and also Paradise Pantry, both of which have a large selection of Ventura County wines. An hour away I arrived in Santa Barbara for my two-day visit.

Again, I heard the word Ramada Inn and wondered what was in store for me. This one featured a tropical garden complete with freshwater lagoon. Filled with water lilies and home to ducks and koi fish, I sat out on my balcony and watched the sun set. Santa Barbara is called “The American Riviera” and is home to 93,000. If you include Montecito (check out the Four Seasons Hotel) and Carpinterra there are over 200,000 in the Metro area. The waterfront area along Stearns Wharf (the west coast’s oldest operating wharf) has the famous Dolphin Fountain up front. I took a 1 1/2 hour tour with the Santa Barbara Trolley Company that leaves every hour right next to the wharf. We stopped at the SB Mission built in 1786 that is dubbed the Queen of the Missions.” I returned, after the tour, for a visit to the SB Courthouse built in 1929 in the Spanish-Moorish style. I had dinner the first night at Downey’s on State Street, the city’s main drag. I had the best duck I have tasted in the past 10 years. I wished I had time to see a concert at the 2,000 seat Arlington Theatre located a few blocks from my dinner location. I also stopped at the Moreton Bay Fig Tree, the largest in North America.

The next day I had lunch at Pierre Lafond Wine Bistro and learned that there really is a Pierre Lafond. He and his wife own several high-end fashion boutiques and he operates the Santa Barbara Winery as well as a market in Montecito. His winery was originally opened in 1962 and was the first opened in the county after prohibition. Dinner was at Stella Mare’s in the Greenhouse overlooking the Bird Refuge featuring casual French Country Cuisine. I was there for live jazz Wednesday(s). I took the self guided Red Tile Walking Tour throughout downtown and visited several tasting rooms on the Urban Wine Trail.

I drove along the narrow and winding San Marcos Pass Road (State Road 154) through the Santa Ynez Mountains with large portions of the mountain range in the Los Padres National Forest toward Solvang and the Santa Ynez Valley. I stopped in the town of Santa Ynez to have lunch and a tour of the area with Jim Fiolek, the Executive Director of the Santa Barbara County Vintners Association. We stopped at the Chumash Casino Resort and he pointed out the various wine trails I could visit. I stopped to admire the Quicksilver Miniature Horse Ranch in Ballard. Even though I was not a Michael Jackson fan I could not resist stopping at Neverland Ranch. It is named after Neverland, the fantasy island in the story of Peter Pan, a boy who never grows up. The ranch is located about five miles north of unincorporated Los Olivos, and about eight miles north of the town of Santa Ynez. I picked up a Sideways Map and decided to visit several of the locations featured in the 2004 movie. I stopped at The Hitching Post & Ostrich Land, both in Buellton; Los Olivos Café, Foxen, Firestone & Fess Parker Wineries in Los Olivos and Kalyra Winery in Santa Ynez.

I overnighted at the Hadsten House Inn in downtown Solvang. Newly renovated with classic French furnishings this 71-room boutique inn offers wine & cheese from 3-5PM & a full American breakfast. We also had dinner in their restaurant. After dinner we drove to meet celebrity chef (is there any other kind? think super model?) Bradley Ogden (I have eaten at his restaurants in Las Vegas and San Francisco). Root 246 in the renovated, Chumash Indian owned Hotel Corque, (remember this is wine country) demonstrates his farm-to-table style of cooking. The only thing kept in the freezer is ice cream. He told me he spends at least two weeks a month here. Solvang is the Danish Capital of North America and means “sunny fields” in Danish. It features more than 200 European-style shops and bakeries and several wine tasting rooms. Tastes of the Valley Wine Bar had 140 wines from the area available for purchase. I spent a few minutes at the Hans Christian Andersen Museum a block from the Little Mermaid Fountain. Santa Maria Valley, Santa Ynez Valley and Santa Rita Hills appellations are the three AVAs (American Viticultural Area) in Santa Barbara County. There are over 100 wineries in the county and five existing wine trails. I visited the Foxen Canyon Road, Santa Ynez, Los Olivos, Santa Maria Valley, Solvang and Santa Rita Hills trails. In 1782 Father Junipero Serra brought grapevine cuttings from Mexico to be planted in the fertile bottoms of Sycamore Creek. The largest mission vineyard, about 25 acres, was located in the San Jose Creek area, and an adobe winery, built nearby in 1804, is now Goleta’s oldest landmark. In 1884, Justinian Caire imported grape slips from France and planted a 150-acre vineyard on Santa Cruz Island. A grapevine planted in 1842 on a farm in Carpinteria has a trunk measuring nine feet around, an arbor covering two acres and an annual yield of ten tons of grapes.

The next morning I had an appointment with Brook Williams, the CEO of Zaca Mesa Winery on Foxen Canyon Road. Zaca Mesa is a Santa Ynez Valley estate winery, opened in 1973, dedicated to Rhone varieties. All the wines are made from grapes grown on 244 acres of vineyards and are designated as Estate Bottled. In an hour I arrived at my farthest point- San Luis Obispo- 200 miles north of LA. Lunch was at the Cracked Crab in Pismo Beach and I tried to have a light meal. Good luck with plate after plate of delicious seafood appearing on the table. I was ready for a nap but duty called and we started a tour of Pismo Beach. It is known as the “Clam Capital” of California. The city holds the “Clam Festival” every October, complete with clam chowder competitions and a clam-themed parade. There was a 20-minute wait at the Splash Café to try their clam chowder. Yummy! Upon first entering Pismo Beach, a gigantic concrete clam statue greets visitors. In the Chumash Indian language the word Pismo means Tar. I have never traveled by RV but the Pismo Coast Village RV Park has room for 400 RV’s with a swimming pool, clubhouse and mini-golf.

We were running a bit late so I checked in at the Madonna Inn in San Luis Obispo and changed clothes for my Edna Valley Chardonnay & Pinot Noir tasting at Tolosa Winery. How do I describe the Madonna Inn? Built 50 years ago there are 110 rooms each with a special theme plus pool, exercise room, spa and the largest convention center on the Central Coast. Choose a romantic honeymoon suite with European-style luxury, the novelty of a Western, Old Mill or Merry-Go-Round theme or a stay in one the famous, all-rock grotto rooms with waterfall shower. I loved my waterfall shower but had to watch out for the real hanging rocks. The late owner Alex Madonna was a local builder; hence much of the materials for the rooms came through his construction work.

Midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles, the SLO (that’s what the locals call it) wine region is comprised of three viticulture areas: the Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande Valley and Avila Valley. The small, mostly family-owned wineries are well known for their bottling of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, Zinfandel and more. The marine influence of the nearby Pacific Ocean provides a mild summer and warm fall, resulting in an unusually long growing season. Combined with the region’s rocky volcanic soils, these growing conditions produce fruit with intense varietal character and complex flavors. San Luis Obispo County is the fourth-largest premium grape-growing region in Coastal California, just behind Sonoma, Napa and Monterey counties but ahead of southern neighbor Santa Barbara County. Over the past 20 years, vineyard acreage in San Luis Obispo County has increased to 29,000 acres. By comparison Santa Barbara County has 18,000 acres, Napa; 44,000 & Sonoma; 58,000. As of my visit there were 220 wineries with the most Syrah acreage in all of California. Attending the tasting at Tolosa were: Baileyana Winery, Claiborne & Churchill Vintners, Edna Valley Vineyard, Ortman Family Vineyard, Stephen Ross Wine Cellars, Tolosa Winery and Wolff Vineyards. We managed to catch a few minutes of the free Friday night Concert Series at Mission Plaza and enjoy a cocktail at Corner View Restaurant on the way to dinner at Ciopinot Restaurant with Bob Schiebelhut, co-owner of Tolosa Winery and several other wine people. Bob and I spent most of the evening talking basketball (he played guard at Cal Berkeley). What I admired about the restaurant, besides the food, was the no corkage charge policy.

My last day in the Central Coast I was given a tour of Morro Bay. The famous Morro Rock was named in 1542 by Portuguese navigator Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo who called the rock El Moro because it resembled the head of a Moor, the people from North Africa known for the turbans they wore. Much of Morro Bay is a state wildlife refuge. There is no public access to the rock itself because it is a reserve for the locally endangered peregrine falcon. A number of restaurants, shops and parks line the Embarcadero and shoreline. The combination of tourist-oriented businesses with a working fishing port and the dominant presence of Morro Rock makes for an attractive waterfront for visitors. We did a walking tour of the historical district of downtown San Luis Obispo with Steve Akers, owner of SLO Walking Tours. The city has a population of about 45,000 and began in 1772 with the Mission SLO de Tolosa built as the fifth mission (out of 21) by Father Junipero Serra. By the way, his statue sits in front of all the missions. I got a chance to see the inside of the Fremont Theater with its Art Deco 1940’s style. It still plays first run movies. Sort of a junior version of Radio City Music Hall. I was really fascinated by Bubble. Started in the 1960’s by high school students leaving their bubblegum along the walls, it is now a tourist attraction. My last meal was at Old Edna’s where owner Petia Torrence showed me a painting of the topless Miss Edna who was rumored to be a prostitute that greeted men getting off the railroad where Old Edna now stands. This was also a tasting of unique & emerging varietals in the Edna Valley & Arroyo Grande AVAs. Attending were: Claiborne & Churchill, Sausalito Winery, Sextant, Tangent & Trenza. I asked if any of the wineries did a topless bottling. Don’t wait for the answer!

It took me less than 4 hours to get back to LA and dinner with Geoff & Tara. Also, another trip to Yogurtland. The next morning I returned my wonderful PT Cruiser Convertible and I was homeward bound. On both my trips, three months apart, I had great weather, never got stuck in traffic and tasted wines that would make Napa & Sonoma take notice.

Back roads offer Travelers New Encounters

By Bobbie Green

Travelers getting off the inter-state, taking back roads to their familiar destinations can acquire a fresh look to their previously proverbial trip. Back-road travel offers new encounters for tourist.

On our way to Laughlin from Las Vegas, Nevada, we decided to take back road 164 from I-15, signage says searchlight. We then turned right to Cima, then right again on Morning Star Mine Road all the way to the Kelso Train Depot. The two lane paved road is good enough for a sedan all the way. I wouldn’t recommend taking desert back roads during the rainy season because of flash flooding. Along the way you will pass through a Joshua forest and enjoy the mountain views, you will be driving through the Mojave National Preserve.

The Kelso Train Depot is a treat from yesteryear. The attractive train station built in 1924 as a stop and quarters for the crew of the Union Pacific Railroad. It was a home for helper engines and a water stop. The Kelso Club House & Restaurant was designed to rival the Harvey Houses of the Santa Fe lines. The restaurant sometimes called “The Beanery” was open round the clock through the boom years, the depot function ended in 1962. In 2005 the Kelso Depot reopened as part of the Mojave National Preserve and is now operating as a fun little museum and information center. The restaurant has been restored to its 1920’s appearance, is open lunch for selling only cold sandwiches and drinks, as frying hamburgers in a historic building is unlawful. A little oasis in the desert, but travelers should be aware there are no gas stations on these back roads between I-15 and I-40.

Since the Kelso Depot was a major junction in its day nearby was another railroad phenomenon a “hobo jungle” formed while the hobo’s waited for the next train going their way. Many stories are told of the town’s children mischievous pranks with the hobo’s and selling desert tortoises to the passengers for candy money.

From the Kelso Depot about eight miles down Kelbaker Road on the way to I-40 one will find the Kelso Dunes. The trailhead is only four miles off the road and there are many hiking trails.

The road also passes by the picturesque Granite Mountains. If one took Kelbaker Road from Baker to Kelso Depot they would pass by the Cinder Cone Lava Beds.

Once you enter on to I-40 the Essex Road exit will take you back into the National Preserve where you may visit Hole-in the Wall visitors center and campgrounds, it is closed to camping in the summer months. Close by the campgrounds are hiking trails and slot canyons but you must be prepared with proper clothes and shoes. I am told the wildflowers bloom in April and are quite a spectacular sight to see. If you stay on Essex Road you will enter the Providence Mountains State Recreational area and home to Mitchell Caverns. For the nominal fee of $5.00 one may take a guided tour through the caverns complete with stalactites, stalagmites, shields and draperies, note that during the summer there is only one tour given per day at 1:30p. If you have been in many other caverns this one may disappoint you. The tour is advertised as 1.5 hours long and this tour was only 60 minuets for the slowest walker.

Getting to your destination by way of these desert back roads is like traveling in time and you are in a past era, enjoy it, but do it with a full tank of gas and a full bottle of water.

IF YOU GO

Mojave National Preserve

760-255-8801 Kelso

www.nps.gov/moja

Hole-in-the-Wall

760-252-6104

Mitchell Caverns

760-928-2586

Wining, Dining & Touring in California’s Central Coast

Adventure Touring New Game in Laughlin

By Bobbie Green

Laughlin offers tourist more than gaming and boating. The surrounding area is an experience waiting to happen. Yet not many people realize the day trips and experiences awaiting them if they choose, including family friendly outings.

We chose to learn some of the area history by taking a fun Sand Rail Tour, with Laughlin Adventure Tours, taking us back in time through “Secret Pass” located on the Arizona side of the river. “Imagine its early 1900’s” our tour guide is saying as we drive through the narrow pass viewing the Native American lookout posts in the cliffs. It seems a tribe of Hualapai hid their village in this canyon not wanting to be found and put on a reservation.

The Secret Pass tour is given only during dry weather as you may be standing at the bottom of hopefully dry waterfalls and able to see the Indians escape routes. Slot canyons and seasonal water falls are a memorable part of the tour. The pass ends in the spot where the village stood. The sand rails are safe and accessible to everyone, even to the limited handicapped. No problem for seniors. There is walking involved at Secret Pass if you choose to do it. If you want to walk through the slot canyons wear closed toe tennis or hiking shoes. Tourists have a choice of driving a 4×4 or sand rail, beginners will receive instruction.

In stark contrast, breakfast or lunch which is included in the tour is at the modern luxurious Laughlin Ranch Clubhouse overlooking the beautiful award winning golf course, the clubhouse itself won the 2007 Clubhouse of the year in Golf Inc.

Another tour being offered is to the old mining town of Oatman. Of course you may drive your own car and see it on your own as many do or you may choose to add a little adventure and get there off road on a 4×4 or sand rail, with a guide of course, either way the town is worth a visit. When gold and silver was discovered in 1863 in what is now Mohave County, the mining camps sprang to life. The Blue Ridge Camp, later renamed Oatman has survived the mine closings, the road by-passing and progression of wild burros that have made Oatman their home. Today it is an authentic ghost town with a population of approximately 150 folks catering to tourist who have made the fun little town the number one tourist attraction in the Tri-State Area. The community has endeared themselves to the wild burros who still roam the streets, taking care of them and preserving the town, its history and spirit. The shop owners and operators are artists creating their own products, writers and historians, keeping the Wild West alive through their live performances of gunfights and costumed dancers. The local population are not people who were born and raised in Oatman , but come from all parts of the world each with their own knowledge and expertise and have chosen to live in Oatman. While in the area, Oatman is a definite not to be missed stop and fun for all ages. During the hot summer months Laughlin Adventure tours takes visitors to Oaman in an air conditioned van instead of the sand rail, the driver still takes back roads giving area info to passengers.

While in Laughlin we stayed at the newly refurbished Aquarius Hotel and Casino in their wonderful Sunset Suites with floor to ceiling windows providing a great view of the river and the strip. We dined in their restaurants and found them all to be very recommendable. Who can resist Outback’s Blooming Onion? The buffet room has large windows providing a river view-we found it a pleasant place to dine.

Golfers are not left out, there are six nearby courses four of which are championship courses. The Riverside Resort offers a shuttle to all the courses except Rivers Edge.

Highway 95 from Boulder City through Searchlight, with the exception of a very short stretch has been widened to 4 lanes making the drive much more appealing. Midweek travel offers the best prices and least crowds.

Laughlin is holding their annual “River Regatta” August 28 and 29^th. Grab inter tubes or any type of raft, don’t forget your water gun, and float down the river with hundreds of others, sounds like terrific fun to me, the Aquarius Hotel is offering package deals including the inner tubes and life jackets.

IF YOU GO

Laughlin Visitors Bureau

1800-452-8445

www.visitlaughlin.com

Oatman Chamber of Commerce

928-768-6222

www.oatmangoldroad.com

Laughlin Adventure Tours

702-298-2345

www.laughlinadventuretours.com

Aquarius Casino Resort

800-662-luck

www.theaquarius.com

Writers Rock in Cleveland

By Bobbie Green

Here we were, a group of approximately 130 travel writers and Public relations people from the North American Travel Writers Association wandering through the “closed to the public” legendary Cleveland Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum. Awesomely privileged is how each of us feels. No rushing, no crowds, the “A” band is performing rock & roll hits in the lobby for our dancing and listening pleasure adding to the total-experience atmosphere of the great musical legends we were encountering and learning about in this interactive museum.

The open bar and deserts are hosted by “Positively Cleveland” the Cleveland convention and visitors bureau. These wonderful “perks” make up for the continuous 12-hour days, with no more than 30 minutes to change clothes and brush your teeth in the life of a travel writer. No complaint intended, I love my job, just the facts.

The unique design of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame is a sight to behold, especially at night with the lights shining through the glass structure. Visitors if possible, time your visit at sunset.

The question I was most asked before leaving Mesquite was “Why are you going to Cleveland?” “Positively Cleveland” positively answered that question for me and all the other travel writers with a whirlwind tour of their city. Time did not allow us to see all they had to offer, but what we did encounter gave us a new and positive opinion of Cleveland and its many unexpected culture and tourist attractions.

Visitors will discover Cleveland has the second largest performing arts center in the nation, Playhouse Square. University Circle host the most concentrated square mile of arts, culture and educational institutions in the country, all of the beautiful buildings are located in an easy-walk park setting.

For ethnic culture and cuisine the iconic neo-classical West Side Market is a landmark. It is the oldest publicly-owned market in the city with 180 vendors who have been there for generations selling their cultural heritage foods, from Hungarian Sausage to Slavic pierogis. Go there hungry so you can try everything. It is crowded, noisy and fun.

Families will not want to miss the Cleveland Metroparks Zoo. Located on 165 wooded acres they have everything from the rainforest to the Australian outback. Of course Ralphie Parker’s house from A Christmas Story (now a museum) is located in Cleveland and no child at heart wants to miss seeing Red Ryder BB guns and Little Orphan Annie decoder rings. The Great Lakes Science Center located next door to the Hall of Fame is not to be missed especially if you have children.

The six-story high Omnimax Threater also located in the center will thrill adults and children alike. Soaring over the Great Lakes is an experience I won’t soon forget.

A visit to Cleveland would not be complete without a visit to Little Italy where you may dine Italian style in generational family owned restaurants. I can personally recommend Gusto’s- the food is “magnifico” and is served Italian style with live accordion music by the owner. On your visit you must not forget a brewery like the Great Lakes Brewing Company, they offer tours of the brewery, in their restaurant one can see the bullet hole that was meant for Eliot Ness while he was seated at the bar.

Cleveland has not forgotten its sports fans with games at Quicken Field and Browns Stadium.

Still rocking in Cleveland we writers weren’t finish yet. On our last night there we again were treated to another private party this time at the House of Blues. After our Southern Style dinner, we were treated to a performance for our listening and dancing pleasure by their Sunday Morning Gospel Group. I did not count them, but the stage was full of singer and back up music. We were told they were going to “raise the roof” and they did again and again, yet another unreal and totally awesome experience for us. The singers were thrilling and moving, when in Cleveland one must not miss the House of Blues Gospel Brunch on Sundays, where the “Raise the Roof” Prayer Warriors perform.

Why did I go to Cleveland? To Rock, man, positively to rock.

Hells Canyon River Adventure

By Bobbie Green

Eagerly we stepped into the jet boat, looking forward to our adventure upstream on the free-flowing Snake River through the deepest gorge in North America, Hells Canyon, bordering Oregon and Idaho. Early explorers referred to the gorge as Box Canyon or the Snake River Canyon, but it is referenced as Hells Canyon in books and journals as early as 1895. Fortunately for us, when congress designated this area a National Recreation Area in 1975 they also allowed for power boats to be used, leaving this area accessible to those of us not able to hike or paddle a boat in.

Admittedly I had visions of shear cliff walls lining the river edge like Lake Powell. Instead there is a fair amount of beach area on the banks and the mountains rise with a slower ascend, allowing better observation of various geological structures in the terrain and wild life. Our jet boat captain is also our guide. His family owns the fishing lodge where we will be eating our lunch 80 miles into the canyon. He has been piloting boats on this river since he was 11 years old. We were happy to hear this information since the forest service advises only people who know this river should pilot their own boats here and they must have a permit.

As we entered Hells Canyon the land roads end. Anyplace in the canyon could now only be reached by boat, helicopter, horseback there are hiking trails in some parts of the canyon. Near the entrance to the canyon before the designated National Recreation Area are river front lots, some still for sale, with an interesting array of homes built on them, however one must be of a hardy nature to have a place here. Accessible only by boat, all wood for building, food and water must be hauled in. There is no electricity and no sewage systems. Outhouses are plainly visible behind the homes. There is an American flag flying from each property, peace and solitude reign here, with the exception of a daily mail boat. Soon the houses stop and pristine wilderness surround the rugged river with only a small forest station midway.

Our trip up river was slow with informative narration along the way, while keeping a keen eye out for wildlife. Bighorn sheep were once plentiful in the canyon and a source of food, clothing and tools for the Nez Perce Indians, the Bighorn died out after domestic sheep were brought in by the early settlers. Since 1971 wildlife biologist, parts of FNAWS have been transplanting bighorn back in the canyon as part of their conservation efforts. Some of the other wildlife to be seen are wild turkey, deer, elk and black bear. Various birds like osprey, Canada geese, mallard ducks, magpies, blue herons and eagles if you’re lucky. The remains of the old 1900’s copper mining town Eureka can be seen on the hillside.

Amazingly we skimmed over the waters surface including class I, II and III rapids. Most of the passengers were pleased by the absence of feeling the rapids; I however missed the thrill of the bouncing. We passed by Mountain Sheep Rapids we could see the iron rings low on the mountain wall where the paddlewheel ships of the 1900’s needed the rope lines to help pull them selves up through the rapids as they did not have enough power. The Paddlewheel Imnaha built by the mining company to haul their product and supplies, wrecked on its 13^th run over the rapids using the pulls. A boat hand threw the line over the uphill side of the boat instead of the downhill side and it caught in the paddlewheel leaving the ship steering powerless. She was turned on her side and finally rested sideways in a narrow part of the river as the rapids bashed her. All the people aboard were saved but the animals were not. She is still there in 65 feet of water. We saw evidence left by the prehistoric and historic peoples of long ago in the nature of petroglyphs and pictographs on the rocks.

When we reached the Kirby Creek Lodge we were treated to a bountiful home cooked spread and treated as special guest. Fisherman and river rafter come and stay overnight at the lodge. This lodge is still situated in the wilderness of the canyon with supplies brought by boat and outhouses for public use, indoor plumbing for overnight guest. The guest rooms are very basic and shared baths are down the hall. This is the only lodge on private land in Hells Canyon it was grandfathered in when the National Recreation area was designated. Some guests come to ride the class IV and V rapids in the 27 miles between Kirby Creek Lodge and Hells Canyon Dam, the only part of the canyon we did not travel through.

On the way back, with the exception of a few stops to point out wildlife or pictographs our jet boat pilot let her rip. This was exciting. The whole trip was an experience to remember and an easy way, maybe, the only way, for some tourist young and old to answer a call of the wild.

If You Go

Hells Canyon NRA Snake River Office

509-426-3916

Snake River Adventures/ Kirby Lodge

800-262-8874

www.snakeriveradventures.com

www.Cruiswest.com

Columbia River Itinerary

By Ron Kapon

Palm Springs a Unique Vacation Area

By Bobbie Green                                                                        

Since its inception Palm Springs, the California desert oasis has been a unique vacation area. Nestled against the San Jacinto Mountain range its first residents were the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians, they settled there because of the hot healing mineral waters that sprang from the ground.. Their name for the place was “la palma de la mano de Dios”, The palm of God’s hand. The natural hot springs are still there although the site is now the Spa Resort Casino. In 1877 the U.S. Government gave the railroad title to odd-numbered parcels of land for ten miles on either side of the tracks to be built through the desert around Palm Springs. The Chauilla Indians owned the even number parcels, but without the rights to sell or make a profit from the land. In 1884 Judge John Guthreie McCallum seeking health for his tubercular son became the first permanent non-Indian settler. He purchased land from the railroad and brought water to the area for agricultural by building an aqueduct. The railroad of course brought more white settlers and services to the area. The village of Palm Springs was incorporated in 1938. By this time the village of Palm Springs had become a winter playground for the Hollywood stars and remains so today.

During World War II the surrounding desert became a training ground for General George S. Patton’s Troops. The site of today’s Desert Regional Medical Center served as Torney General Hospital, treating U.S. wounded and Italian prisoners of war were also housed there. The airfield built to handle military cargo became today’s Palm Springs International Airport. After the war and with the advent of air-conditioning the beautiful little town so close to Los Angeles began to flourish with the development of resorts, convention centers and year around residents. In 1959 President Eisenhower signed the Equalization Law allowing the Indian tribes to realize profits from their lands and develop the 99-year lease. The city fathers have protected the beauty and integrity of the city’s growth and today the now year-round playground offers something for every ones preference of hotels, resorts, villas and boutiques Inns, including accommodations for gay, lesbian and naturist’s travelers.

Today’s Palm Springs is a vivacious, picturesque, entertaining and welcoming visitor’s town that caters to all visitors’ preferences. The town features many small Historic Boutique Inns from yesteryear, all refurbished to meet the modern visitors’ needs, yet allowing their nostalgic past to add atmosphere. We were fortunate guests of the Andalusian Court. Located in the historic Tennis Club district and within walking distance to all of the downtown area restaurants and attractions, we found these villas to be beautiful and very convenient. Each of these historic inns have their own history and list of famous people who have stayed there. Some are very private and some invite socializing. Our villa at Andalusian Court was a one bedroom with 2 baths, kitchen and living room with fireplace, all handsomely decorated keeping with the Inn’s Spanish-style theme. All their units feature a private outdoor whirlpool spa. Lucy and Desi Arnaz often stayed here and it is said Little Ricky took his first steps in the courtyard of unit #4. There is a huge pool and a lovely yard to relax in.

The Palm Springs Bureau of Tourism has a book of Historic Inns of Palm Springs, check out your options.

If a larger hotel/ resort type property is you style, again there are many choices, The impressive Hotel Zoso on South Indian Canyon Dr, again in the heart of town offers a trendy modern style resort with excellent group conference facilities, or Palm Springs newest the legendary refurbished Riviera Resort & Spa, where “retro meets contemporary style”. Be sure and check it out. There are 130 hotels from which to choose.

.No one is at a loss for entertainment in Palm Springs, there is night life everywhere in the hotels and restaurants and of course the Fabulous Follies runs from the last week in Oct through May each year. Be sure to pick-up and read the free Desert Entertainer magazine as soon as you arrive in town, not to miss some surprising entertainment that may be performed only once per week.

The Palm springs Art Museum exhibits the highest quality visual arts and is conveniently located downtown near the follies. An uncommon attraction is the Palm Springs Air Museum located by the Palm Springs airport. They have a large exhibit of early airplanes and WWII planes along with later models. The unique feature is each plane has a docent who flew in these models or was a mechanic for them. They have stories to tell and can answer all kinds of question about the aircraft. One can go inside a WWII cargo plane, a B-17 and C-47. They have an extensive WWII library on site for research. I especially enjoyed browsing through the old 1940’s Life Magazines. The air Museum is quite different from most attractions, I would add it to my not to be missed list.

Everything you have ever heard about dinning in Palm Springs is true, from pizza parlors to gourmet $ to $$$$. If you are looking for something light Ruby’s has a great Cobb salad. If you are wanting a expertly prepared meal served in a trendy atmosphere try Spencer’s Restaurant at the Mountain in the Racquet Club $$$. The patio dinning is very romantic. They have an extensive and pricy wine list along with a California Casual dress code.

Do not forget the “Villagefest” on Thursday evenings in downtown Palm Springs for food, fun and crafts.

Palm Springs is a fun place to visit with a variety of things to do or a retreat to privacy, sun and a pool. It is about a 5.5 hours drive from Mesquite but you can cut off some time by taking 274 out of Barstow and going through 29 palms.

If you go

Palm Springs Bureau of Tourism

760-778-8415

Andalusian Court.

888-947-6667

www.andalusiancourt.com

Fabulous Follies

760-327-0225

www.Psfollies.com

Palm Springs Air Museum

760-778-6262

www.palmspringsairmuseum.org

By Ron Kapon
I have written about many southern cities in the past few years including Oklahoma City, Knoxville, Birmingham, Norfolk, Virginia Beach, New Orleans, Myrtle Beach, Raleigh, Charlotte, Houston and Jacksonville. As a born and raised frenetic New Yorker I found many things to enjoy in the “laid-back” south. Most of the trips mentioned above were structured press familiarization trips with activities all day.

Could I really relax on a “free to do what you like” trip? The Westin Hilton Head Island Resort & Spa proposed just such a three night restful long weekend in late September. My Continental Express flight would be two hours to Savannah and less than an hour drive to Hilton Head Island. Why not spend a day visiting one of the Revolutionary & Civil Wars most important cities (remember Sherman’s march to the sea and the British defeat of the American forces?).

The Westin Savannah Harbor Golf Resort & Spa extended an invitation and I was on my way. The hotel has 403 rooms, a PGA Championship golf course and a Greenbrier Spa. I parked my rental car and took the free water shuttle (Savannah Belles Ferry) from the Westin/Convention Center side of the Savannah River to the historic downtown side and then the free DOT Express shuttle bus that runs from the River Street dock area through 10 stops along the Historic District. Not many people knew about this free service. By the time you read this another free city transportation system should be up and running- a vintage 1930 streetcar that will operate along River Street. With very limited parking the city of Savannah should be congratulated for offering all these free alternative modes of transportation.

Savannah has a population of 325,000 with 6 1/2 million annual visitors. The average year-round temperature is 51 degrees. It has the largest National Historic Landmark District in the United States. The city was founded in 1733. The local Convention and Visitors Bureau supplied me with a VIP pass to many of the attractions and meal coupons. I chose Old Town Savannah Tours and stayed on it for its entire 1 1/4 hour circle tour. The next day I used the “get on/get off” feature to visit sights that I had picked out.

The Savannah Visitors Information Center has car parking available for people on the different trolley tours. The Savannah History Museum is a good starting point with its 18-minute film showing the history of the city.

Ron’s Choices for The Best of Savannah: Mickve Israel Temple built in the Gothic style and the third oldest in the US; Savannah’s remaining 21 squares, containing statues and small parks; The founder of the Girl Scouts Juliette Gordon Low’s home; the read-worthy tombstones at the Colonial Park Cemetery; Fort Pulaski National Monument (outside town); Telfair Museum of Art; Fort Jackson where General Sherman captured the city; First African Baptist Church, the nation’s oldest historically black Baptist Church; City Market with its shops and restaurants; Savannah College of Art & Design and, last but not least, River Street with its shops and restaurants. On the way out of or into the Savannah airport stop at the Mighty Eight Air Force Heritage Museum.

I was on my way to Hilton Head, which is the largest barrier island between New Jersey and Florida. If one has time you can stop at Beaufort, whose downtown area is a historic district; Bluffton, which is part of greater Hilton Head, and for shopaholics there is the Tanger Outlet Center. Once over the bridge on the 12-mile long by 5-mile wide island read the signs carefully. There are no large billboards allowed, no McDonald Arches, everything is small and discrete.

A bit of history- In 1663 English sea captain William Hilton claimed the island for the British Crown (did he stay at a Hilton Hotel?). In 1790 the first Sea Island cotton crop was harvested and by 1860 twenty-four plantations were in operation. In 1861, during the Civil War, the largest naval battle fought in American waters took place and Federal troops occupied Hilton Head. After the abolition of slavery the island suffered an economic downturn due to a lack of available workers. In the 1940s the island experienced a rebirth with a lumber industry using sea pine trees. In 1956 Charles Fraser, whose family was one of the island’s owners, created a master plan for a resort community. That is the same year the bridge to the mainland was constructed.

Hilton Head is golf, sand, fishing, water sports, wetlands, wild animals, bike riding, jogging, eating and drinking. There are 2.3 million visitors every year and most come for the ocean and beach even with 23 golf courses (4 are private), 350 tennis courts and 8 marinas. You can ride a bike, as I did, on the 12 miles of sandy beaches or the 50 miles of paved pathways and nature trails. If you insist on sights try the Harbour Town Lighthouse Museum, which was built as an attraction, rather than a working lighthouse. The Coastal Discovery Museum, Audubon Newhall Preserve and Sea Pines Forest Preserve are there waiting for your visit. The Sandbox is a hands-on interactive children’s museum.

The Port Royal Plantation is a mixed-use area with three 18-hole championship golf courses, 14 tennis courts, bike and jogging paths, private residences, vacation clubs and the location of the AAA 4 Diamond Westin Hilton Head Island Spa & Resort where I spent three nights. The 412 rooms are set in oceanfront five story wrap-around buildings. It is a long walk to either of the side elevators but is perfect to help you digest the dinner seafood and breakfast buffets. The hotel has a seasonal Westin Kids Club and children’s pool and is very pet friendly. With a workout room, yoga studio, Heavenly Spa by Westin, one indoor and two outdoor pools you are set for every season. I am told there are only a few months (December-February) where you can’t walk around in shorts. It was in the high 80s the last week in September.
I truly had a dose of Southern Hospitality. Now if only I could bottle it.

For More Information:

www.westin.com/hiltonhead
www.hiltonheadisland.org
www.westin.com/savannah
www.catchacat.org
www.connectthedot.com
www.scad.edu
www.trolleytours.com
www.savannahvisit.com

Tales of the Cocktail
bY Ron Kapon

I admit it; I am a wine guy. I have been teaching and writing about wine for over 45 years. Even my e-mail spells it out- VINORON. A few years ago I added spirits to my journalistic endeavors and even shared teaching a spirit course at The International School Hospitality Management at Fairleigh Dickinson University. I have traveled to Scotland (Scotch), Ireland (Irish), France (Cognac), London (Gin), several Caribbean Islands (Rum), Mexico (Tequila), Peru (Pisco), Jerez (Brandy), Italy (Grappa) and Sweden (Vodka) for my research. There was an opportunity to broaden my knowledge and find interesting angles for stories: The 6th Annual Tales of the Cocktail held in late July in New Orleans. I had been to New Orleans a year ago in May for the Wine & Food Festival (The Shame of America). “Get there and everything will be taken care of,” said Bonnie Warren, my previous host. True to her word, my five nights at Harrah’s New Orleans Casino & Hotel, including breakfasts and dinners, were covered. I just paid for airfare. The Tales of The Cocktail gave me a Media ID which worked for admission to most of the seminars and tastings.

I was ready to go to work. Tales headquarters was the historic Hotel Monteleone at the edge of the French Quarter on Royal Street. I quickly learned that any seminar taking place on the 16th floor roof was like weekend travel to The Hamptons. I avoided all those seminars after the first day when I waited, along with many other people, 20-30 minutes to go up and come down the two elevators. The other two disappointing functions for me were the two outside/inside ones- The Royal Street Strut and The Tiki Party. The strut had few shops open with very limited food (luckily, I was dining at Brennan’s that night). I arrived at The Tiki Party a few minutes early but had to wait almost a 1/2 hour for them to open the tent flaps. I had a few food selections and one drink but when I looked up the tent was jammed and there was no place to sit. Did I mention it was hot outside and inside the tent? I left early and went back to my room at Harrah’s (next door to the tent). The Spirit Award ceremony was held at the Theatre at Harrah’s Casino and had plenty of food and drink and there were tables and chairs.

The seminars were fabulous. The problem was many were held at the same time so I found myself multi-tasking and spending half the allotted time at two seminars. The Reidel Spirit Glass Tasting was the highlight of the whole 5 days. George Reidel was the best speaker and his dry sense of humor made the seminar number one. We also got to keep the Tequila, Single Malt & Cognac glasses.

One comment on tickets- I had media credentials hanging around my neck and a wristband for the Strut and Tiki events. I don’t remember anyone asking me for them except at the sold-out Reidel tasting. If I lived in New Orleans I would come to as many events as I could without bothering to register. Why pay when no one seemed to be checking?

That said my other favorite events included: The Tasting Rooms with free admission and sponsors pouring their products. I found some hotel guests who just wandered by and were smart enough to taste for free. For me, it was about seeing old friends and colleagues. Emerging Spirits or “What is the next big thing” Donna Hood Crecca, editor of Cheers Magazine led the panel discussion. The answer is: Absinthe, Pisco, Liqueurs, Rye, Rum, Sake, Gin, Irish and Cachacha. The opening of the Absinthe Museum of America was where I tasted the formerly banned products. How to Taste Like a Professional and Whiskies You Have Never Tasted Before were both led by Paul Pecault who has finally published the revised edition of his Kindred Spirits book. I have used his old edition on hundreds of occasions for research. Artisan Spirits discussed products from smaller companies. The Spirited dinner at Zoe in the W Hotel perfectly matched many cocktails with the dinner courses. The Media Breakfast at Brennan’s was over subscribed and led by Bonnie Warren who has done their public relations for over 21 years. She along with Rachel Douglas the public relations director at Harrah’s were my hosts. I sat in on every seminar that David Wondrich, Gary Regan or Jared Browm/Anistatia Miller conducted. I managed to tag along at the very end of historian Joe Gendusa’s daily New Orleans Cocktail Bar Tour. He visited 4 to 6 cocktail bars near The Monteleone Hotel with one free drink provided.

Due to the overlapping times the following are seminars I would have attended if I could clone myself: Eggs in Cocktails and Beer as an Ingredient in Cocktails; Bourbon & Blues and Rum and All That Jazz; The First International Symposium of Cocktail Shaker Collectors; Ultimate Bloody Mary Championship; Molecular Mixology & The Flowering Punch; Bartenders of The World Suite (started at 11PM when I was sleeping) and The History of Bar Snacks.

In 2007 the event used: 7,250 mint leaves, 3,580 lime wedges, 800 watermelon cubes, 560 gin soaked dried cherries, 1,390 orange slices and 2 tons of ice.

During the opening ceremony the Sazerac was declared the official cocktail of New Orleans and The Punch & Judy by Charlotte Voisey was named the official cocktail for Tales 2008. I even learned that New Orleans was the birthplace of the cocktail. Antoine Amedee Peychaud, a French planter and pharmacist, was forced to flee the Caribbean island of Santo Domingo during the Black Rebellion of 1793. He relocated to New Orleans and opened an apothecary shop on Royal Street. The building is still standing and has been an antique shop opened by the Cohen family for the last 100 years. Peychaud brought with him an old family recipe for bitters. He would add a few drops of brandy toddies, the Creole gentleman’s drink and restorative of the day. Peychaud served the drink in a double-end eggcup called a Coquetier (kah-kuh-TYAY). After purchasing Louisiana from France in 1803, many Americans moved to the Crescent City. Coquetier was most frequently heard as COCK-TAY and was soon slurred into COCKTAIL (after a few drinks). Now you know the rest of the story.

For More Information-

www.talesofthecocktail.com
www.harrahsneworleans.com
www.hotelmonteleone.com
www.neworleanscvb.com

U. S. tourist venturing to Russia will not be disappointed. They will find their trip a rewarding experience and return home with a new perspective of the lovely people who were once our arch enemy during the cold war.                             

Amadeus Waterways a young, but renowned company provides 5 star river cruises throughout Europe. Among their fleet is the ship Leo Tolstoy, This is the first season for Amadeus running the Russian Waterways itinerary. I chose to see Russia from the Leo Tolstoy because of her history. She was built in Austria for the high ranking Kremlin officials and to host foreign dignitaries. The Captain, Valery Usikov has been aboard for 25 years, first during his military service and still as captain of the now private vessel. Although the itinerary called for us to cross two lakes, one being Lake Onega, the second largest lake in Europe and running three rivers and 18 locks and a few canals, I felt we were in very capable hands.

When traveling to Russia, one should be aware this country has not yet recovered from their years under communism and the break-up of the Soviet Union. Americans should not expect anything there to be equivalent to U.S. 5 star standards. Not even the Leo Tolstoy. The standard cabins are very small. I would recommend getting a Suite or Jr. Suite. Some twosomes chose to book 2 standard cabins one per person. The public lounges and bars are quite nice; the ship even features an indoor swimming pool. The ship is adequate and what it does lack in posh it more than makes up for with its passionate staff. They seemed to enjoy their work as much as we passengers were enjoying our vacation. Everyone was treated respectfully, and the seniors aboard that needed extra help were treated as very special guest and looked after with great kindness. Most of us aboard were seniors and of course while interested in our port stops and tours, our on board time proved to be a delight because of the programs and parties planned for us by the very capable cruise director Marina Jillenzeer, an English speaking Russian lady who has ten years experience working for Uniwold River Cruises.

The food choices, not as abundant as other European Itineraries was good and presented so enthusiastically lack of choice was not an issue, as one fellow passenger put it “Potatoes must be in season here.” Dinner is served with a glass of wine and breakfast with champagne. But guest are definitely getting what they came for, a taste of Russia. The food is authentic and well prepared.

Our trip took us from St. Petersburg to Moscow with stops in Uglich, Kostroma, Yaroslavl, Mandrogui, Kizhi Island and Goritsy along the way allowing us to see rural Russia as well as its cities. Our tours were led by local tour guides to the many Palaces, Cathedrals, Museums and other historic building all displaying exquisite Russian workmanship inside and out. We enjoyed a ballet at the Hermitage theatre, as well as a visit to the famous museum. Although tourism in Russia is in the early stages and the local guides are still learning, the ship always sent a staff member along on the tour bus to help with any problems or wandering guest. Probably the most unusual and well-liked excursion we had was in Uglich where our morning breakfast was served to us within a real Russian home. In small groups or 10 or 12 we were driven to a house or apartment of a volunteer host who made us breakfast. The host for my group could not speak English and we could not speak Russian. What a great time we had. Along with cognac Vodka we were served cold cuts and cheese, tasty millet, wonderful “blinis” (Russian crêpes) Bread, jams, cucumbers and coffee. Lots of hospitality and an outstanding culture exchange. This ranked as a once in a lifetime excursion on a once in a lifetime trip.                                                                         

On board passengers were treated to Russian lessons and discussions on Russian Language, Vodka, and Tea. Very stimulating lectures were given by Elizabeth Jsaeva Ph.D. from the University of Moscow, Professor of Literature and a historian. She is one of seven different lecturers used by Amadeus. She gave us a very enlightening perspective of Russian history through modern day events. These lectures proved to be tourism at its best, as passenger were able to provide her with clarifying feed back, creating more understanding between different cultures. What made our lectures so special is the fact that Elizabeth Jsaeva lived through the communist era and the Soviet Union break-up, her knowledge was not just text book.

All you seasoned hi-end travelers looking for your next pampered encounter with different world cultures don’t wait too long before exploring a part of Russia that was and is a part of our history too. This is your chance to meet the people who were ducking under their school desks too. It is your chance to see the old Russia and the beginnings of the new Russia.

The 12-day River Cruise offered by Amadeus on the Leo Tolstoy holds no more than 160 guests and 100 crew members. There were 102 guests aboard our cruise. It is one of the most up-scale cruises the Russian waters ways have to offer at this time and kept ship-shape clean. Singles, especially ladies traveling alone will feel safe and included within their Amadeus group.

By Bobbie Green

Tombstone was not what I thought it would be, based on the advertisements and articles I have read about the town famous for h O.K. Corral shootout, but I would put it on the must-see list for anyone traveling in Southern Arizona.

On the 27th of October 2006 a multitude of people from all over the world, many in period dress, gathered to celebrate the 125th anniversary of the Gunfight at the OK Corral in Tombstone Arizona. The 3-day event was planned and executed by the town’s citizenship with the help of some outside entertainers.

I have never been to Tombstone before, so everything from boot hill to shoot outs on Allen Street was new to me. My perspective of this little town that labels itself “The town to tough to die” is different than what I thought it would be based on its advertisements and other articles I have read about Tombstone, famous for the OK Corral shootout.

What I saw was a very small town, with a couple of streets left in original condition right, down to the dirt roads and board walks along the front of the authentic buildings. The now legendary Tombstone is preserved for all to see and enjoy. Re-enactments of the famous OK Corral shootouts are performed routinely throughout the year. The original saloons are open selling drink and food served from the grand and magnificently wood carved bars of old. I can personally vouch that Big Nose Kate’s place still serves an ample drink. Novelty shops are house in other original buildings. The OK corral is intact, including the tack. There are museums with its memorabilia from the town and its famous inhabitants. The court house, the jail, and the newspaper office are all fun to see especially for history buffs and all those many fans of the wild wild west. The newspaper office is filled with the old printing presses and one can subscribe to the Tombstone Epitaph which is still in circulation. The Bird Cage theatre, unlike Hollywood, shows the true setting in which these tough colorful characters spent their leisure hours drinking, gambling and carousing with the ladies. I found it much smaller and dustier than I had imagined it to be and yet containing box seating like a larger and grander theater. Of course the box seats served a duel purpose, when the curtains were drawn they served as the ladies of the house cribs. It was not hard to picture Doc Holiday setting in one of these cozy boxes with a smile on his face enjoying the view. In 1881the streets of Tombstone held 66 saloons crowded with gunslingers, miners and their dreams. Walking the earthen streets and boardwalk to the Crystal Palace and ordering a drink at the long bar can really deliver the essence of Tombstone to the visitor. Ed and Flora Wilkinson from Sedona, Arizona told me they were having a great time; they were very happy they came and would do it again. This was the consensus of all the visitors I chatted with. One business man from town went to the trouble of having 3 coffins made with the body likenesses of Frank and Tom McLaury and Billy Clanton placed inside and displayed them solemnly in his place of business.

The historical site I was most disappointed in was “Boot Hill”. For some reason the outfit that leases and cares for the cemetery has seen fit to desecrate the site by putting grave markers made of welded pipe instead of the wood and stone that was originally used. It was quite a disappointment to see this happen to the original and famous “Boot Hill”

And the whole atmosphere there seemed much too commercial. One has to question the placement of the graves. I was told the town has canceled their lease and plan to restore the grave sites like the originals. I certainly hope it happens.

The historic little town was given the strange name by prospector Ed Schieffelin, when he recorded his first mining claim, because his friends told him all he would find was his tombstone, but he persevered and found silver in 1877. Along came John P. Clum with his sense of humor and began a newspaper fittingly named The Tombstone Epitaph in 1880. John Clum was a jack of all trades and gave much of his life in service to Tombstone and surrounding area as an Indian agent and postmaster. He too persevered with his new ideas and new treatment of the Indians. All of the early pioneers, who ventured to the west on horse back and wagon trains, fought the elements and the Indians had the grit to persevere. The tough town of Tombstone burnt down twice and was twice rebuilt in record time, twice lost its population when the mines closed, reopened and closed again and yet today it is still here. I have heard some call it a “Town too Dumb to Die” I see an authentic town that represents America. She was full of hardships to overcome for our first forefathers and yet they persevered. The East was settled and the west was tamed. Here is the original Tombstone standing intact and inhabited by people who like their predecessors who refuse to let the town die. It looks like a good thing to me. They are keeping it alive by playing up the shootout at the OK Corral. I like John Clum, according to the Epitaph, think there is more to Tombstone than just the OK Corral shootout. It is sad that Hollywood didn’t choose to elaborate on the true grit of Tombstone and all it people, not just the Earps and Clantons.

Tombstone to me may not be a destination place in and of itself, but anyone who is traveling in southern Arizona should put it on their not to be missed list. It is a terrific place to bring your kids and grandkids. Not only will they see and learn a lot of our history, but they will meet the town’s people who are of the same character as their steadfast forefathers who are preserving the past for future generations.

Side Bar

There are only a few motels in Tombstone.

Recommend reservation. The R.V. Parks are nice.

Sierra Vista is the next closes town.

Best Western Lookout Lodge (newest)

520-457-2223 or 800-652-6772

Adobe Lodge Motel

520-457-3829

Larian Motel

520-457-2272

Trail Riders Inn Motel & RV Park

520-457-3573

Tombstone R.V. Park & Resort

520-457-3829

Stampede R.V. Park

520-457-3738

By Ron Kapon

I love Napa. I used to work there. You can spend three days in Napa and a lifetime in Sonoma. Our goal is not only to get visitors to Sonoma County but also to get them into the vineyards. Our organization represents 1,800 wine grape growers in Sonoma County. We believe when wine drinkers know how and where our grapes are grown, they will have a greater appreciation for Sonoma County.”- Larry Levine, VP Communications, Sonoma County WineGrape Commission.

Once you get to your destination side trips can play an important part of your vacation pleasure. It makes no difference if you are touring from a cruise ship or from your land based hotel or resort. The best trips are not necessarily ones your concierge or cruise director are promoting, or maybe you have already been there done that, so the following alternatives may be just what you are looking for.

Are you going to be on the East coast to enjoy the fall colors? While in Portland Maine try your hand at lobster fishing. Within walking distance of the cruise ship docks you will see the Lucky Catch lobster boat. Opposite her mooring is where you may make your reservation to go on the next run. This is a real commercial lobster fishing boat, she is also licensed and equipped to carry passengers.

For the next 90 minutes, you will learn all about lobsters from Captain Tom, an owner, who will be on board with you. He is very enthusiastic about his profession and his boat creating a fun atmosphere for all aboard. Everyone get to don aprons and gloves heave and haul, bait and sort. There were no kids on board when I was, but I am sure they would be more than thrilled, the two airline pilots on board with us certainly were. You will also get a bit of sight seeing sailing around the lighthouse and maybe seal watching. Adults $20.00, Children $12.00. www.luckycatch.com .

If you are anywhere near Shelburne Vermont you definitely do not want to miss seeing Shelburne Farms. This is NOT the farm you grew up on and you city folk do not have to worry about mixing with the cows and chickens. Sitting gracefully on the banks of Lake Champlain, this is the grand dame of farms, as it was conceived by William Seward and Lila Vanderbilt Webb, in 1886. The turn of the century was the farms heyday. In 1902 it included 3,800 acres of model farm and cutting-edge agricultural practices of its day. 1000,000 trees a year were planted creating a sculptured landscape with 20 miles of roads and carriage trails for friends and visitors to enjoy. Today hiking trails. The farm is massive and beautiful with 19th century style buildings even the barns.

Today it is preserved as a national Historic Landmark and Shelburne Farms is a nonprofit environmental education center. The grandeur of the main house is open to all, as it is now operated as an Inn. Even if you are not staying at the Inn visitors may have lunch there in the dinning room where the family used to take their meals. The Inn features 24 large uniquely furnished rooms using original furnishings and dÃcor. Romantic? Oh yes. The Inn is open May through mid October as there is no central heat or air conditioning.

There is a visitor’s center and a cheese making facility as the farm is home to the purebred Brown Swiss cows and award winning cheeses. Shelburne Farms is truly an exceptional and distinctive sight for tourist to see and enjoy. www.shelburnefarmes.org 802-985-8686. Located just 20 minutes from Burlington international Airport…

For those who want to continue their education and have fun at the same time, Santa Fe offers just the menu, from ongoing archaeological digs to ancient Indian villages to more museums than you can visit in a week to a selection of restaurants that will please every palate and educate you at the same time about real southwestern food. The ancient Plaza evokes the influence of the Spanish and offers tourists not just a lot of shopping but even more history. The historical place to visit on the Plaza is the Palace of Governors, once the seat of government for the Spaniards and now a registered national historic landmark.

This museum falls under the aegis of the Museum of New Mexico and so buying a four-day pass for $15 gets you into the Palace and four other museums. Otherwise, you pay $7 a person per visit. Perhaps even more important than the Palace Museum are the Native American vendors who sell jewelry, pottery and artwork from the Palace’s Portal. All of the vendors are registered through the Palace and may sell only handmade goods. The goods can be expensive (I’ve seen pottery for $300), but they are authentic and unmatched in the many stores downtown. The Native vendors, by the way, don’t take credit cards.

And while you’re downtown, check out the Georgia O’Keeffe museum and the Institute of American Indian Arts Museum and St. Francis Cathedral. The museums are separate from the Museum of New Mexico and do have modest admission fees. Enroute to the cathedral just off the Old Santa Fe Trail, you’ll pass the La Fonda Hotel and you should keep it in mind for lunch. After lunch, walk over to Canyon Road. This will be an all-afternoon trek as you walk up one side of the road and down the other, visiting the many galleries. Of course, if you ate a big lunch, you will walk it off on this road, which includes several restaurants where you can stop for refreshments and a rest. (You can, by the way, drive to Canyon Road and park in a public lot near the top and then walk down toward town, but you still have to walk back up to get to your car.) Santa Fe tends to be a pedestrian-friendly city, as long as the pedestrians are crossing in designated areas. The city claims it enforces its jaywalking law. And, unfortunately, New Mexico has a major DUI problem so be careful, especially at night.

There’s so much to see and do in Santa Fe that you’ll probably find yourself overstimulated very quickly. A visitor from Australia exclaimed to me: “You live in a movie set.” She was referring to the scenery, not the cowboys. If you find yourself on sensory overload, you can get out of town, but that will merely whet your appetite for more. Several good day trips await the curious. Because most of the museums are closed on Mondays, use Monday for a trip to Los Alamos and Bandelier National Monument, which was once the site of a Native American pueblo. What you can see by walking on a level surface allows you to get some notion of what life was like, but if you want a closer view you’ll need to climb a little, so bring good walking/hiking shoes.

And don’t forget your camera. The scenery on the way to Los Alamos will take your breath away and you’ll find yourself taking advantage of the occasional roadside pull-off to take photographs. At the Bradbury Science Museum in Los Alamos (which is open on Mondays), you’ll learn about the development of atomic power and what the Los Alamos National Laboratory has done since.

Another day trip of interest is a visit to Madrid, which is south of Santa Fe on Route 14. Until the 1950s, Madrid (pronounced MAD-rid) was a coal-mining town and it includes a mining museum. But it’s known today for its art shops and crafts stores. There are no sidewalks so natives and visitors alike walk in the street. Drive carefully. In New Mexico, tourists have a choice of visiting 19 pueblos. The two most famous are Acoma, which is west of Albuquerque and thus a long day trip, or Taos, which is about 90 minutes north of Santa Fe. You must pay an admission fee to enter a pueblo and an additional fee for each camera you take in. Within the pueblo you will encounter vendors selling jewelry, pottery and art and you’ll get a chance to take some spectacular photographs. As with the Native American vendors at the Palace of Governors, the vendors at any pueblo are selling authentic goods. Surprisingly, not all vendors take credit cards but they will take a personal check.

On your return from Taos, if you’ve left enough time, you can take a slight detour and visit Ghost Ranch at Abiquiu, where O’Keeffe did much of her painting. As you travel about the area, you will understand why O’Keefe and other artists settled in New Mexico. They drew their inspiration from the land and you too will be inspired. Back in Santa Fe for another day, you can use more of your four-day museum pass by visiting Museum Hill. Right now, there are three museums within walking distance of each other but two more are being constructed. You can drive there or take the aptly named Santa Fe Trails, the equivalent of CATA. A student who spends a week in Santa Fe should ask for extra credit in art, geology, anthropology, archeology, photography. An adult will just enjoy the experience. The area has both sights and sites too numerous to mention. On good days (which are most days), you can be treated to sunsets to die for and sunrises to live for. They’re brief, beautiful and never repetitive. Bring sunglasses no matter the time of year and drink extra water. At 7000 feet, you’ll need to protect your eyes and make sure you don’t dehydrate.

Mesquite Skydive, located at the airport in Mesquite Nevada, 80 miles east of Las Vegas is the only skydiving attraction for experienced divers, as well as first timers between Los Angeles California and Salt Lake City.

I was treated to the thrill of seeing their operation first hand, actually from the co-pilots seat of the 17 passenger caravan 208, a very small plane by my standards. I felt perfectly safe and aware I was with a very experienced pilot. Seemingly, light as a feather our take off and landings were hardly noticeable. Seeing the beautiful city from the air is more than delightful, it gives one a whole new perspective of the area.

Among our grouping was Ronny Anderson, he is the oldest Skydiver in the state of Utah. Ronny is 71 years young. He has been skydiving since 1963, living proof of what a thrill it is to participate.

Then there was Kirk Bastian 55, with over 9,000 jumps to his credit. He is one of the original skydiving Elvis’s from the movie Honeymoon in Las Vegas. Kirk said “Mesquite is a good place to jump, the wind is consistent and there is not much rain, 2005 excluded.”

Most of the skydivers are repeat jumpers and return often to get their thrills. The airport hanger is a busy place on the week-end with the jumpers packing their own chutes, discussing their new skydiving paraphernalia. Everyone was friendly and eager to help the newbie’s.

Brad Jessey owner of Mesquite Skydive has been in business here since 2001. In his first year he had 1,500 jumpers, 80 new instructional jumpers. In 2004 he had 4,700 jumpers, 250 new instructional jumpers.

Young and old alike can and do enjoy skydiving. Age is not a hindrance to active seniors. There is a weight limit of 220 pounds.

The first time you jump it will be a tandem jump; you will ride piggy-back with a jump master (certified instructor). With only minutes of instruction you can enjoy the thrill of safe skydiving. If you become hooked like so many others you can become an A-licensed skydiver right there in Mesquite with their integrated student program. Don’t just sit and watch, check it out yourself. You will have one exhilarating day.

Your first tandem jump is $165.00, first solo is $30.00. Mesquite Skydive operates Thursday through Sundays 9:00a until dark.

You may contact them at www.skydivemesquite.com or 1-877-246-5867

by Ron Kapon

The once controversial Atomic Museum is now a 3-year old reality at 755 East Flamingo Road in Las Vegas. It is located on the ground floor of the Desert Research Institute’s building. The atomic testing grounds have been an intricate part of Nevada history since 1951, when President Truman approved the site over protest from the Las Vegas Casinos who were worried it would adversely affect their business, instead it became and attraction for them as they advertised for patrons to watch the then above ground test from their roof tops.

The Nevada Test Site Historical Foundation is the Parent organization of the Atomic Testing Museum. The organization was created as the workers from the test site started saving discarded memorabilia from the site to preserve its history, organizing amid some controversy they began actively looking for funding for a museum, steadfastly supporting the view that this site was an important part of Nevada as well as America’s history, no matter what your personal opinion of “The Bomb” may be and should not be lost, but preserved and public access fostered.

They have done a superior job of enacting these views. The Atomic Museum is an out of the ordinary, thought provoking place to visit, well worth the short trip from Mesquite. The galleries are set up with timelines and projects. They have many videos, much to the amusement of young and old alike hands on interacting touch me screens and displays. One may use a Geiger counter or put together a rocket. To show size perspective visitors walk though a pipe that is used in the under ground facility. The underground test site is 900 feet below the surface.

One of my favorite displays are the time-line charts on the walls. Where else can one learn from one chart that China conducted its first thermonuclear weapons test the same time Dr. Martin Luther King was marching in Washington D.C. and the first Star Trek series was being aired on television. This chart puts events into a perspective everyone can relate to at a glance.

There is a lot of information on the different projects taken on through the years at the site and a good portion of nostalgia for the folks who lived through this era.

The Harry Reid Exhibit Hall features changing exhibits with artifacts from the Smithsonian and other museums. From April 26th until July 16th 2008 the hall will present “Amusement Park Science” geared for families with kids of all ages.

The Museum has a grant that is earmarked for school age children and if you have a group of children they can help with the busing cost if you contact them.

The first year of operation the museum hosted 30,000 visitors, in their third year they hosted 100,000 visitors. The visitors that I met there were as impressed as I was and thought it was a very worthwhile project. One should allow 2.5 to 3.5 hours for your visit. The Nevada Test Site Foundation hopes to have its own permanent facility in a few more years and I am sure when they get one their galleries will be even more interesting.

While in Las Vegas you may want also to visit the Clark County Heritage Museum in Henderson at 1820 S. Boulder Hwy. The two museums seem to go together as they cover much of the same time period. The Heritage site having a lot more room to work with has built a Nevada timeline street complete with authentic period homes moved to the site with landscaping, even a trailer park and motor court motel. Authentic furnishing for the house time period are in place. The oldest house is from 1905 and goes through the 1950’s. If you should visit Heritage Street, as it is named, at Holiday time the street and homes will be decorated as holidays past. The old Henderson railroad station is also on display here as well as an un-restored 1800’s collection of building giving insight to Nevada’s mining past.

Inside the main Exhibit Center timeline ranges from prehistoric times through the 20th century. Much of the Nevada memorabilia comes from

the Anna Roberts Parks collection. Anna and her husband were morticians, who came to Las Vegas 1911. The job took them to outlying areas and mining camps where Anna would collect abandoned item for preservation. Through the years her 51 years of collecting and her sizable collection ended up stored in a WWII barracks at 21st and Freemont Street. Anna began looking for a sponsor to preserve her collection.

Although Harvey House offered a great amount of money for the collection she would not sell it. Anna passed on in 1962 still looking for a Clark County home for her collection. Today much of her collection is in this museum in Clark County. It first went to the City of Henderson and then in 1968 the collection found a home in this Nevada Heritage Museum. Anna was the inspiration for this museum and all the other wonderful items that have been added to it.

Las Vegas visitor will enjoy seeing the other side of the glitz.

Clark County Heritage Museum

1820 S. Boulder Hwy

Henderson, NV 89015

702-455-7955

Open daily 9:00a-4:30p

Atomic Testing Museum

755 E. Flamingo Rd

Las Vegas, NV 89119

702-794-5152

Tours & Education

702-794-5123

Monday –Saturday 9:00a -5:00p

Americans do not have to go to a foreign Country to experience a once in a lifetime flight of fancy over a live volcano. A visit to the big island of Hawaii and signing up to take one of the many helicopter tours over the live Kilauea Volcanic System will provide tourist with an awe-inspiring look at a sight very few people get to witness first hand.

Let me warn you, this is not a “cheap” thrill, at approximately $200.00 a person. However I have not talked with anyone who was not thrilled with their experience and were glad they did it.

After flying over the lush greenery of the island, you enter the volcanic system where you feel you may be flying over another planet. Occasional patches of green or parts of a road showing below you are a vivid reminder of the devastation and destruction that happened not long ago. Your pilot/guide will be telling you when and how the lava flowed, and what was covered up. He will explain that most of the lava still flowing is underground in the lava tubes. This volcano is alive and lava has been flowing since the last great eruption in the 1983. The flow may be on the surface or underground when you are there. It was mostly underground when we went over. But there are breaks in the tubes and we could see the red lava flowing. We were able to find openings at the top where the red-hot lava was sloughing to and fro. Totally amazing, this was for real, not a movie. We flew along the coastline where the red-hot lava was entering the sea above the water line. We could see the red lava dropping into the ocean and the wall steam rising. I joked this was the only place I knew one could catch their fish, already cooked.

We learned that as the lava hardens it has added 560 acres to the island.

It will take approximately 800 years before vegetation will return.

I noticed that as we flew over the open cones and skylights, we flew a little higher and we passengers were very ok with that. Our pilot circled around and around so all of us got a good look.

Soon we were on our way back to earth, the green vegetation and the beautiful waterfalls of Hawaii.

Only from the air can one appreciate just how many waterfalls flow across the big Island. They may not all be accessible from the ground, but your eye’s view from the air, in just one directions will show you at five or more.

All six passengers on our flight agreed it was an awesome tour. In my mind this is the kind of experience the seasoned traveler is looking for.

Our tour was with Safari Helicopters out of Hilo. 800-326-3356

www.safariair.com or tour may be booked through ShoreTrips as we did at 888-355-0220 or www.shoretrips.com. Shoretrips offers individual and custome group tours.

Snorkeling is one of my favorite activities to do whenever the opportunity presents itself during my travels. Having just arrived in the Great Barrier Reef for the first time, I couldn’t wait to go in search of Nemo.

We anchored the small boat just off Lizard Island. I put on my gear and slipped into the warm water. I glided on the water examining the ocean bottom of pure white powder, noting it was void of any plant life. Suddenly, as though a theater curtain parted, the set emerged. The reef appeared with all its glorious color. I was amazed at how much there was to see, and in my mind I kept hearing (like the old Frankenstein movie) “Its Alive Its Alive”. I had to inspect the same area over and over many times to comprehend and understand what I was seeing. Everything was breathing in and out to and fro. The reef around Lizard Island is famous for its soft corals and giant clams. Some of the coral has shapes like giant planter pots and were filled with sand. On top of the sand are many colorful sea critters, small clams and starfish. The giant clams have grayish-black outer shells, but the inside of the clams all vary in vivid color, like blue, orange, purple.

We had to look carefully to get a glimpse of Nemo, and he did live in a beautifully colored house, however many his colorful friends were out and about. The ship had supplied us with a chart of all the local fish and we discovered just about all of them. The reef is home to 400 species of Coral, 1500 species of fish, and 500 species of seaweed, a true snorkel and diving paradise. If you are very quiet and other snorkelers are not around you can hear the fish chewing on the coral, they eat it, pass it, and that creates the soft powdery white sand on the ocean bottom.

We were fortunate to be snorkeling off Lizard Island; it is a designated National Park and home to a Marine Research center. The only other place on the island is very private exclusive resort, operated by Qantas Airlines and cost $4500.00 per person for a 5-night stay. Most visitors to the reef stay in Cairns or maybe Hamilton Island.

Seeing this magnificent reef was worth the inconvenience of the long flight over. I have snorkeled many places in the world, never has the under water world been so beautiful, so alive. If you are traveling to that part of the world be sure and go in search of Nemo for your self.